Stuck clip
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Thread: Stuck clip

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Stuck clip

    Hi all
    Looking for advice on how to remove a clip that is seized in the rear suspension ram
    The car is a 1979 citroen cx that I am restoring, I am working on the rear suspension at the moment and need to replace the gaiters on the rear arms. No bother I thought, release pressure depress ram remove circlip pull out clip and out she comes. One pin on the drivers side slipped out no bother but the passenger side one is firmly wedged in place. i assume that there has been a reaction between the different metals that has led to it jamming. I fed it penetrating fluid for over a week after the problem emerged. It would'nt shift on muscle power, I tried gripping it with a vice and slipping a large screwdriver in for additional leverage, no good. I also tried tapping the screwdriver with a hammer to give the effect of a slide hammer, no good. A friend of mine suggested heat, did'nt work but I succeeded in snapping the clip leaving about a half inch sticking out. Another suggestion was to drill it out but I would be seriously worried about the bit drifting off the narrow pin into the softer aluminum.
    I am now considering cutting off the piece that's sticking out and using a steel nail as a punch and trying to punch it through, I reckon I have enough clearance on the opposite side to allow this. Before I try this I'm hoping that someone might have a better suggestion.I suppose that I could remove the arm but that would be a real last resort the line that's on this is perfect but the pipe nut is seized (I have replacement lines for all the rest). The corresponding pipe nut on the other tube had to be drilled out and I really don't want to go through that again with this side
    Thanks
    [IMG][/IMG]

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  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Not such a common thing here due to lack of road salt.

    I'd be tempted to try mechanical impact if you have something like a proper hammer drill with straight hammer setting. Just need to cobble up a means to keep the driving tip in line with the pin.

    Attempting to drill sounds like inviting disaster.
    JohnW likes this.

  3. #3
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    Thanks addo
    Hadnt thought of using hammer action drill, I reckon if I get a suitably narrow punch that I can grip in the drill jaws then I'd have a chance.
    Good suggestion

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Looks a bugger! Can you drill a hole along the length of the punch so it will slip over rather than slip off. Even a few mm will keep the drift in place while you bash the crap out of it. As long as it doesn't spread and get stuck in the drift....

  5. #5
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    Plan for tomorrow is to borrow the brothers hammer action drill. I'm hoping that I can grip the end of the piece sticking out in the chuck so that the hammer action is sent direct through the pin itself. If that wont work then I have a punch that I think I can grab in the chuck, I will try Babadec's idea and drill a shallow hole in the end to keep it in place on the pin.Looks like a joint operation Addo/Babadec.
    Thanks guys, will report back

  6. #6
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Just be sure it can do straight hammer, no drilling action. A lot of keyed chuck type drills have a rotation component of all modes.

    Otherwise if you can borrow an SDS chuck type drill, they all have a dedicated hammer setting, you could cut off a 10mm bit and soften it, then counterbore to pin diameter plus one mm, about 8mm deep to locate the pin as it hammered away.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Proper pin punches are better than cut nails, a set of various sizes is not too expensive from a tool place, once you have a set you will find them useful for all sorts of things. Bigger head to hit with a hammer, manual or electric. Also ordinary nails are not very hard & can mushroom & jam in the hole. You may want to shorten the bit sticking out so it does not buckle when you hit it. Hope this is useful.

    Regards

    agd123

    agd123

  8. #8
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Nasty, and best of luck with the impact approach. I'd not dare to drill it unless all else failed.

    However, last year I restored the alloy bases of a pair of lovely Ruby Scintex rear lamps for my Renault 750, one of which had a steel screw firmly welded to the threaded socket in the alloy. In the end I did drill out the shank of the screw (the head was broken off when they arrived, and yes, it was from UK ebay). My approach was to drill super-carefully with a bit of much smaller diameter than the screw, using a drill press to keep the drill bit parallel with the screw. It did work, as I could then drill out with successively larger diameter bits. I cleaned the last fragments out with a metric tap of the exact thread pitch, and all was completely successful. But you have to be very focussed on the process, not the outcome, and just take as long as it takes. If you could push on a small tube of the right ID for the OD of the pin, you'd have a bit of a guide for the drill bit.

    I'd keep soaking and using impact myself.

    Once it is restored, no doubt you won't be leaving the pins for 15 years or so!

    I've not seen that funny reddish-brown coating on the steel of my 1980 CX. Bit warmer and drier over here in Western Australia.

    Very best of luck with it. Where are you in Ireland by the way?
    JohnW

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  9. #9
    UFO
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    Silly question, but have you tried to tap it from the other direction to get it moving a little then work in the direction you need to go?
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  10. #10
    Tadpole
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    Thanks guys
    I collected a suitable drill today but we have had really lousy weather here this year, the rain has meant that I cant do anything out side so hopefully tomorrow I will get at it, the idea of the 10mm sds bit is interesting, I think I will play around with this soon. All I did today was to experiment with the door cards,both front ones have pulled away from the door frame at the top I have the drivers one strapped to a bench at the moment I am trying to reverse the bend by steaming it and putting tension in the opposite direction to the bend. It's a bit heath robinson I know but replacement door cards are thin on the ground. My brother is on his way back from the Netherlands with his latest purchase, a 70's DS, its the third one he has put through his hands in the last ten years but by the sounds of it this one will be a keeper. I did try moving it every way possible UFO but I reckon all I succeeded in doing was causing it to break through metal fatigue. I'm located in the south JohnW, in Listowel Kerry.
    I constantly seem to be stuck in the brothers renovation ideas, in recent years he bought a classic Cheltenham caravan which had a rotten frame ugh and a pretty beat up 2CV but the CX is my own bit of crazyness.
    Heres a link to both of these
    Citroen 2CV by Mike Hannon | Photobucket
    Cheltenham Restoration by Mike Hannon | Photobucket

  11. #11
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Good luck with the pin.

    The door cards are one of the really dismal bits of CX design, especially Series 1 cars. The vinyl shrinks and pulls them out of straight. I have added minor "engineering" in the form of bent aluminium corner straps at the bottom rear of my otherwise perfect fronts, and tell people in plain language not to slam the doors! Two solutions I've seen and not done are to painstakingly peel off the vinyl, get them straight by soaking and then re-upholster or find some Series 2 door trims and make that work. I reckon they are awful things as the push-in clips can't overcome the warping forces.

    Ah, down there. That's a fair way from my Dublin cousins!

    I love my CX and am using it for commuting as much as I can - being a C-matic it just wafts through the Perth traffic.

    Best wishes for the restoration.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  12. #12
    Tadpole
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    Well detempered an SDS bit and drilled out a hole to receive the stuck clip today, I was racing to beat the rain which was forecast to come heavy in the afternoon, everything went smoothly the bit was a nice tight fit on the clip, gave it a burst with the drill just as the rains started and had to retreat. The drill bit looked a bit of a mess so ducked out with a brolly and the camera to get a pic of the result.
    Looks like I will have to lever the pin to see if I can grip it with the mole grips and if that does'nt work then I guess the arm will have to come off. Hopefully the rattling it got may have moved it a bit, I also gave it another shot of penetrating fluid. God I miss the sunshine, the weather here has been desperate, I only started working on the old lady in the expectation of some long sunny days. I think someone up there don't like me.[IMG][/IMG]

  13. #13
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Bugger. Have you thought about C-4 and a detonating cap?

  14. #14
    Tadpole
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    At this stage I'm thinking about a can of petrol and a match

  15. #15
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Make sure you insure it first.

    That would certainly dry it out ready for painting!
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  16. #16
    Tadpole
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    Quick question guys
    Just had a phone call from the brother, he is on his way to Listowel with a DS that he bought in the Netherlands and it sounds like he is in trouble on the road. He is about 200 miles up country with loss of compression and oil in the water. The car drove perfectly til he got off the boat in Ireland, and he then noticed loss of compression on hills. He is removing the thermostat as I write but is worried about airlocking when he refills. Any hints or tips to avoid this

  17. #17
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Not good! Sounds like the car has been standing for a while prior.

    I'd say that recovery is your least cost, least risk option; keep going and you may end up with so much emulsion of the oil it loses lubricating qualities and ruins the crank. Assuming he landed at Cork, it's a long haul with a wonky motor.

  18. #18
    Tadpole
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    Quite right Addo, car was indeed standing for a while,he is at a garage at the moment and I reckon he is going to nurse it down as he has made an appointment for tomorrow with his regular mechanic.

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! badabec's Avatar
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    Kill two birds with one stone and crash the DS into the CX, then strike the match (or it the fire next week?)

  20. #20
    Tadpole
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    Hi all
    Just an update on the DS / CX
    The DS has finally landed after a pretty comprehensive overhaul. see pics.
    The CX arm is coming off this evening when the stuck pin will receive suitable encouragement to depart.[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
    SLC206 likes this.

  21. #21
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Gorgeous. Good luck with the pin.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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