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Thread: Help..!!

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Icon5 Help..!!

    Hi Froggies,
    I've nearly got the steering rack out. The only hitch is that there is an exhaust guard plate that's attached somehow to the rack, which has to be removed first, then the pipes disconnected...then remove the rack.
    I can't see how this plate is connected at all. I can't see how to disconnect it either. It holds three hp pipes in a rubber holder...and if I can't undo it I'm stuck.
    I've put a pin in the pinion to stop it from turning, I've undone many almost impossible nylock nuts, and now this has me stumped. The HAYNES manual just says "undo the exhaust guard plate"....but says nothing about HOW. There is a wire clip of some type, but I can't see how to unclip it. The end of the clip is inaccessible.
    I'm so close, but I can't yet figure out how to get this thing off.
    Any ideas , other than call in a mechanic, would be very greatfully accepted.
    I cannot get under the car either because I have it safely supported underneath...which stops me getting under there.
    Cheers...George 1/8th.

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    Last edited by George 1/8th; 23rd March 2004 at 10:06 PM.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger
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    George,

    You'll have to get under it to gain adequate access to the shield and hydraulic connections for the rack - I don't see how else you could do it.

    Support the car with stands located under the reinforced steel section of the underframe on either side just below the bottom front suspension arms. Make sure you support the rear or at the very least chock the rear wheels since the handbrake is on the front wheels!!

    I forget exactly how the shield is attached, but I suspect it is some sort of spring clip that slips over one long rod that holds the rack extension together. Presumably no bolts holding it in. Slide it to the side and push it forward to see if it comes free. I recall it was much harder to get it back in than to remove it - often the case actually - so note where and how it is attached carefully.

    David

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger
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    Further point ... Make sure you have something to catch the LHM when you remove the pipes and something suitable to cap the pipe ends - it can get a bit messy for you under there courtesy of our old friend gravity!

  4. #4
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    George,

    mate what are you doing

    You supposed to ONLY pull the car apart if it's 1st sitting on a 4pole hoist (so that you have access to everything)

    BTW: Anyone want to lend me a 4post hoist

    Seriously chuck a big trolley jack under each front corner (where it's strong and the suspension mounts) and move your axle stands so they allow you access. DO NOT support a CX from both front jacking points unless you have a full tank of fuel. They EASILY tilt forwards off the stands if you do this (several of us know this from experiance !!!).

    I ended up making myself a dirty big set of ramps, I don't even dream of disabling a car until it's perched up on the ramps. It even makes things like changing the rear Xantia spheres incredibly easy --You just sit under it and remove the hydractive & anti-sink spheres.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S
    George,

    You'll have to get under it to gain adequate access to the shield and hydraulic connections for the rack - I don't see how else you could do it.

    Support the car with stands located under the reinforced steel section of the underframe on either side just below the bottom front suspension arms. Make sure you support the rear or at the very least chock the rear wheels since the handbrake is on the front wheels!!

    I forget exactly how the shield is attached, but I suspect it is some sort of spring clip that slips over one long rod that holds the rack extension together. Presumably no bolts holding it in. Slide it to the side and push it forward to see if it comes free. I recall it was much harder to get it back in than to remove it - often the case actually - so note where and how it is attached carefully.

    David
    Thanks David, I'll have to re-arrange some things so I can do this. Cheers..George.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    George,

    mate what are you doing

    You supposed to ONLY pull the car apart if it's 1st sitting on a 4pole hoist (so that you have access to everything)

    BTW: Anyone want to lend me a 4post hoist

    Seriously chuck a big trolley jack under each front corner (where it's strong and the suspension mounts) and move your axle stands so they allow you access. DO NOT support a CX from both front jacking points unless you have a full tank of fuel. They EASILY tilt forwards off the stands if you do this (several of us know this from experiance !!!).

    I ended up making myself a dirty big set of ramps, I don't even dream of disabling a car until it's perched up on the ramps. It even makes things like changing the rear Xantia spheres incredibly easy --You just sit under it and remove the hydractive & anti-sink spheres.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Thanks for the info Shane, I might have been killed!
    I would not have known about needing a full tank to stop the car rolling forward and off the axle stands if the jack points are used. I would not put axle stands at the jacking points anyway.
    The engine / gearbox is above and forward of the front axle, so what you say makes sense.
    I'll have to get a trolley jack from somewhere, and change the support method. At present I'm using 2 medium sized ramps and a large chunk of redgum under the front subframe to hold it all up, but this does not give me room to get in under it.
    Whatever I do, I'll have to be very careful. I dont like getting under cars much anyway.
    Cheers....George.

  7. #7
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by George 1/8th
    Thanks for the info Shane, I might have been killed!
    I would not have known about needing a full tank to stop the car rolling forward and off the axle stands if the jack points are used. I would not put axle stands at the jacking points anyway.
    The engine / gearbox is above and forward of the front axle, so what you say makes sense.
    I'll have to get a trolley jack from somewhere, and change the support method. At present I'm using 2 medium sized ramps and a large chunk of redgum under the front subframe to hold it all up, but this does not give me room to get in under it.
    Whatever I do, I'll have to be very careful. I dont like getting under cars much anyway.
    Cheers....George.
    Hi George,

    do you mean a length of redgum, or a big lump of firewood like I used to use (in the same way as jack stands). The subframe that runs across the front isn't designed to take the weight of the car. A lot I've seen are bend from poeple trying to lift the whole front of the car from the one centrol point (usually mechanics/RWC testers with there dirty big trolley jacks) ALWAYS watch the RWC testers, it's bugs the sh!t out of them, but I always watch them & wait.

    While I'm at it, there is 'rails' running the whole length of the car if you look underneath too. I think these distribute the impact if your car is ever hit hard up the bum. These rails are not a chassis as such and WILL NOT support the weight of the car (they are almost always bent from people trying to jack off them as well ).

    Good luck, pitty you don't have access to a pit or some high ramps .... I used to have to always spend 1/2 a day moving cars out of my father shed, then bucketing the pit dry to do this sort of work.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Hi George,

    do you mean a length of redgum, or a big lump of firewood like I used to use (in the same way as jack stands). The subframe that runs across the front isn't designed to take the weight of the car. A lot I've seen are bend from poeple trying to lift the whole front of the car from the one centrol point (usually mechanics/RWC testers with there dirty big trolley jacks) ALWAYS watch the RWC testers, it's bugs the sh!t out of them, but I always watch them & wait.

    While I'm at it, there is 'rails' running the whole length of the car if you look underneath too. I think these distribute the impact if your car is ever hit hard up the bum. These rails are not a chassis as such and WILL NOT support the weight of the car (they are almost always bent from people trying to jack off them as well ).

    Good luck, pitty you don't have access to a pit or some high ramps .... I used to have to always spend 1/2 a day moving cars out of my father shed, then bucketing the pit dry to do this sort of work.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Hi Shane, actually the redgum is not that big...but it spans the inner width of the car subframe. I didn't want to bend anything so I used it to spread the weight evenly over a wider area...and it worked well. It aint going anywhere.
    I'm going to get some heavy duty axle stands tomorrow, and they will take up less room as well as raising the car a bit higher so I'll then get access.
    I'll also put the spare wheels under as a secondary backup, so if anything goes wrong the wheels will stop anyone getting splattered...like me.
    It's just not something I like to do at all, getting under extremely heavy objects that are prone to lowering themselves...quickly.
    Those subframe things...mine are partly damaged on one side...by the truckies who transported the car from Sydney. Unfortunately I didn't know you could jack up a dead CX and put timber wedges into the suspension bumpers to hold it up a bit. That would have made a bit of difference.
    I don't think it's too serious.
    Also, the tow rings at the back..the passenger side one looked like it had been rammed into a gutter at speed at some stage. I have straightened it out pretty well, and I took photos of the process. I will write it up and submit it too as a handy guide for fixing bent tow rings. I used a chain, and two jacks .
    Cheers...George 1/8th.

  9. #9
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    George,

    You'll find truckies seem to have a fettish about sitting dead CXs on the edges of the ramps (the upturned bits) so they cave the bottom of them in.
    I think you'll find that they actually unbolt off the main chassis rails so if you are feelong keen somewhere down the track, you can unbolt & either replace with some straight ones (if you can find them) or simply straighten the ones you've got.
    FWIW, a local wrecking yard had an upper section off a car carrier for sale a while back but it got sold before I had a chance to nab it....think about it; what a great way to be able to work on a car. If they were dead, all you then need is a winch & a set of square steel stumps concreted in the ground to support it away we goooooo



    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    George,

    You'll find truckies seem to have a fettish about sitting dead CXs on the edges of the ramps (the upturned bits) so they cave the bottom of them in.
    I think you'll find that they actually unbolt off the main chassis rails so if you are feelong keen somewhere down the track, you can unbolt & either replace with some straight ones (if you can find them) or simply straighten the ones you've got.
    FWIW, a local wrecking yard had an upper section off a car carrier for sale a while back but it got sold before I had a chance to nab it....think about it; what a great way to be able to work on a car. If they were dead, all you then need is a winch & a set of square steel stumps concreted in the ground to support it away we goooooo



    Alan S
    That sounds like a good idea Alan, there must be others around.
    That reminds me about someone who was going to build a trailer with Citroen suspension arms and hydraulics....so you could roll on a really flat dead cit and then switch on an electric motor to drive an old 5 piston pump to raise it all up...and off you go. You could even use an accumulator /regulator so it would stay up . Interesting idea, I think.
    You'd probably have to be retired to have time to do this.
    Cheers....George 1/8th

  11. #11
    UFO
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    Quote Originally Posted by George 1/8th
    That sounds like a good idea Alan, there must be others around.
    That reminds me about someone who was going to build a trailer with Citroen suspension arms and hydraulics....so you could roll on a really flat dead cit and then switch on an electric motor to drive an old 5 piston pump to raise it all up...and off you go. You could even use an accumulator /regulator so it would stay up . Interesting idea, I think.
    You'd probably have to be retired to have time to do this.
    Cheers....George 1/8th
    There have been many who were gunna, but few who have completed. Bob D at Tamworth has a great Cit trailer that he built but the bed of the trailer pivots rather than trying to "hydraulicise" the thing.

    Try this though:

    http://www.citroen.mb.ca/citroenet/h...icccrts02.html

    TWO SMs - yum...
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO
    There have been many who were gunna, but few who have completed. Bob D at Tamworth has a great Cit trailer that he built but the bed of the trailer pivots rather than trying to "hydraulicise" the thing.

    Try this though:

    http://www.citroen.mb.ca/citroenet/h...icccrts02.html

    TWO SMs - yum...
    hi Alan, that's an interesting one. I think it looks pretty smick but that's not how I'd go about it.
    I'd keep it simple and use fixed wheels at the front , and put 2 Citroen rear end suspension units at the rear. Add a winch, and there you go. You would not even need ramps because of the tilt action of the trailer. If you had 2 pumps you could have one powered by an electric motor for initial pump up to level the load, and have a second one that runs off one of the front wheels mechanically linked , to make use of forward motion for lift. An accumulator would be needed to keep the pressure up to standard. A reservior tank for the LHM, A battery..or plug it through from the towing vehicle as per a 7 pin setup.
    Sounds easy, doesn't it?
    Oh I almost forgot...you would also need one of those level adjusters, with a lever for setting and lowering the level of the trailer.
    Cheers...George
    Last edited by George 1/8th; 3rd April 2004 at 09:32 PM.

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