CX help (Melbourne) - Mechanically challenged owner
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! DanielBendigo's Avatar
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    Default CX help (Melbourne) - Mechanically challenged owner

    Hi, I've got a bit of a bizarre request. I bought my CX about 12 months ago, with the aim of getting it on the road. Since then, it's had some time in two mechanic's who tinkered with it, making some improvements, and now it's spent the last few months at my parents place. They want it gone, and I want it on the road before I lose interest.

    My mechanical capabilities are really limited, and I'm hoping someone may be able to spare some time to teach me to get the car going. I've managed to teach myself how to change the coils on my Clio, but that's really as far as my mechancical knowledge goes. I haven't even done an oil change myself since my first car 15 years ago.

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    It's a 1985 CX25 GTi Auto (Sth African import).

    There's two main things that need doing. The car runs, but it's running very rich and cuts out (but doesn't always stall) at around 1500 rpm. I don't even know where to start on this one. The second thing is the interior (dash) has been pulled apart. And given I didn't pull it apart, I'm really struggling with how it all goes back, more so the wiring.

    It's made more challenging by the fact that the car is in Melbourne, and I can only get down once a month, but I'm next down again in two weeks (26/27 September), and hoping someone may have a half day or so to spend some time teaching and problem solving.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Bruce H's Avatar
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    Hi Daniel
    Can't help much remotely with the first, other than to ask if you've checked for splits in the bellows to the air filter as this can do weird things to the mixture and cause stalling?
    How much / which bits of the dash? If I was in the area I'd offer to help on this bit, as I've disassembled and / or reassembled the dash on different CX's a half dozen times. If you get stuck on this, maybe post some pics and CXers here may be able to remotely assist. I know there are a lot of bits and wires inside a CX, but this bit of the job certainly isn't beyond the ability of someone in your situation as I've done it myself.

    Please keep us posted - I was wondering what had happened with your car.
    Bruce H

    Now 99 Xantia SX x2; 96 Xantia SX; 76 GS Club Estate x2; 76 GS Club; 74 GS Club; 88 VW T3 Reimo
    Before: AX Gti; BX 19TRi Estate; CX 2200 Super & Pallas; CX2400 Pallas; CX 2400ie Prestige auto; DS3 DStyle; GS Pallas; GSA Club; Xantia Image Estate; Xantia Exclusive; Xsara VTR R4; 1.4 Special Estate; Virage; R16TS

    Contact for the Australian Citroen GS GSA and Birotor Register http://australiancitroengsgsaandbiro...com/index.html

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    Daniel I have just sent a request similar to yours. If U or I get help Please share. I do have lots of stuff on the dash but more trouble with wiring.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    I second Bruce. Work logically, as logically as you can anyhow. As the engine starts, we have spark and fuel. Therefore the first thing to check is air tightness in the intake air hoses after the Air Flow Meter, every one. I would take off the bellows from the AFM to the manifold, check carefully, then you can easily remove the air flow meter and check the condition of the air filter. Also check that the AFM moves freely and does not bind anywhere. As with any work on a CX, the first thing to do is remove the grille and the headlights so you can get at things. Good luck and post some photos.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    If anyone has some pictures they took when taking a series 2 dash out, I'm sure it would help if these were posted on this thread.

    Cheers, Ken W

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Do you have a wiring diagram?
    If not try here for a down load of all info re CX
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wrb1qqsgwwse290/xvxoMLUoZ1
    Last edited by gerrypro; 13th September 2015 at 09:06 AM.
    Cheers Gerry

  7. #7
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I'd think for Daniel, half the problems could be ameliorated by relocating the car much closer.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Find someone with some space to put the car up preferably with some tools,you can't go messing with cars when your folks want to lose it, talk them into forking out for a trailer relocation programme! Two birds one stone, then get your hands on a manual, search online for a pdf version and start reading about how to tackle the problem, even a Haynes to start with, the issues will soon appear fixable but be prepared to spend some money on parts or at least see how lateral you can be with solving things, then you'll start to get a picture of how the car should or could behave when you tinker with it, unfortunately being an older car certain parts, hoses , bearings etc etc will be well and trully worn if the maintenance has been ignored and the old girl won't behave unless attended to, best of all as you request get someone who knows the model to look it over and see if you are walking into a mechanical minefield, if they suggest it is going to cost bucks to rescusitate and you can think of better things to do with your dough, Lose it! Good luck.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! DanielBendigo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce H View Post
    Hi Daniel
    Can't help much remotely with the first, other than to ask if you've checked for splits in the bellows to the air filter as this can do weird things to the mixture and cause stalling?
    How much / which bits of the dash? If I was in the area I'd offer to help on this bit, as I've disassembled and / or reassembled the dash on different CX's a half dozen times. If you get stuck on this, maybe post some pics and CXers here may be able to remotely assist. I know there are a lot of bits and wires inside a CX, but this bit of the job certainly isn't beyond the ability of someone in your situation as I've done it myself.

    Please keep us posted - I was wondering what had happened with your car.
    Thanks Bruce. I've previously checked all the bellows, and they were checked by the mechanic, but I'm going to check more carefully. It's actually OK for the first 5-10 seconds on start-up (revs up), then won't rev after over about 1500. I'll go through it all more carefully when I'm down in two weeks.

    It's basically all the centre console bit that's out. The unit behind the steering wheel is still in place, and appears to be working), aside from left turn indicator, although that could be because the left headlight is out. The problem was I only ever 'saw' it in place when I bought it. It went straight to the mechanics, and I told them not to bother putting it back together again, I'd do that. All I can see is far too many wires. I'll take some photo's. I think I need to connect everything up, and see which wires are loose, then worry about putting it back together.

    As I've discovered from Peterbuc's post, there's a series 1.5 GTi. Mine's a series 1, but not sure if 1, or 1.5. How do I tell?

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg C View Post
    I second Bruce. Work logically, as logically as you can anyhow. As the engine starts, we have spark and fuel. Therefore the first thing to check is air tightness in the intake air hoses after the Air Flow Meter, every one. I would take off the bellows from the AFM to the manifold, check carefully, then you can easily remove the air flow meter and check the condition of the air filter. Also check that the AFM moves freely and does not bind anywhere. As with any work on a CX, the first thing to do is remove the grille and the headlights so you can get at things. Good luck and post some photos.
    I've got one headlight and the grille out. Will pull out the other one. When it was in at the auto electricians, the air flow meter was reconditioned. It was till running rough, so by process of elimination I bought another airflow meter, which didn't solve it. I'll recheck all the hoses.

    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Do you have a wiring diagram?
    If not try here for a down load of all info re CX
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wrb1qqsgwwse290/xvxoMLUoZ1
    Thanks. That will come in handy.

    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    I'd think for Daniel, half the problems could be ameliorated by relocating the car much closer.
    Agree completely. Plus I have cover. I was going to get it towed up to Bendigo, it seemed good value when I thought it was around $300. But turned out to be $500. Although that will make things much easier for me.


    A CX had been my dream car for 30 years, after seeing a teacher at school drive one (which I now know to be a 2400 Pallas). After missing out on a couple, I found this one for what was a bargain price. It was a deceased estate, and the guy selling it was completely honest about it, but love was in my eyes, and I thought I could learn.

    Unfortunately I haven't had as much time as I would have liked, with a couple of long holidays this year, and commitments at home preventing me getting down to it.

    In hindsight had I known better, I really should have bought another better one, and then bought this as a parts car.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! DanielBendigo's Avatar
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    One other question, the car came with lots of spare parts, of a 2200 I believe. The left headlight that would have been on the car has had a fair bit of the chrome come off (which I tried to polish, and made far worse). The mounting screw is on the top. There's another set of headlights, but the mounting screws are on the bottom. Can they be fitted at all? They take up a bit of space, so if they're no use to me, I might as well put on ebay.

    Also, anyone know of an inexpensive way to have the headlight re-chromed (as I said, really limited mechanical knowledge)?

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    Sounds like the airflow meter and system can be put aside as working correctly. Next thing to check is the fuel pressure. Maybe the best way to sort it out is getting it towed to a known good Citroen mechanic who will find the problem quick. You work at things you know well, get money and give it to the mechanic who knows what he is doing. Once it is going you can sort out the cosmetic issues.

    As for headlights, never touch the silver surface. It is incredibly thin as you have found. They can be rechromed but might be more cost effective to buy new ones from CX Basis.
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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    Sounds like the airflow meter and system can be put aside as working correctly. Next thing to check is the fuel pressure. Maybe the best way to sort it out is getting it towed to a known good Citroen mechanic who will find the problem quick. You work at things you know well, get money and give it to the mechanic who knows what he is doing. Once it is going you can sort out the cosmetic issues.

    As for headlights, never touch the silver surface. It is incredibly thin as you have found. They can be rechromed but might be more cost effective to buy new ones from CX Basis.
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  13. #13
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I think I'd change the fuel filter before I did anything else ............................. Actually, you said very rich ... Does it have a leaky injector, if it has a cold start injector, plug the fule line to it and try again. Also I've had the pressure regulator die on mine in the past and when I installed a fuel pressure gauge it nailed the needle on the back of the 0psi stop.... the sucker was running way more than 60psi in the fuel rail (amazing a line didn't blow and drown the motor with fuel).

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  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Bruce H's Avatar
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    I agree that getting the car running is the first step - you can drive a CX without the centre console tidied. CX help (Melbourne) - Mechanically challenged owner-cx-outside-tambo.jpg

    Centre console wiring often looks a much bigger mess than it is.
    I'm not sure what spec your South African vehicle includes - I assume it's 4 power windows, front air-conditioning, but are we also talking rear a/c, and if so does it have a fan speed switch at the rear of the console? Does it have any switches in the roof console? Does it look like you might have any additional after-market audio or other accessories that have required extra wiring (to a CD stacker, for example)? These things determine how much your wiring will look like any wiring diagram you might find.

    If it's just the standard wiring you should find that in most cases the wiring length should give you a fair idea where to start by indicating which switch it's likely to reach - are your switches still stuck in the plastic of the console, or do you need help working out which switch originally goes where? Did they disconnect the slide control panel from the console cover and leave it in place, or has it been pulled out as well?
    Forgive me if I'm telling you what you already know here: Get yourself some spare fuses so a blown one won't stop you for long as you work, some masking tape and a pen. Start by checking you know everything you're trying to power (I was initially confused when refitting the Prestige wiring loom as it had wires running from the rear of the console that didn't exist in Pallases I'd worked on before, and I had forgotten that fact when I was trying to re-assemble the car about a year after I'd stripped it so wasn't looking for the necessary connections), then eliminate the easiest - eg the windows plugs; wiring to speakers. Check what will reach - eg the distance to the handbrake warning switch or the rear a/c switch - label everything that works with the masking tape as you go, because you'll have to disconnect them again as you refit the plastic console covers. Don't be surprised if some things once reconnected don't work - it well may be a dud switch, a fuse, the wiring at the other end, or the motor / bulb /etc. that is the problem, rather than that wire that you're sure you just connected to the correct point.
    Bruce H

    Now 99 Xantia SX x2; 96 Xantia SX; 76 GS Club Estate x2; 76 GS Club; 74 GS Club; 88 VW T3 Reimo
    Before: AX Gti; BX 19TRi Estate; CX 2200 Super & Pallas; CX2400 Pallas; CX 2400ie Prestige auto; DS3 DStyle; GS Pallas; GSA Club; Xantia Image Estate; Xantia Exclusive; Xsara VTR R4; 1.4 Special Estate; Virage; R16TS

    Contact for the Australian Citroen GS GSA and Birotor Register http://australiancitroengsgsaandbiro...com/index.html

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! DanielBendigo's Avatar
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    It's got front and rear air conditioning, stereo replaced by a cassette del in 80's or 90's.

    Switched around gear selector have been pulled out. Do they gave to go back in exact spot?

    Front power windows plus a sunroof. I'll take some photos when I'm down next.

    Engine is main priority. I'll get hold of a workshop manual and try Shane suggestions.

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts Bruce H's Avatar
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    No, switches don't have to go back in same place, just it can make finding where some wires reach easier. If it's the ones around the gear selector it won't make much difference.
    Bruce H

    Now 99 Xantia SX x2; 96 Xantia SX; 76 GS Club Estate x2; 76 GS Club; 74 GS Club; 88 VW T3 Reimo
    Before: AX Gti; BX 19TRi Estate; CX 2200 Super & Pallas; CX2400 Pallas; CX 2400ie Prestige auto; DS3 DStyle; GS Pallas; GSA Club; Xantia Image Estate; Xantia Exclusive; Xsara VTR R4; 1.4 Special Estate; Virage; R16TS

    Contact for the Australian Citroen GS GSA and Birotor Register http://australiancitroengsgsaandbiro...com/index.html

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    The switches around the gear lever are for the power windows. I'd say it is important they go back in the right spot so you can open the right window at a glance.
    Mine

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  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! Jinandfonic's Avatar
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    I'ts taken me 6 months to get around to replacing the dash in my 2200. A simpler model yet still confusing as some of the loom came apart before I could mark them. An A3 photocopy of the wiring diagram has been recommended. A meter, spare fuses, coloured pens, a permanent marker & masking tape. Some dash lights only come on with headlights ie. Glove box, hand held map light. Loom for heater fan has a common positive, earth changes speed. Two other wires accompany them. Obviously for the A/C? This is where I come unstuck as yet to workout how the thermostat switch connects in, as the wires disappear under hand brake and both black. I have to clean up the contacts on fan speed as moving either heater or flow direction levers start the fan.

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