Is there a thread on, or includes within it something on rotors for d's?
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Thread: Is there a thread on, or includes within it something on rotors for d's?

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    Default Is there a thread on, or includes within it something on rotors for d's?

    Want better quality material than the ones on it at the moment.

    Cheers.

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    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

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    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    If by 'better material' you mean steel hardness, I believe the steel was softer on lift up door handle cars.
    What's wrong with the discs you currently have on the car?
    Perhaps they're non genuine or perhaps when they were fitted, the runout wasn't checked properly?

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    The quality went south after the 69 model;years ago I sourced a 69set for the 21,all good.

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    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    Looking at them and comparing them to the km the car has traveled they must have been replaced not too long (km wise) before we purchased it as there is no wear lip what-so-ever, and they are very thick indicating no machining. They were fine until July last year when we came back down from the Lakes in Tassie down the looong hill. They started to vibrate/pulse indicating that cementite reaction that occurs on cheaper rotors. Ever since it's just getting worse and worse. I'd say they are non genuine, maybe a cheap knock off. I'm hoping there are rotors made of better quality steel being made. (Carbon ceramics maybe I hope so I can do stops from 300km/h)
    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

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    Chris, I gather that that issue responds to machining (until the next time its induced anyway).

    cheers! Peter

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cvg View Post
    Chris, I gather that that issue responds to machining (until the next time its induced anyway).

    cheers! Peter
    Shouldn't have to Pete, they shouldn't get that build up, and especially from only moderate braking. It first began that day last year up the lakes. I was hoping rotors may have been investigated by others already. Lance Collins states it is a problem I was hoping there was more than one manufacturer.
    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

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    Have you done any checks on the runout with a dial gauge or pointer to confirm distortion? Mounts OK and the caliper bolts tight? The bolts have a torque, but 'FT', done with the brakes applied hard to centre everything has been suggested as on recipe for setting up. With so many cars built, there would have to be a selection of suppliers if you go digging.

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    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    It was fine for 6 months or more until we came down the big hill, plus I've drven many cars with cheap rotors that did it from hard braking.
    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I have noticed Tar-Ox reckon they do a range of "to spec" rotors for odd cars; the English website is a bit clunky in places - maybe email them or call?
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    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Brake judder can be caused by contaminated brake pads. Is the radiator drain hose present so that coolant overboard doesn't dribble on the pads?
    D rotors are horrifically difficult to get true using a standard automotive brake lathe. A larger lathe for trucks and bus drums and discs is the ticket to getting them true.
    If the park brake pads are set too tight, you can cook a rotor: cooked rotors a rare in a 5 main DS for the most part.

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I honestly thought it was the rotors' metallurgy which was deficient in repop items, was sure one of the perfectionists had tales of them refusing to stay true even after Blanchard grinding.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daffyduck View Post
    Brake judder can be caused by contaminated brake pads. Is the radiator drain hose present so that coolant overboard doesn't dribble on the pads?
    D rotors are horrifically difficult to get true using a standard automotive brake lathe. A larger lathe for trucks and bus drums and discs is the ticket to getting them true.
    If the park brake pads are set too tight, you can cook a rotor: cooked rotors a rare in a 5 main DS for the most part.
    Good points, Chris, also check you don't have LHM leaking past the piston seals onto the pads.
    With the banning of asbestos in the manufacture of brake pads, sourcing a reliable supplier for replacements is as important as for discs.

    Maybe you need this factory tool. . .



    Cheers
    Chris
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Is there a thread on, or includes within it something on rotors for d's?-brake-grinding.jpg  
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

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    Since the banning of asbestos it seems that rotors in all makes of cars appear to wear out at about 100K or less in some. Guess that asbestos is soft and current pads are harder than they used to be which would explain it. Discs also get hotter now than they used to do. Now you seem to have pay for replacement rotors or disc pads much earlier than we are used to. Manufacturers also appear to allow for less wear on the rotors before they demand replacement. Join the club Chris !

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    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    First thing I did when I bought it was add extra an extra length to run it behind the rotor. Doesn't appear to be any LHM leaking onto them either. I don't care about wear, just the severe juddering. I've noticed that Citroworld sell some also, way more expensive than Der Franzose and if I knew which ones were on this car I'd buy the others, the extra cost isn't that much over the length of time they'll now last. Thanks all.
    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

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    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Even the newly made rotors for the DS and SM should be skimmed before installation. I don't know if it is because they get warped in shipping or if they have been on the shelf too long before we buy them. So budget for that before you tear into the project.

    As an aside to metallurgy here, the cars were delivered with hardened rotors at the beginning up to the first few years of 5 main production. I know that 66-68 parts cars nearly always yield a set of hardened rotors. You can't hardly cook them and they never wear out. I think the change to softer metal came about the same time as the big valve head. I know the DOT here in the USA wanted "consumable" parts so the manufacturers could sell more product. I mean, who would want a car where parts didn't wear out? And you certainly cannot have oil in the brake system. This led to the softer rotors which do tend to last forever only if the car receives a period caliper overhaul and the parking brakes aren't abused.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lasya View Post
    First thing I did when I bought it was add extra an extra length to run it behind the rotor. Doesn't appear to be any LHM leaking onto them either. I don't care about wear, just the severe juddering. I've noticed that Citroworld sell some also, way more expensive than Der Franzose and if I knew which ones were on this car I'd buy the others, the extra cost isn't that much over the length of time they'll now last. Thanks all.
    Make contact with Darrin at Citroen Classics UK, they not only sell parts but actually work on the cars. Darrin often states on his website his opinion of the parts available for sale. That is to say, he has first hand experience with the various suppliers and will honestly rate parts.

    With regard to the pads, have your removed and inspected for traces of LHM? Not always obvious on a cursory inspection without removal - the symptom is most noticeable when coming to a standstill, a shudder and growling sound.

    Cheers
    Chris
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    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    I've sent an email to Darrin, thanks Chris.

    Of course I'd like these machined, but this is a problem with them mounted inboard.....

    I've heard someone made a jig that could do them on-car. Is this true anyone? How hard is it to make one?

    Thanks,
    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    tear em out! its a pain in the arse but that would be easier than trying to sort them on the car SURELY?
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