citroen ds 20. 1972 ; how to remove roof.
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Thread: citroen ds 20. 1972 ; how to remove roof.

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default citroen ds 20. 1972 ; how to remove roof.

    G'day all. Just bought my first DS, and this is my first post here on Aussie frogs, so please be gentle.
    I have some rust on the frame above the windscreen and would like to remove the roof to repair this. I have removed the 17 bolts that hold the roof on, and I dont know where to go from here. Do I need to take out the front or rear screens or the rear indicators, or dig out the rubber roof seal/ mastic seal , or any of the chrome roof surrounds before attempting the lift...? Any help greatly appreciated

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  2. #2
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    No need to touch screens.

    Remove the chrome pieces. The front pieces are held by screws, one for the small centre piece and one at the back of the A pillars for the side pieces. The screws are pozidriv not phillips so try to use a pozidriv screwdriver. Note the four little diagonal notches not present in phillips screws. The chrome pieces all just lever out (carefully!). The trumpets are trickier. Pull out the indicator lights and you will see a fastener inside (a nut), which can be rusted up so be gentle. There might be another posidriv screw somewhere as well; I can't remember.

    Then just get inside and push up, starting in the corners. If it won't move, someone might have glued it in. If so you will need to run a piece of piano wire around it to break the seal. The glued roofs are supposed to have only five bolts.

    And while you are at it, marvel at the different fasteners holding down the roof.

    Roger

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    Fellow Frogger!
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    Additionally, if you have not done so already, download repair manual 814 Vols 1 and 2 from here: https://sites.google.com/site/citroenpublicationslist/. You are going to need them

    Steve
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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi Gav
    You only need to remove the Trumpets as described above.You may wish to remove the front S/S bits if you have rust to fix.(Plus the screen come to that) But definitely leave the side pieces in place unless repairs are necessary.I usually lever off the roof starting from the rear,but be gentle and slow!
    Woody

  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    Thats just perfect Roger, Thank you.

  6. #6
    Tadpole
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    And Thank You Too Woody.

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    And You Citrofan..
    Currently downloading 814 volume 1
    I'll let you all know how I get on..............ribbet...

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    This is a '72 so is probably bonded into place ( so the levering may be stiff !! ) as well as bolted down. No doubt others will reply. There will also be rust at the base of the structure that the rear screen fits into, so when you remove the trumpets and the roof go a bit further and remove the aluminium finisher panels and the boot lid hinges to see. The single lower bolt for the boot hinge is accessed from underneath above the wheel. Be gentle as the bolt is embedded into a light polished casting.

    The roof structure has a steel beading around the edge and that is all, so application of force more "inboard" will damage the fibreglass. The roof frames all seem to rust from the screw that secures the small central finishing strip at the top front of the roof. A good idea to remove the pillar finishers too as the front pillars are "hollow" and can also rust at their bases. DSs are rust traps ( and were never really given anything other than a cursory spray of paint ( I have seen door pillars insides for example that were plain bright metal, ie BARE !!! )

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Go to the post called "barn find" scroll to the second page, put on sunglasses, and see how it should have been done !

  10. #10
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    There's nothing like the feeling of "Yes, got the roof off " ............................... Closely followed by " Where did all that rust come from ...... How the hell do I fix that ..... ".....

    seeya
    Shane L.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger
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    I'd be tempted to refit the 17 bolts and apply more sealant! Do you really want/need to know how much rust can be hiding in there?

    With the later bonded roof, how have others addressed the issue of the side strips? They have to come off to re-bond the roof as the finishing strip is secured by them. The metal is thin and soft, so easily damaged, but removing them is not so bad. Refitting is the problem. Is there supposed to be a simple way to refit them? You certainly have to leave enough of a gap around the roof rail edge to allow for the new rubber finisher. Trying to compress that and then pull the strip around behind the step in the underside of the roof rail is not the trivial job it should be. It's easy to have the strips 'open' and become loose on the underside. Any thoughts? It was one of the worst aspects of dealing with the roof, but there must be a trick to it or it could never have been easily assembled at the factory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    I'd be tempted to refit the 17 bolts and apply more sealant! Do you really want/need to know how much rust can be hiding in there?

    With the later bonded roof, how have others addressed the issue of the side strips? They have to come off to re-bond the roof as the finishing strip is secured by them. The metal is thin and soft, so easily damaged, but removing them is not so bad. Refitting is the problem. Is there supposed to be a simple way to refit them? You certainly have to leave enough of a gap around the roof rail edge to allow for the new rubber finisher. Trying to compress that and then pull the strip around behind the step in the underside of the roof rail is not the trivial job it should be. It's easy to have the strips 'open' and become loose on the underside. Any thoughts? It was one of the worst aspects of dealing with the roof, but there must be a trick to it or it could never have been easily assembled at the factory.
    I read a post about 12 months ago that considered and explained all these points David S, but of course can't remember where it was now.... Someone out there will know!
    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

  13. #13
    Tadpole
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    Ok , Yes, the roof is off. No drama. There was some adhesive or something, holding it down. Probably should have bought some piano wire but instead just gave a good push, starting in the rear corners from inside, and it started peeling away.
    It came off exactly as described.
    Really wasn't a lot of rust there though, and probably didn't need to take it off.

    some pics;





    Last edited by gavinmlane; 27th October 2015 at 02:23 AM. Reason: pics

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinmlane View Post
    Ok , Yes, the roof is off. No drama. There was some adhesive or something, holding it down. Probably should have bought some piano wire but instead just gave a good push, starting in the rear corners from inside, and it started peeling away.
    It came off exactly as described.
    Really wasn't a lot of rust there though, and probably didn't need to take it off.

    some pics;





    You have done well. How to prevent future corrosion is the obvious question now. I have become a believer in Lanotec. Worth a bit of research. The spray cans are available at Repco. The stuff seeps and penetrates and on my boat trailers sticks better ( adheres ) than the petroleum based products. I used to use Tectyl. Lanotec also doesn't harm rubber components. I would be inclined to really saturate the center of the roof frame above the rubber and let the stuff percolate down inside the A pillars .. and the C pillar as well. It would appear you have been lucky and the car has been kept dry for most of its life. No doubt Shane will contribute about DS left in paddocks or under trees for lengthy rests. Peel off the rear quarter headrest trims under the trumpets...hopefully the rear screen framework will be just as dry and solid. If so saturate, saturate and saturate some more. All the slimy stuff can do is track and trickle and dribble out somewhere. Now is the time to access it.

  15. #15
    Tadpole
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    Was planning on cutting out and replacing that rail above the screen Frizelhund. Although the top of the rail looks ok, the channel underneath, that the screen rubber pushes up into, is crusty and has holed.
    We don't have Repco here, but I believe there are supliers of Lanotec. I'll look into it.

  16. #16
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    Good work.

    If you can't find Lanotec, look for something else based on lanolin. Sheep are good for things other than wool and meat, you know!

    How is the headlining? Now is the time to replace it.

    Roger

  17. #17
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinmlane View Post
    Ok , Yes, the roof is off. No drama. There was some adhesive or something, holding it down. Probably should have bought some piano wire but instead just gave a good push, starting in the rear corners from inside, and it started peeling away.
    It came off exactly as described.
    Really wasn't a lot of rust there though, and probably didn't need to take it off.

    some pics;





    That's a really good roof frame. My fathers '74 -> '75 build ( ) car is completely rotten in the roof rail. Though the rest of the car is very good. it has some weird "insulation" like tape around the sides of the roof rail... that trapped and held water for decades.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! Lasya's Avatar
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    Be careful there with a lanolin based product, it will wash out eventually, and adhesives/sealants would not adhere as properly as they should. Zinc rich rust converter/quality primer etc would be safer.
    Gillian and Chris

    74 D Special, and now a 74 Pallas 23 5 speed with air(maybe). And now a Cactus!

    Oh, and a Holden.

    Lasya, Tibetan goddess of the moon and beauty who carries a mirror.

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    You were only meant to blow the bloody doors off.

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