DS Binding Brakes
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Thread: DS Binding Brakes

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    Default DS Binding Brakes

    The brakes on my DS bind for a second or two after the mushroom has been released. I have removed the front brake callipers and replaced the seals as I thought they may be the cause. I have also checked that the back brakes are not binding. Somewhere I remember reading that when replacing the front callipers they should be positioned correctly as follows:
    * Nip the bolts lightly
    * Run the engine on high jack
    * Apply pressure to the brake pedal so that the discs centre themselves
    * Tighten the bolts to the recommended torque
    Of course I did not follow this routine when replacing my callipers. Do you think they could be slightly out of align causing them to momentarily bind?

    Any advice appreciated.

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    Regards
    Errol

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! ds21bvh's Avatar
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    Hi Errol - assuming it's LHM....my first guess would be they are full of air...

    I would re-bleed them at fast idle to remove all the air from the calipers and lines.

    But you probably already know that. The procedure for centering the caliper is correct as you've eluded to.

    If it's a BVH the bleed points are on the CR and the carby.... trap for young players...

    Cheers,

    Mark...

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    Thanks for that Mark. Air could be the culprit as when using the car after standing for a week or so the brake pedal shudders when initially depressed. I will bleed as advised.

    Yes it is a LHM system, and no I did not suspect air in the system as the possible problem. Maybe I should have stuck to L15's.

    Cheers
    Errol

  4. #4
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Naw, it's just a matter of getting over that steep learning curve every D owner faces. When I had my first D- a '63 ID19- there were so many bleeps, blorts and farts in the system and I, the neophyte I was, had not a clue what it all meant. Boy, do I ever now....

    The possibility is a sphere is blown. Get that taken care of ASAP. Are you noticing a shortened time between pump cycles?
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    I intend to persevere until I get to understand this lady.

    New spheres and brake accumulator fitted. Pump cycle at idle on normal ride height is +- 2 minutes. I will do the bleeding today after I have knocked up a jig to apply pressure to the brake mushroom.

    Cheers

  6. #6
    UFO
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    Make sure the LHM intake hose from the tank to pump is not cracked. Check carefully as the cracks can easily hide. Air in the suspension and steering systems self bleeds back to the tank as they are circulatory systems. Brakes are one way only so if the pump is sucking up any air you know where some of it is going to end up...
    Craig K
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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts michaelr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Errol_S View Post
    I intend to persevere until I get to understand this lady.

    New spheres and brake accumulator fitted. Pump cycle at idle on normal ride height is +- 2 minutes. I will do the bleeding today after I have knocked up a jig to apply pressure to the brake mushroom.

    Cheers
    The other symptom of air in the brake system (apart from the calipers holding and that "squark" when you first depress the brake pedal ) is a delay in brake application.

    No need for the pedal holding jig for bleeding. Connect a length of transparent tube to the bleed nipple and lead it into the top of the fluid reservoir. With no pedal pressure crack open the bleed valve, then sit in the car with engine running and gently press the mushroom/brake pedal. You will see the LHM (and air bubbles) traveling continuously to the tank.

    When the fluid is free of bubbles close the bleed screw and repeat with the other caliper.
    Michael
    Member, Citroen Car Club NSW

    DS23 Pallas 5 sp. "Francoise" , BX19TRi Auto "Jacques Dutronc" , Teardrop Trailer "The Toad", BMW R65 "Rosamund"
    In the past: Renault 750, Dauphine, R4, R8, R10, Peugeot 504 Familiale, ID 19 (x2), Safari (x2)

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    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip Michael. This certainly is a lot easier than the procedure in the manual. I assume that the back brake system should also be bled. Which should be done first? I was taught to always start with the furthest bleed nipple.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    You guys are whizzes. I bled the brakes and three problems were resolved:

    1. The initial vibration when pressing the brake pedal was gone.
    2. The brakes release immediately with no binding.
    3. The back does not drop first when applying brakes.

    Thanks for the advice. Until the next problem....

    Regards
    Errol
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