Complete restoration?
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Thread: Complete restoration?

  1. #1
    WRB
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    Default Complete restoration?

    I am seriously considering doing a ground up resto on the CX. I have plenty of room in the shed and have done two complete restorations in the past (Morris minors - a van and a woody). The only issues that may cause problems is where to paint the body shell (I am in suburbia..) and, of course, Money.

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    I will sleep on the idea for a month or so.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Go for it! It is a frustrating but ultimately satisfying exercise! Good to see that someone else is willing to acknowledge how great these cars are and who does not suffer from D induced myopia!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    If you have done it in the past, you know how much work it will be .... and the fact a dissasembled car takes the space of 4 assembled car Personally I don't see the point in separating the body from the subframe (it's not a chassis), but I guess it would be interesting to see how it all goes together!
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    I will sleep on the idea for a month or so.
    Man I wish I could sleep for a month...

    Good luck with the resto, it will be of interest to many of us I'm sure.

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    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    I have another one of those. Thank god I don't have a shed. That is the first part of any project.

    Do it.

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    JBN
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    If you do separate the body from the sub frame, ensure that the engine is removed first, otherwise the longerons will bend. I remember seeing a special frame that was use to prevent this happening. I had mine taken back to bare metal and resprayed in two pack. Looked terrific. I than replaced the jersey upholstery with synthetic suede (colour of chamois). Stunning.

    Then wrote the car off and got $9,500 from insurance whilst I was trying to sell it for $7,500. There is a God and sometimes he likes me.

    John

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    WRB
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    Robert at HEKA has a subframe jig but, as long as you do not undo any of the bolts holding it together then, it would be okay to remove. Nothing should be left on it though as it is not designed as a full chassis and will not take the strain of the engine in place without the body attached. The only reason I would remove it is for removing rust and re-coating.

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    I'd thought this CX was an unusually good survivor from earlier commentary. Why else would you have bought an early car from interstate without power steering? It may be desirable to keep it in original condition and improve it with sympathy unless it actually needs a complete restoration. You can't recreate patina. Entirely your choice of course.

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    WRB
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    Hi David,

    Unfortunately, looks can be deceiving. The more time I spend on it, the more I discover is wrong. That is no really an issue if it were just mechanical but, I keep finding areas of rust penetration and so, would like to find all of it. This will mean pulling the whole thing apart, which I could do piece by piece, welding in new metal as I go but, I wouldn't find it all doing it this way. anyway, I will continue to improve things until I make a decision one way or the other....

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    Robert at HEKA has a subframe jig but, as long as you do not undo any of the bolts holding it together then, it would be okay to remove. Nothing should be left on it though as it is not designed as a full chassis and will not take the strain of the engine in place without the body attached. The only reason I would remove it is for removing rust and re-coating.
    Removing the sub frames and longerons is no biggie PROVIDED that you remove all mechanical components first until the "chassis" is bare except for Hydraulic lines! I made a trolley from wood and added a set of castors so that I could lower the chassis onto it and wheel it out from under the body shell. No need for specialised jigs as long as everything is straight and true before you start. Just lack the car evenly and place on strong stands so that you do not induce a twist. I packed the differences between the stands with thin wood blocks to keep everything true. The wood blocks also served to distribute the load at the contact point of each stand.
    You will be able to assess the condition of each of the attachment point rubbers and replace as necessary.
    Cheers Gerry

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    WRB
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    You know Gerry, I am probably going to be calling you every night for advice if I decide to restore it

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    You would be most welcome!
    okalford likes this.
    Cheers Gerry

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