Process for firing up a new engine
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Thread: Process for firing up a new engine

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Big Frog's Avatar
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    Default Process for firing up a new engine

    Hi all,
    Many thanks to date for advice and even parts in getting my freshly rebuilt engine into the car.
    Now the first starting is looming and any tips for the process would be appreciated.
    I'm mindful of lubrication being swiftly applied, so things like pre priming the weber carb bowls, setting up the new 123 ignition properly, etc
    As much of the hydraulics are new, overhauled pump, overhauled steering rack and brakes have been rebuilt and all need bleeding, so I thought I would leave the belts off the pump until the engine running is sorted.The engine has new pistons, rings and sleeves (2100) and is a manual transmission.
    New radiator will have a stocking in the top hose and the weber carb has the threaded fuel barb ( thanks Richo).Engine oil is penrite breaking in type, as supplied by the engine rebuilder
    Any tips or experiences very welcome
    Steve

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    Last edited by Big Frog; 27th March 2016 at 05:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I'll add my usual opinion on ignition for first start. Unless you know the system is working, get it firing on a points distributor. Then change over.

    Lot of people disagree with this but I see it as eliminating an unquantified item for the critical stage.

    You could also prime the carby and fuel pump output lines by gravity feeding, on many cars the suction side of the fuel pump can be a siphonic setup once all air is purged.

    With all these items done and a little ether spray it should arc up almost immediately.
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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    I always crank with starter, without ignition and plugs fitted until full oil pressure is attained.
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    1000+ Posts bluey504's Avatar
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    You can check the timing by setting up the timing light etc but leaving out the spark plugs. This allows the engine to turn over so it pumps oil around without a compression load.
    Timing is, obviously checked with a grounded number one plug. Use suitable insulating gloves to avoid naughty words issuing.
    And everything else Addo said.


    Brendan.
    ps Pretty much as per Robmac as well, your call.
    Last edited by bluey504; 27th March 2016 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Robmac types faster.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Big Frog's Avatar
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    Process for firing up a new engine-img_20160327_155553%7E2.jpgAttachment 82299
    The car is going together with a different alternator (checked out by auto elec), and the existing non original regulator. But I have little in the way of wiring to go in-between.
    Dizzy to the coil / resistor is OK
    Big cable from + terminal on ALT to + on battery
    But the rest I'm guessing.
    Cheers
    Steve
    Last edited by Big Frog; 27th March 2016 at 10:40 PM.

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Maybe, because you've just admitted more unknowns, consider starting and running it first off the battery alone, just make a temporary harness. Then introduce other elements.

    It give you a basis for knowing the "bare bones" are all good.
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    Fellow Frogger! Big Frog's Avatar
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    Hi Addo
    Somewhere in my lizard brain - I recall that the alt shouldn't be spun without being hooked up.
    And without belts - no water pump, this is causing me to wait
    Cheers
    Steve
    Last edited by Big Frog; 27th March 2016 at 09:30 PM.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Frog View Post
    Hi Addo
    Somewhere in my lizard brain - I recall that the alt shouldn't be spun without being booked up.
    And without belts - no water pump, this is causing me to wait
    Cheers
    Steve
    You won't do any harm to a correctly wired alternator if you power it up without a drive belt.

    I would not run an engine without a working water pump.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Hello, have a fire extinguisher to hand. Be ready for lots of smoke from the manifolds. Keep it on a fast tick-over (2000prm ?) for twenty minutes unless something disastrous is happening. Employ or press-gang the services of a 'boy' to keep their eyes peeled for leaks, puddles, flames etc. Make sure your battery is fully charged. Make sure the throttles close fully. Know which lead to pull off the coil to kill the engine.

    Have fun

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    Fellow Frogger! Big Frog's Avatar
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    There is a man in North America, who has equal parts of copper,solder and flux flowing in his veins that can solve my wiring dilemma.
    Awake HRE !
    Attachment 82305

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Frog View Post
    There is a man in North America, who has equal parts of copper,solder and flux flowing in his veins that can solve my wiring dilemma.
    Awake HRE !
    Attachment 82305
    He may not look into this thread, maybe a PM to Bill directly. See if you can identify both the regulator and alternator, it will help with his advice. . .

    Cheers
    Chris
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    First startup?
    Patience with the patient!

    Have a good helper on hand.
    Have a fire extinguisher on hand.

    Valve cover off.
    Plug wires on.

    Fire in the hole.

    Once she is running, eyes on top and bottom watching for leaks.

    No leaks?
    Observe all 8 valve rocker arms looking for correct oil flow.

    All oiling? Shut her down. Let her cool off.
    Install valve cover and air cleaner.

    If all is well, you will still have lots to do. Just be patient. I hope your patient sings to you with the siren sound that only a tight D motor makes. Fresh ones really do make a sound like a distant siren.

    Vary the engine speeds for the first 100km or so while the rings are seating. Retorque cylinder head, adjust valves and change the motor oil between 400 and 600 miles. At this time it is also wise to check lots of other things. Particularly the 6 large nuts on each axle hub.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    And do not put synthetic oil in it until after she has run for a few thousand klicks.

  14. #14
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Frog View Post
    There is a man in North America, who has equal parts of copper,solder and flux flowing in his veins that can solve my wiring dilemma.
    Awake HRE !
    Attachment 82305
    And much like Betelgeuse, you cuss at me three times and I eventually roll out of bed.

    An alternator that isn't hooked up is just an inert object. What you don't want to do is hook a working, "hot' regulator to it without the battery connection made. That pops diodes and causes heat damage.

    What brand of an alternator are we seeing here? The "I-A-S-F" order on your diagram tells me you're using a Ford alt.
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    Fellow Frogger! Big Frog's Avatar
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    Hi HRE,
    Thanks for your reply.
    The alternator is branded Ducellier
    Terminals are
    Spade connector marked Exc
    Nut marked +
    Nut marked -
    Nut marked Ind

    Cheers

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! Big Frog's Avatar
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    As the alt and reg are still to be sorted, I took Addo's suggestion and proceeded with just power to the coil.
    Fired up first go, rocker cover off and oil circulating, fire extinguisher not required, no leaks apart from a slow weep at the top hose on water pump, just needed a tighten. The exhaust heat shields that had been painted with heat resistant paint smoked up a bit, but all else all good. Even the 123 ignition played the game by following the supplied booklet.
    Next - rocker cover on, sort out the wiring, and then reinstall the hydraulic pump and bleed the brakes etc.
    Not forgetting to do up the big bolts on the brake calipers with pressure applied - what could possibly go wrong.!
    Thanks for the helpful tips
    Cheers
    Steve

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! Big Frog's Avatar
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    Rest easy, a trip to my local Auto Electrical guy has solved my wiring issue with the alternator and ext reg.
    thanks
    Steve

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