How do I clean the LHM reservoir?
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Thread: How do I clean the LHM reservoir?

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Default How do I clean the LHM reservoir?

    Hello, whilst I am taking the engine out, most of the brackets etc are being sandblasted and powder coated.

    What about the LHM tank?

    Once empty, should I rinse it out with say, petrol?

    Are there any moving parts at the bottom?

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    What is the consensus on blasting, zinc coating and powder coating? Or should I sand it down, wipe clean with cellulose thinners and get the paintbrush out?

    Thanks

    Peter

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, whilst I am taking the engine out, most of the brackets etc are being sandblasted and powder coated.

    What about the LHM tank?

    Once empty, should I rinse it out with say, petrol?

    Are there any moving parts at the bottom?

    What is the consensus on blasting, zinc coating and powder coating? Or should I sand it down, wipe clean with cellulose thinners and get the paintbrush out?

    Thanks

    Peter
    Cleaning it out is an excellent idea, just make sure you get it all. I can't see any reason why you can't use petrol, although kerosene or white spirit will be a little safer. Ensure it's completely dry before you put it back in service.

    No moving parts, but several tubes inside that aren't removable. Make absolutely sure that you replace the return lines back to the port they came from. I would NOT sandblast the can- way too much of a chance to get blasting element inside. You might be able to get away with zinc plating with all of the plastic removed. Hand refinishing would be safest. You'll likely need some sort of surface prep solvent anyway because of the years of LHM soaking into the metal.
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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Clean the can thoroughly as possible with a solvent, after removing all extraneous fittings. Now cut a slot neatly in the top, about 50mm long by 5mm across. Drop in a half dozen 10 and 20p coins.

    Now take the can to busy places and shake it vigorously in front of people who look generous. Pretty soon you should have enough money for a new reservoir.

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    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Clean the can thoroughly as possible with a solvent, after removing all extraneous fittings. Now cut a slot neatly in the top, about 50mm long by 5mm across. Drop in a half dozen 10 and 20p coins.

    Now take the can to busy places and shake it vigorously in front of people who look generous. Pretty soon you should have enough money for a new reservoir.

    Oh, you are a card!

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    JBN
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    If the LHM tank is from a CX or BX, the most important thing when cleaning them is BE CAREFUL. The metal is razor sharp and carelessly cleaning an LHM tank can nearly result in slit wrists.

    If it is a CX, there are many other good reasons to slit your wrists, so just don't opt for the easiest one.

    John
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Clean the can thoroughly as possible with a solvent, after removing all extraneous fittings. Now cut a slot neatly in the top, about 50mm long by 5mm across. Drop in a half dozen 10 and 20p coins.

    Now take the can to busy places and shake it vigorously in front of people who look generous. Pretty soon you should have enough money for a new reservoir.
    Bahahaha!!! I laughed out loud too, when I read this. Gold.

    I gave one of mine a good clean out a while back. I removed all the plumbing, of course, and emptied as much LHM out of it as I could, and then gave it a good wipe inside with clean flannellette rag. I imagine cotton/linen would be just as good. After I wiped it all out, I splashed some clean LHM in there (didn't need much) and then gave it all another good going over with more clean rag, pushing the rag through the nooks and crannies, and it came up a treat. It was TERRIBLE before I started....the inside was black. But it came up nice and clean just by giving it a good wipe out.
    I cleaned the screens that fit in the top with petrol and compressed air. The inside of the screen was the most difficult as there was alot of black muck in the nooks and crannies that proved pretty difficult to get at with what I was using at the time.....an old toothbrush, from memory. Swishing it around in a tub of petrol helped. Then I blew the parts dry and let them dry further in the sun, which only took a couple of minutes.
    I gave the outside of the reservoir a good wipe too, but the green paint on this one was in quite good nick still......or maybe it was just so filthy that I was impressed enough to just SEE the green paint again after removing all the crud. Either way, the improvement was such that I just left it as it was and it still looks 100% better, back where it's meant to be, with the tank, hoses, filters, gauge etc all cleaned up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    If the LHM tank is from a CX or BX, the most important thing when cleaning them is BE CAREFUL. The metal is razor sharp and carelessly cleaning an LHM tank can nearly result in slit wrists.

    If it is a CX, there are many other good reasons to slit your wrists, so just don't opt for the easiest one.

    John
    ABSOLUTELY!! Wow, I forgot about that. VERY EASY TO DO when you have your hands inside wiping it out with a rag!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Clean the can thoroughly as possible with a solvent, after removing all extraneous fittings. Now cut a slot neatly in the top, about 50mm long by 5mm across. Drop in a half dozen 10 and 20p coins.

    Now take the can to busy places and shake it vigorously in front of people who look generous. Pretty soon you should have enough money for a new reservoir.
    Now this is what I like about AF, helpful advice mixed in with good humor (or humour depending on which side the ditch you're from).

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Doesnt' he own a CX Just lift the center out of the reseviour, fish out the nylon disc from the base of it (careful of the sharp edges) and give everthing including the filter a good clean in petrol. If your pulling the engine out, replace the "octopus" of return lines behind the engine

    seeya,
    Shane L
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    Hello, sorry, forgot to say it's a DSuper5, 1974, left hand drive....

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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Doesnt' he own a CX Just lift the center out of the reseviour, fish out the nylon disc from the base of it (careful of the sharp edges) and give everthing including the filter a good clean in petrol. If your pulling the engine out, replace the "octopus" of return lines behind the engine

    seeya,
    Shane L
    No Shane, Peter is working on a DS. . .

    With my own, I used diesel through a Kero Gun which uses compressed air to supply the solvent under pressure. Similar to this chappy. . . Blast from above and below.
    Steel Kero Engine Cleaning Gun 1.0 Ltr - www.westernfilters.net

    I would be wary of powder coating, isn't there a fair bit of heat involved in the curing process 200 degrees?

    Cheers
    Chris
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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Now this is what I like about AF, helpful advice mixed in with good humor (or humour depending on which side the ditch you're from).
    You had it right the first time.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  13. #13
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBlood View Post
    No Shane, Peter is working on a DS. . .

    With my own, I used diesel through a Kero Gun which uses compressed air to supply the solvent under pressure. Similar to this chappy. . . Blast from above and below.
    Steel Kero Engine Cleaning Gun 1.0 Ltr - www.westernfilters.net

    I would be wary of powder coating, isn't there a fair bit of heat involved in the curing process 200 degrees?

    Cheers
    Chris
    Powder coating is a great finish, but yah, the curing temps are quite high. Same with a hot zinc dip. You would need to ensure any nylon or plastic is removed. I don't know if the internal return pipes are steel or nylon. If they're nylon, hand refinishing is your only option.

    On a plus note, you can get rubber stopper corks in useful sizes from any science supply house. You might even be able to scare up enough for cleaning and painting amongst the cognoscenti here.

    I just wanted to use the word "cognoscenti".
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    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, sorry, forgot to say it's a DSuper5, 1974, left hand drive....
    The low pressure return ports to the can are extremely fragile these days. Often, so much as looking at them is enough to cause the soldered seal joints to perish.
    I would clean out/up the can, scuff off the paint on the return line joints and introduce some new solder to them using a pencil torch with a low temperature flame.
    Otherwise, you stand a good chance of breaking the joints when you go to reinstall the can.

  15. #15
    UFO
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    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Oh, you are a card!
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    Hello, I checked with the powder coating company and the temperatures involved would melt the solder.

    Once I'd drained the tank, I could see the black sludge. Two lots of petrol later it was clean. Then into the degreaser and finally into the sink (SWMBO was out). I dried the insides with a splash of acetone.

    I had rubbed down the tank with wet and dry whilst it was in the degreaser so next it's rattle can primer.

    Really, I'm just putting off the final steps to getting the engine out, I might polish the ashtrays next

    Peter
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