Battery voltage
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Thread: Battery voltage

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    Fellow Frogger! Ceenine's Avatar
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    Default Battery voltage

    I have recharged the battery and is showing about 12.6 volts. What is the approximate level below which the vehicle will go constantly into economy mode in my C4 1.6l HDI

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    Hi,
    I thought that it just went into economy mode on time. After a certain time, 20 minutes or so, it just turns everything off.
    Jaahn

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    The BSI primarily monitors the voltage as far as I'm aware. The time seems to vary from car to car, depending on the state of charge etc.. I can recall a chart explaining the operation and different downgrade modes resulting, but can't find it. It will be in the factory manuals somewhere and there may even be a decent explanation in the handbook.

    The engine fusebox / slave unit can be a suspect in sudden mysterious electrical faults. It's not VIN-coded, so is one that's worth swapping as a test before becoming too involved in changing the VIN-coded parts.

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    Fellow Frogger! Ceenine's Avatar
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    So is the under dash fuse box VIN coded?
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    Fellow Frogger! tasie C5's Avatar
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    Hello Ceenine. My C5 x7's economy mode started to slowly shorten overtime a year or so ago. Charged the battery, then approx. 4 years old, it showed 12.6V. However it was time, in retrospect, to change the battery. I did not. So other things started to show up on the engine managements screen. I should have changed the battery when the voltage started to drop. It took some time to get rid of the fault warning that I believe was triggered by low voltage. The car started and ran well in spite of the warning. I guess that the economy mode coming in at shortened intervals is a low voltage warning and should be heeded.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceenine View Post
    So is the under dash fuse box VIN coded?
    Yes, that's the BSI in behind the glovebox. It's VIN must match the Engine ECU.
    The underbonnet fuse box contains some fuses and relays controlled by the BSI, so it's called the slave.
    Sorry, I've not found that diagram re economy mode.

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceenine View Post
    I have recharged the battery and is showing about 12.6 volts. What is the approximate level below which the vehicle will go constantly into economy mode in my C4 1.6l HDI
    12.6 is a little low, but not horribly so. You should see 12.7-.8 at rest. Two questions: How old is the battery, and have you done a running voltage check? Also, has the timeout shortened noticeably in your ownership? Low at-rest voltage can cause that.

    Do a few checks before you do something like swap out a fuse panel. You may have no real problem at all except normal wear and tear.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Yes, that's the BSI in behind the glovebox. It's VIN must match the Engine ECU.
    The underbonnet fuse box contains some fuses and relays controlled by the BSI, so it's called the slave.
    Sorry, I've not found that diagram re economy mode.
    David, is my assumption correct, that the 'economy' function is a timeout for accessory operation with the ignition off?
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    Fellow Frogger! Ceenine's Avatar
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    Battery is only a couple of years old.
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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    That's lifetime for many. I'd second Bill's proposal you get it load tested.

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    Fellow Frogger! Ceenine's Avatar
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    Thanks Addo, I will get the Century battery load tested and I might get myself done at the same time.

    Strikes me that it is worth the extra cost for an original type Varta. Any Australian sourced replacements of the battery (normally Varta or Korean), which lasts seven or eight years, last about three years only. There must be a logical explanation for this such as different materials used for plates etc. I would be interested to know.
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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can reset the economy timer setting and give it a boost for a while. I think the BSI must also monitors the battery voltage during starting and if it gets too low, it aborts the start. Maybe it uses this data to set its battery condition measure.

    When you get into this stage its best to fit a new battery.

    Ken W

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceenine View Post
    Thanks Addo, I will get the Century battery load tested and I might get myself done at the same time.

    Strikes me that it is worth the extra cost for an original type Varta. Any Australian sourced replacements of the battery (normally Varta or Korean), which lasts seven or eight years, last about three years only. There must be a logical explanation for this such as different materials used for plates etc. I would be interested to know.
    Wikipedia has an excellent page describing lead acid, AGM and gel-cell batteries, all 3 of which you will see in a modern (and some not so modern) cars.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceenine View Post
    Thanks Addo, I will get the Century battery load tested and I might get myself done at the same time.

    Strikes me that it is worth the extra cost for an original type Varta. Any Australian sourced replacements of the battery (normally Varta or Korean), which lasts seven or eight years, last about three years only. There must be a logical explanation for this such as different materials used for plates etc. I would be interested to know.
    Using a Hydrometer gives a better result for testing batteries. Need a chart as well to see State of Charge

    Car and Deep Cycle Battery Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Section 4

    is as good as any, also shows voltage v's temperature

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    True, a hydrometer may tell you what's going on, but I'm going to disagree on a practical basis.

    Most decently equipped independent garages, and all proper battery vendors have a load tester. Takes all of two or three minutes on most cars, to run a load test on the battery - some of the machines even give a printout. It saves having to crack a sealed battery open, too.

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by driven View Post
    Using a Hydrometer gives a better result for testing batteries. Need a chart as well to see State of Charge

    Car and Deep Cycle Battery Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Section 4

    is as good as any, also shows voltage v's temperature
    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    True, a hydrometer may tell you what's going on, but I'm going to disagree on a practical basis.

    Most decently equipped independent garages, and all proper battery vendors have a load tester. Takes all of two or three minutes on most cars, to run a load test on the battery - some of the machines even give a printout. It saves having to crack a sealed battery open, too.
    That's a worthwhile page to bookmark.

    A hydrometer test was quite good for it's time, when a car wasn't so picky about at-rest voltage. Cars today are extremely touchy about low voltage states, and a load test is a better way to measure that condition. Most testers today don't even load the battery as they once did, merely checking across cells by reading the current and voltage levels, and measuring it across the battery according to battery size (usually CCA).

    Using a hydrometer for test is A-OK, I'm sure as hell not going to tell you don't. But this is a case where a load test and an alternator output test is a better bet.
    addo likes this.
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