CX water leaks
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Thread: CX water leaks

  1. #1
    WRB
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    Default CX water leaks

    Hi,

    Are water leaks between the head and inlet manifold common? The chap I bought this off said that it was leaking and the manifold side of the head was skimmed (which I can see) and the leak was fixed (or was it??? cue dramatic music). It has started leaking again or, perhaps it was never fixed properly - interesting how the wires for the header tank float are nowhere in sight...

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  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    never heard of that one ... There is a small hose on top of the inlet manifold. pull this off and see if the aluminium is corroded away it clamps too
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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Possibly the head gasket has failed???? My engine had been cooked when I first got my car and major work was necessary on the head to remove the warping. When I bought it I had to drive it home from Eltham to Mooroolbark. I got about half way before being enveloped in clouds of steam.
    AS your car is new to you I would recommend that you do a top end overhaul just to make sure that there are no nasty surprises lurking to ruin your day. CXs are more prone to being cooked than are Ds! Maybe it has something to do with failure to properly bleed the air out of the cooling system!
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    Cheers Gerry

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Possibly the head gasket has failed???? My engine had been cooked when I first got my car and major work was necessary on the head to remove the warping. When I bought it I had to drive it home from Eltham to Mooroolbark. I got about half way before being enveloped in clouds of steam.
    AS your car is new to you I would recommend that you do a top end overhaul just to make sure that there are no nasty surprises lurking to ruin your day. CXs are more prone to being cooked than are Ds! Maybe it has something to do with failure to properly bleed the air out of the cooling system!
    If you do take the head off, have a really good check of camshaft and cam followers.

    I've tried to cook the CX engine and failed, which is encouraging.

    Good luck.
    JohnW

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    WRB
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    I will take the manifold off when I run out of work (the money making type) sometime this coming week. Hope the head ain't cracked - I haven't learned how to TIG aluminium yet....

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    Ive just been through every leak known to CX I think.

    First my expansion tank blew, just after crossing the Harbour Bridge, then the Water Pump and finally the gearbox coolant tank ... so one thing can lead to another

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    Quote Originally Posted by 560sel View Post
    Ive just been through every leak known to CX I think.

    First my expansion tank blew, just after crossing the Harbour Bridge, then the Water Pump and finally the gearbox coolant tank ... so one thing can lead to another
    I'm with you on that 560! I found out the hard way one of the worst things you can do for a CX is add granulated radiator stop leak to the system......a bit of a mental lapse that one which resulted in the heater core fully blocking and blowing a complicated early model (2000/2200) cooling junction (second time). It now has the later cooling system with the exploding....I mean de-aeration chamber. I put that on upside down and it split over 300k's from home........all good now but still opening up the bleed screw on the water pump now and then. I was told that it was a common problem for early CX's to cook from getting low on coolant despite showing a good level in the header tank. As Gerry said lack of satisfactory bleeding hence the need to crack open the bleed screws at regular intervals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy N View Post
    . I put that on upside down and it split over 300k's from home........all good now but still opening up the bleed screw on the water pump now and then. I was told that it was a common problem for early CX's to cook from getting low on coolant despite showing a good level in the header tank. As Gerry said lack of satisfactory bleeding hence the need to crack open the bleed screws at regular intervals.
    I Jack my car on the LHS front when bleeding the system! Helps the air move to the water pump mounted bleed screw more easily! Squeezing the top radiator hose in short rapid bursts also helps pulse the coolant to achieve a clean bleed!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    I've found that after a coolant change it can take quite a few days of driving before the temperature gauge behaves properly in my CX (I have a good aftermarket one) and settles on the "normal" temperature. I've always put it down to a bit of air in the system gradually finding its way out. Mine is a 1979 model and has the de-aerator device.

    Regarding Bars-Leaks type products, I doubt it is only old CXs that can be upset! I wouldn't put it near mine. Having said that, some new-ish cars, though, tolerate it well, for example as a cheap medium term fix for leaky heater radiators.

    Good luck with the leak. My first careful dismantle would be that rubber hose that Shane mentioned.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    I always follow the book when filling and bleeding the system. Run engine at 2,000rpm until fans cut in at high speed. Takes about 10 minutes but all air gets out via the water pump bleed. And that is with the car perfectly level.
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    I also go around squeezing all hoses multiple times to eject air and suck water in....

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg C View Post
    I always follow the book when filling and bleeding the system. Run engine at 2,000rpm until fans cut in at high speed. Takes about 10 minutes but all air gets out via the water pump bleed. And that is with the car perfectly level.
    There is another approach that works well that I use in conjunction with the jacking and hose pulsing. It is so simple. Use a garden hose after having first added the correct amount of coolant concentrate Push the nozzle into the header bottle opening and let the tap run slowly until full Then increase the pressure from the tap while the bleed screw is open. This really moves the air in the system and creates an impressive fountain above the water pump. Close the bleed screw and the job is done!!!!
    Cheers Gerry

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    I bled it it by leaving the cap off the expansion tank...cause I'm clever, and yes Gerry is spot on, it took about 10 mins for the bubbling to cease.

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    Getting ahead of ourselves here - I still have to fix the leak!
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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    All useful information Warren.
    Cheers Gerry

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    Yep, that it is

    thanks

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    Talk to me if you end up needing another cylinder head, Warren. I have a couple here.
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    Thanks so much for that John, I will let you know.

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    Well, I just drove my daughter down to Frankston so, I have been driving for around an hour and a half and, no water leak!
    It has fixed itself.....

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    They'll be back...sorry. Mine behaved for a few weeks then....

    Still get it checked out!

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    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    Well, I just drove my daughter down to Frankston so, I have been driving for around an hour and a half and, no water leak!
    It has fixed itself.....
    I hope it didn't leak till it ran out of water. I've never known of a leak to fix itself. Good luck.

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    No, I filled the header and, it is still in there. What may be the issue is non-working radiator fans. It was leaking after a stop start drive through Melbourne but, the only other trips I have done have been on freeways. I forgot to check if the fans were working when I went down to Frankston so, once I get it back from getting it's RWC today (it better bloody pass!!) I will let it run in the driveway for 1/2 and hour or so and see if they come on. Of course, the bulbs that are missing from the dashboard are the oil and water temperature ones which is a bit of a worry....

  23. #23
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    No, I filled the header and, it is still in there. What may be the issue is non-working radiator fans. It was leaking after a stop start drive through Melbourne but, the only other trips I have done have been on freeways. I forgot to check if the fans were working when I went down to Frankston so, once I get it back from getting it's RWC today (it better bloody pass!!) I will let it run in the driveway for 1/2 and hour or so and see if they come on. Of course, the bulbs that are missing from the dashboard are the oil and water temperature ones which is a bit of a worry....
    Working radiator fans is an absolute must. There isn't enough cooling airflow even at speed without the fans on!

    seeya,
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    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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    The warning lights at least give you a sign of impending trouble too

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    The water and oil temp warning lights are among those that are missing. Anyway, the car is still at the mechanics getting a RWC (hopefully) so, I cannot check it till I get it back - they are probably still looking for the shock absorbers and springs....

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