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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Default Sophie

    This car. 1972 DS 21, BVM, carb.

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    I guess I might as well start a dedicated topic, however good these cars are, they are neverending stories...

    After months of (sporadic) work I fixed the electrical woes, thanks to Hotrodelectric and others here, got her on the road to enjoy it, and... the clutch started slipping.
    So, after about a month of rather more intensive work, heat notwithstanding, I got the clutch (and other bits while I was at it) together. And got it on the road again, only to have my wits scared out of me because she was overheating. Badly.

    Luckily I found the problem The air duct has a swiveling thingy (attached to a little chain under the steering wheel) to close it in sub-zero temperatures, and, well... it was closed.
    That solved, tuned a few thingies, it's running (let's hope for a while) well.

    So hey,
    I now have a beautiful DS. Beautiful.
    The 2175 engine is... man, it's so smooth.
    The clutch though... do you think you could help me tune it?


    Difficult to explain, but it's not quite... perfect.
    Oh it works OK. Once it's engaged, it's just fine.
    But engaging and disengaging... uhmm... not quite.
    And gear changing, could be softer.

    Any hints/tips/been-there-done-thats?
    I set it to engage at the bottom of the pedal run. I like it that way, but maybe...

  2. #2
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    You might need to set the engagement just a little further up the pedal travel. The fingers in the pressure plate might need a little more room to work. You have the pedal height set correctly? Also- how old is the clutch cable? If it's original to the car, it might be stretched and just simply can't be set where it needs to be.

    At least you aren't suffering from the common RHD problem of a broken cable because it runs through a tortured path.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Cable looks good and I'm sure I have plenty of room to set it, and the pedal height, to whatever I want.
    Thing is, how to find which is best with the least effort

  4. #4
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    The D series clutches need full pedal travel to clear properly from my experience. I presume that the L/H drive cars have a similar actuating, pivoted lever on the bell housing which wears & cracks as on the R/H cars, so check that is conveying full pedal movement to the clutch rod.
    Richard

  5. #5
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    Hi,
    I think it's only the RHD manual cars that have the fragile pivot on the bell housing. A bit of a bodge in the conversion to RHD I think.
    Cheers,
    Ed

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    I guess there's no shortcuts.

    Another one.
    Anyone been-there-done-that with this?

    Because I guess those little balls are supposed to pump the water to the windshield by circularly pressing the tube.
    Except... they don't even get near the tube at all, way they are.
    Should I try a bigger one?


  7. #7
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Any inlet of air to the plastic housing and that you'll will just spin.
    There are lots of things to be sure of on the clutch parts before you put it all back together. My guess is you are not getting full release. A frayed cable, which is very hard to see and easier to fix will cause your problem. As also mentioned, the pivot on the Bell housing only goes one way. Go the other way and you might be fooked.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Long leg is cable end. There is also a bushing under the arm. If the arm shifts you will lose throw. Easy fix.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sophie-1437850582737.jpg  

  9. #9
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    Being a cheapskate, I packed out the tube with some thin plastic sheet. It was enough to push the tube nearer the balls...

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Well, as I mentioned in the other thread, you get those how-do-I-spend the-next-half-hour moments...
    I finally put (quite a few of) those to good use.
    Tried all sorts of things, re-conditioning the old tube with hot water, vises, rivets and drill bits, using other tubes...
    In the end I solved it by using a softish irrigation tube I had, which still wouldn't pump, and packing a piece of (a different) tube, cut with scissors to shape, on the outer rim.

    Pump is installed and working, sorry I don't have any pictures, but I didn't believe it would really work until I had it in place, so...



  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Now, that ugly white light thingy to the right of the clock, I would like to throw it away and put some sort of plastic cover in its place so I can then put some switches and things in it.

    I've tried to find a proper one, but could not. Suggestions, search terms... ?

    Or maybe Mr. ScotPrinterMan could draw one to print?


  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    OK, found it on ebay.fr. Plaquette, or platine, worked.

  13. #13
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don B. Cilly View Post
    OK, found it on ebay.fr. Plaquette, or platine, worked.
    Excellence. I would have gone with blanking plate, but whatever works.

    Don't toss the old one- some matt black plastic enamel and a little "chrome" foil intended for model kits works wonders.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Well,
    I got the plastic cover.
    It's coming along really well for my sound equipment


  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    I'll tell about the equipment... someone might get some ideas he likes.

    In my case it was pretty much a forced path.
    I had these cables on one side, and two really thick power ones on the other (which is good) going to the boot.



    At the back I had three rather ugly holes, which I solved thus:



    (The basket I had hanging around, used it just to see if it fit, it did, I like the high-tech/low-tech contrast, and it's handy).

    So I got me a cheap but decent amp for the boot and a couple of decent Alpine speakers:




    At the dash, I had an empty hole, which I filled:



    I then added a push-button switch with LED (see previous post) to turn the amp off when I don't use the car, and a volume knob for ease.

    Easy enough if you already have the cables from dash to boot, but even if you don't, not too difficult.
    Reasonably unobtrusive, sounds good

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! ScotFrog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don B. Cilly View Post
    Now, that ugly white light thingy to the right of the clock, I would like to throw it away and put some sort of plastic cover in its place so I can then put some switches and things in it.

    I've tried to find a proper one, but could not. Suggestions, search terms... ?

    Or maybe Mr. ScotPrinterMan could draw one to print?


    Sorry Don,
    Didn't pick up on this in time. Next time though....

    SF

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