Rear brake caliper bolts stuck C5 2003
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  1. #1
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    Default Rear brake caliper bolts stuck C5 2003

    I've started to replace the rear brake pads and discs, and after putting in a lot of muscle to get the calipers off, I can't remove the bolts from the caliper or screw the bolts back in. I need to basically put all my body weight into it with a breaker bar to even just twist the bolts in the caliper. Any tips?

    I've already tried the few suggestions on here but still had no luck.
    Rear Brake Caliper - Problems and Fixes - C5 - Citroen Owners Club. The citroen cars forums

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  2. #2
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    As discussed previously, that is the expected DIY outcome due to the Loctite coating the bolts.
    Try working the bolts back and forth, progressively removing them.
    Otherwise, you need a rattle gun or maybe a dealer's gorilla.

    Not sure about the suggestion of brake fluid then WD40 as I'm not sure if either would dissolve thread lock compounds. Henkel suggest only heat (250C) to soften the green Loctite you might find in there, but that may not be very kind to the caliper. No suggestion of a useful solvent and even if there was, how do you get it into the thread contact area? The Loctite is the problem here if they have never been off before. Rust in our climate is less likely.
    Last edited by David S; 8th July 2015 at 12:01 AM.

  3. #3
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    Thanks David, got the calipers off, but now can't put them back on! The bolts just spin around and not in. Has anyone done this by hand? Is this procedure only possible with an impact driver?

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    Have you tried a tap to clean the thread?

  5. #5
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    Mechanically remove enough of the Loctite so the bolts will slip though the holes in the calipers. Make sure they will properly screw in with the caliper out of the way. If not, then you would be looking at a thread cleaning or repair job to put it back together. Possibly tap the bolts a little to help start them off, but using an impact driver might damage the threads. You would want to apply some more Loctite on reassembly.

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    I had in mind a thread cutting tap to remove the glue, not percussion.

  7. #7
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    Agreed. By 'mechanical', I'd meant scraping etc. and use a tap/die if needed as opposed to the 'impact driver' idea.

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    Even locktite red will release after some heat is applied.
    But the question I guess is, can the assembly tolerate a quick heat to 550c?

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    Quote Originally Posted by garethb View Post
    Thanks David, got the calipers off, but now can't put them back on! The bolts just spin around and not in. Has anyone done this by hand? Is this procedure only possible with an impact driver?
    Hi garethb,
    I found that the bolts were very very tight in the caliper even when off the disc. So I put WD on them and worked them till they were removable from the caliper completely. Then cleaned them and the holes so they could be easily hand turned
    The combination of tight hole in alloy, steel bolt, and road dirt seems as good as the loctite on the threads.
    I would suggest anti seeze on the bolt shanks for the next time.
    Jaahn

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    Lots of WD40 and keep at it.
    I exhausted two blokes, myself and a mate getting the rear calipers off my C5 last week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dto be tortured!236 View Post
    Lots of WD40 and keep at it.
    I exhausted two blokes, myself and a mate getting the rear calipers off my C5 last week.
    My turn to be tortured! After 270+kilometres our C5 (series 1) has got a set of rotors!
    Why, why, why.
    Why are these bolts - the whole 150 mm of them fully encased in loctite? Took hours, but eventually they came out.
    With the use of round files and a drill bit, loctite mechanically removed sufficiently to enable bolts to be easily hand installed.
    Question? Do these bolts have to be enclosed in loctite, if so why?
    I simply loctited the threads.
    Did I do wrong?
    Regards John

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    Quote Originally Posted by JAJEA View Post
    My turn to be tortured! After 270+kilometres our C5 (series 1) has got a set of rotors!
    Why, why, why.
    Why are these bolts - the whole 150 mm of them fully encased in loctite? Took hours, but eventually they came out.
    With the use of round files and a drill bit, loctite mechanically removed sufficiently to enable bolts to be easily hand installed.
    Question? Do these bolts have to be enclosed in loctite, if so why?
    I simply loctited the threads.
    Did I do wrong?
    Regards John
    t

    PS: I believe that an over zealous assembler got the loctite real cheap!
    Last edited by JAJEA; 26th June 2019 at 07:20 PM. Reason: spelling correction

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    Loctite or corrosion from the alloy calliper ?


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  14. #14
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    No David. LOCTITE (242?)! I could not believe it. No room for corrosion.
    To remove the bolts, the thread of the bolts had to cut a thread in the loctite in order for each one to be "unscrewed from the caliper" after separating from the rear suspension metal work. DeWalt rattle gun could not do it. Actually, expanded the socket and started to stuff up the head of the bolt and hence decided to call it quits and manually, 1/4 turn at a time with a 450+mm extension plus the effort, they were removed.
    I've taken some photos of the loctite dust/shavings but sorry cannot attach photos (but happy to email or via MMS, if anybody is interested).
    I reckon it has to be a assembly stuff up, but would love to now, if that's what it was.
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by JAJEA View Post
    No David. LOCTITE (242?)! I could not believe it. No room for corrosion.
    To remove the bolts, the thread of the bolts had to cut a thread in the loctite in order for each one to be "unscrewed from the caliper" after separating from the rear suspension metal work. DeWalt rattle gun could not do it. Actually, expanded the socket and started to stuff up the head of the bolt and hence decided to call it quits and manually, 1/4 turn at a time with a 450+mm extension plus the effort, they were removed.
    I've taken some photos of the loctite dust/shavings but sorry cannot attach photos (but happy to email or via MMS, if anybody is interested).
    I reckon it has to be a assembly stuff up, but would love to now, if that's what it was.
    John
    I too have seen this insane method of assembly. It does serve to keep the two halves of the caliper housings aligned, as there is a small square section O ring that becomes an 'embedded" seal between the two halves..If only the two halves of the housing were bolted together at the rearward unsupported end then the Loctite assisted keeping everything aligned method would not be necessary. As mentioned above this not only prevents efforts to turn the bolts it also prevents reattachment. It may have one benefit in that being as perfectly sealed as they are in the evil Loctite there is less chance of corrosion along the steel and into the alloy castings. It is the sort of idea that earned M.Citroen his bad name among people who get dirty fingernails for a living and enthusiasts who should mint medals for having achieved the task .. bloody stupidity when replacement of the pads is the simplest thing ever. There was a time when brake discs lasted forever too. If the discs were better quality the whole procedure would not be necessary....ever. From personal experience there is variation in the pad materials available. Recent German made pads have been quiet, the previous Italian made pads squealed crazily. Brand name have evaporated from memory.

  16. #16
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    Citroen doesn't make brakes, or force the use of Loctite. Modern Cits use German suppliers,eg Teves, and are common to the German car makes.

    Disc iron is common also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Citroen doesn't make brakes, or force the use of Loctite.baffled with this oneCits use German suppliers,eg Teves, and are common to the German car makes.

    Disc iron is common also.
    Agreed, however "component suppliers" supply components to a design brief. I am baffled with this one.
    Easier ways of combating corrosion if that's the reason, crrtainly not as the loctite is injected after assembly via the 2 holes per bolt (one in each side of the caliper).

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Citroen doesn't make brakes, or force the use of Loctite. Modern Cits use German suppliers,eg Teves, and are common to the German car makes.

    Disc iron is common also.
    Agreed. The brakes are bought in. Is there any other manufacturer that uses this excessive Loctite method to secure calipers to a housing ? It is not just the threads that get the Loctite treatment but the entire depth of the caliper housing and bolt.
    The UK sourced link above suggests a method of chemically destroying the Loctite before dis assembly. I will have to keep that one in memory.
    Anyone know what the factory suggests ? I have not seen any workshop reference to those locating bolts.
    The front brake calipers are also found on SAAB cars I believe.

  19. #19
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    I loosened the upper bolt only and extracted the lower bolt enough to swing the calliper up enough to extract the disc and insert the replacement. That was bad enough.

    For the RHS I will attempt the rattle gun method at a friend's workshop. I don't relish going through that again.

    I hope the front discs are not as difficult to replace.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceenine View Post
    I loosened the upper bolt only and extracted the lower bolt enough to swing the calliper up enough to extract the disc and insert the replacement. That was bad enough.

    For the RHS I will attempt the rattle gun method at a friend's workshop. I don't relish going through that again.

    I hope the front discs are not as difficult to replace.
    Ceenine,
    I tried to respond a few days ago but phone app constantly went to the top and thus cheesed me off till now via desktop .
    Nevertheless, wondering how you went.
    When I do up/install nuts/bolts they have to be "two finger installed" thus ensuring no cross threading of threads and hence the reason that I had removed all loctite from both mountings when I recently replaced mine.
    As I could not think of a good reason to reinstall with loctite (I was quite happy that it was not an alignment issue as the bolts are a relatively tight fit, the transfer port between the two halves well and truly covered by the seal and in any case the loctite would have had to have been injected after assembly to have got that volume around the bolt), I simply used loctite only on the treads.
    I'm dreading the front - hope not similar.
    John
    Next oil change I'll inspect

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