CX Central Locking
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Armidale, NSW

    Default CX Central Locking

    This attempt at a fix was based on this thread and specifically on the solution by JBN in it.

    XANTIA central locking.

    When I looked at the infrared plip unit on the CX Series 2 Turbo 2, also in the roof the controller had only 4 wires not 6 as described by John.

    1. Brown wire - believed to be Earth
    2. Green wire - 12v always on
    3. Brown wire - yellow mark
    4. Brown wire - blue mark

    I thought that in fact this was the same as described by john minus the accessory connection. BTW I checked central locking was working. So bought same kit and cut off excess wire. Applied green wire to + and unmarked brown to - pressed buttons on remote and we had clicking coming from Supercheap plip unit.

    Playing around with remote I could see that the green and blue wires on the unit provided an instant of power depending on whether the lock unlock button pushed.

    What I found when I touched an a power light tester to either of the white or brown wires was that no circuit was created so I am assuming these were earth connections.

    I then touched the circuit probe from an earth to the brown wire with the yellow mark and the central locking of the car activated. Same result with the brown wire with the blue mark. I therefore assume that upon the pressing of the central locking remote the plip provides an earth to complete the circuit.

    I then connected the new Supercheap plip unit as described by John. Pushed the remote - hear the plip get the signal but no central locking.


    Thought circuit earth might not be good enough so attached a good earth. No go.

    Ran circuit tester from one of the brown wires with a colour tag to the power input on plip. No circuit as expected. Pushed remote, plip clicks and very low light shows for an instant on circuit tester. I am assuming that this shows that a circuit is created with an earth going to the locking mechanism but somehow not enough to activate the central locking unit.

    On reflection of what I did the only thing I can see different was that I left a fuse in line for the 12v into the Supercheap plip unit. I can not see how this would make a difference.

    Any ideas or advice please.

    All the best,


  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Don't remind me!


    You're on the right track - the 405 early C/L unit is a four wire jobbie, too. Earthing one or the other of the brown wires, reverses the status of the locks.

    Any chance of posting up the supercheap item's schematic?

    Basically, you need to have it so one relay momentarily grounds out one of the original brown wires when your new remote is pressed to lock, and the other brown wire is earthed momentarily when you unlock on the new remote. If the remote is sync'd to the receiver/relay box then you should be able to bench test it with a very simple circuit.

    Some generic kits have a link you cut to change the duration of the relay's operation by a factor of ten or so. Others you move a little connector sideways in a plug-in block on the PCB.

  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000


    I can't remember how I did it ... but the car cycles through locked/unlocked. There's not a lock wire and an unlock wire from memory. So you'll need to figure out a way of hooking the lock/unlock wires of your alarm in.... I seem to recall I stuck a diode in each line of the alarms wires to stop feedback with them joined together. It's 12years ago, so my memory is a "little" hazy.

    Shane L.
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