CX Rustproofing - how to and where
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Thread: CX Rustproofing - how to and where

  1. #1
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    Default CX Rustproofing - how to and where

    Now that that my CX is going to be free of rust with plates welded in I was looking for information on all the areas that need to be fish oiled and how to go about it.
    Any pitfalls or hidden areas that people know of ?
    Do I spray inside the doors and open up the drain holes with drill ?
    where are the most important areas and are there any hidden spots ?

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    thankyou in advance...............Wayne

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayneb View Post
    Now that that my CX is going to be free of rust with plates welded in ...
    There's your first problem. No rust holes means the water can't escape!

    Aside from the usual door and bootlid bottoms and the bonnet corners, in our market they are good at rusting in:
    * front body crossmember
    * Base of a-post - triple skinned.
    * Door tops where perforated for clips.
    * Bottom of front guard
    * Around the battery tray, especially through the guard.
    * Inside base of the A-pillar
    * Where the stainless sill trims are screwed on.
    * The bottom of the tail light mount panels.
    * Where the door intrusion bars were added to the doors - front of the door frame is a good one.

    Fish Oil tends to dry a bit scaly, so you may be better to look at something like Bilt-Hambler products such as Dynax. The crowd that sells POR paint import it.

  3. #3
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    or the readily available tectyl wax (as used by "EndRust" of yore). It's available in spray cans from paint shops & I use it (& fishoil) to keep my Moke structurally sound.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    Lanolin oil is another good product to spray in.
    Mine

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    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    A 50/50 mix of diesel and fisholene also works a treat. The diesel creeps all over the internal cavities, taking the fisholene with it. You'll no doubt have seen diesel utes with diesel creeping down the sides where it's been spilled at the bowser. You'll even see it weep out of seams eventually.....just wipe the excess off. I did all the lower regions of my '69 'bay window' Kombi back in about 1990. None of the areas treated have rusted since. I also did my 1959 Hillman Minx when I did a heap of rust repairs to it in '92.......those areas haven't rusted since either. My Fiat 850 Sport went through the 2011 floods in Brisbane (before I bought it)....right over the roof!! It's been done in diesel and fisholene too and I'm confident it'll be just fine too.

  6. #6
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    It's always comforting to have the faint hint of fishoil in your car on that first hot day of summer, just to remind yourself you did the deed! It has always completely confused the local cats too.

    Cheers
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    JohnW

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    Hindsight is wonderful, rust proofing 30-40 years ago would be my choice!
    The worst rust I saw in mine was at the bottom corners of the windscreen.

  8. #8
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbwadley View Post
    Hindsight is wonderful, rust proofing 30-40 years ago would be my choice!
    The worst rust I saw in mine was at the bottom corners of the windscreen.
    I did actually. Drenchings with fishoil in the late 1960s for the Renault 4CV and mid-1970s for the R8. Foul smell for months but it worked well.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  9. #9
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    I just wouldn't recommend drilling if you can get away without it. It just gives that nice fresh steel edge to commence new rusting.


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    For the where part of rustproofing

    1. Bottom and top of all doors
    2. Remove light switches in door openings, spray liberally above and below
    3. B pillar also has a rubber bung to get access
    4. Rubber bung at back of front guard, remove and spray
    5. Rubber bung at front of rear guard gives access to the sill. I think there is one at the rear of the front guard that gives access to the sill too
    6. Rear guards, spray inside top liberally.
    7. Remove trim beside windscreen, holes there will let you spray into windscreen frame both sides.
    8. Boot and bonnet. Spray in all box sections, protect engine and boot carpet from drips.
    9. PS front guard under battery. You will have no problem there if you use a fully sealed battery like an Optima battery.
    10. Rubber bung under car at front of front footwell. Remove and spray liberally. Make sure both sides have a rubber bung to stop water getting into the triangular box section here.

    In CXs that are well maintained the places to watch are bottom rear of front guards. Leaves and road debris find there way in here and can't escape. Causes rust in front guard and bottom of A pillar. Bottom of doors also but that is easier to fix.

    There is no need to drill holes. there are rubber bungs in lots of places, at least in my 1983 Prestige.
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  11. #11
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    In my experience the paint quality inside the windscreen rubber channel is not very thick at the base of the A pillar. Water collects behind the rubber and the rust attacks through the paint's porosities. Attention to an adequate film thickness can do a lot to prevent A pillar rust. It obviously also helps to get a good coating of rust preventative product inside the A pillar when the internal trim panel is removed.
    When fitting the stainless trim on the lower body sills a small dab of Sikaflex or alternatively a small soft rubber washer will prevent moisture attacking the edges of the screw holes. Use stainless screws. Again the paint quality is an issue on the sills and rust can appear where the edged of the stainless trim chafe through the paint film.
    Any one who has stripped an early CX back to metal will realise just how poor the paint really is. There is nearly always moisture cobwebbing on the metal surface once the paint is removed!
    Cheers Gerry

  12. #12
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    Well I am glad I joined this forum when I bought the car.....so much information available
    Thankyou for all your contributions and all information will be used.
    The CX might now last another 40years.

    Cheers Wayne Barrett

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