Xantia '96 rear-end light and wiring problems
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Thread: Xantia '96 rear-end light and wiring problems

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Xantia '96 rear-end light and wiring problems

    Hi folks. My 1996 Xantia Break (estate) has some sort of wiring problems that I have been trying to solve, but my little experience with car technicals does not suffice anymore.

    The issues:

    • Both reverse lights are gone
    • LHS hatch parking light is gone
    • RHS register plate light is gone (wiring shared with LHS parking light)
    • Hatch lock 'triggers' when pressing/releasing brake pedal
    • Tail wiper dead


    I did the basic stuff and fixed the broken wires inside the rubber casing at the top of the hatch, but that solved nothing. Up to this point, the hatch lock had been dead, but now it seemed to activate (only) once when I used the central locking system. But as a side effect, the lock seems to 'trigger' when I press or release brake pedal. My guess is that means there's somewhere wiring rubbing against brake light wires?

    Problems aren't in the hatch wiring itself as I stripped the inside panels and found the two connectors inside the RHS chassis. I did some measurements on the connectors (the wires that come from the front of the car) and wires 2211 (reverse lights) and V04D (parking & plate light) act as earths although they should carry a positive charge.

    I also tried measuring the reverse lights connector in the engine compartment, and initially it seemed to give the correct voltage of 2 V but later gave a figure of -0.05 V or something; though it was really hard to hit the pins as the wire is really short and hidden behind all the fluff.

    What would be the next place to start looking at these problems? I don't know where the wires are routed inside the car and would like to avoid stripping everything off just to trace a bunch of cords.

    As a side note, the car's cabin fuse box is a spare part from a Peugeot but seems to be the right model (BB10). Also the said fuse box has some hack, as the fuses 4 and 9 (both for parking lights) are joined by wire and another wire goes to a green relay behind the fuse box. (This hack also seems to enable the dashboard backlight.)

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    I guess it's now easy to point at the fusebox with my remaining light problems too, but still I'm not sure how to progress with all this stuff. MOT is closing in and if I could at least fix the reverse lights, I could go there and see what other problems this car might have and if it's worth trying to fix any.
    Last edited by siika; 20th September 2015 at 04:45 PM.

  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Hi, the fuse panel under the steering wheel is known to fail with age and become unreliable. Putting in another fifteen year old part may not solve your problem. They can be dismantled and inspected/repaired.

    In the cabin are your 30 pin connectors, in the driver's foot well and in the passenger side, three in total of the "marron" colour. Located towards the outer edges of the foot well, below the front door hinge pillars. You need to remove front seats and console, then pull up the carpets to see them. The underlay can remain.

    Quite often you will find heavy corrosion to these connectors.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    If it gets too hard to trouble shoot, I would just rewire the circuits that are giving you the problems to get you through the MOT. However you should try to sort out why it has gone feral so you can stop it getting more feral in the medium term.

    Ken

  4. #4
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    Well, I'm such a noob. I had checked the wrong fuse regarding reverse lights and had not noticed the right one was broken. So I got that fixed easily. The other main issue was also just due to bad fix, since I had accidentally joined the wires wrong at first since there were three identical green wires broken and I forgot to test the connections initially because it was getting dark and rainy. Now I can focus on the rear wiper, which is still dead and not about wiring, as all the wires inside the LHS rubber accordion were in good condition. It used to work every most of the time but recently died off completely.

    The MOT, still, didn't go that well as I got flunked for not having the blower speed knob intact; something that they did not even give a notice for last year. I still have the knob but it can't be reattached, so I'll figure something else out. I'm sure that's easier than electronics for me!
    JohnW and Ken W like this.

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