XM Series 1 Rear Hatch Lock
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Thread: XM Series 1 Rear Hatch Lock

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default XM Series 1 Rear Hatch Lock

    Greetings to XM owners

    Having just acquired a 92 XM here (California) and getting things sorted out, something a bit peculiar has happened. The rear hatch has locked itself and will not release with the key. No sound of the lock mechanism working.

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    According to the info in the manuals one needs to have the hatch open to access the locking mechanism (some clips holding the rear light lenses in place have to be removed) - at least that is what I can gather. My question is - do any of the XM owners know of a way to access the locking mechanism from the inside with the hatch shut. Bit of a fiddle but I can go gain access with the rear seat folded down.

    Any help would be really appreciated.

    Steve

  2. #2
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    Hello Steve,

    Try holding down the hatch lid with one hand while you push the release lever with the other hand. I have to do this sometimes on one of mine.

    It looks like you can remove the inside covers for the rear light assemblies without the hatch open. This might give you some access, maybe room for a mirror. I can see screw points in the bottom outside corners of the inner cover panel but at this stage have no other clues as to how to remove it.

    Roger

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi Roger,

    Had already tried that - to no avail . Contacted Andre Pol (CXA had imported this car to the US) and Andre had not heard of this happening. He is checking with some others to see if there is a way of accessing that locking mechanism from the inside. Will report back with any info he has.

    Other than that am quite impressed with the car as a whole - forgot to mention that it is a 12 valve V6. Basic problem, right now, is getting it passed its 'smog test, in California so I can renew its license. Car has been off the road for a few year. Have recharged all of the suspension spheres and hydractive units. Still have to pull the brake accumulator and check it out, but preliminary testing seem to show it is OK. Going to be fun

    According to Andre, CXA only imported some 52 XM's into the US. And of those 52, two were crashed to satisfy our DOT that they met the, then, safety criteria. At this time Dave Burnham (in NY) has the two crashed XM's + a boat load of spare parts - which he is now trying to get rid of

    Steve

    Steve



    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    Hello Steve,

    Try holding down the hatch lid with one hand while you push the release lever with the other hand. I have to do this sometimes on one of mine.

    It looks like you can remove the inside covers for the rear light assemblies without the hatch open. This might give you some access, maybe room for a mirror. I can see screw points in the bottom outside corners of the inner cover panel but at this stage have no other clues as to how to remove it.

    Roger

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger
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    You should be able to just see the boot for the wiring harness at the top in the gap between the body and hatch. Try moving it in case there is a broken wire there after years of flexing back and forward. You may temporarily make the contact again. Worth trying before anything more invasive.

    You should have a look at the condition of the front strut tops before you think of driving it. Have they ever been changed or are they original? Later type mounts have a metal ring at the base to prevent them pushing through if the rubber lets go, while the original type are all rubber at the bottom. If the bottom of the mounts are oval, then they are close to failing. Bad news is non-availability of those parts. If the person in NY has some, consider buying a set, but they would likely be the original style.

  5. #5
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
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    An invasive option is to cut a square, 2 to 2-1/2 inches across, out of the centre of the top of the front face of the trim under the hatch lining. It's only about 1/8 inch think or less. Don't over-reach or you will cut the latch cover trim on the bottom of the hatch. This will allow you to get a wrench on the single cap screw head that holds the striker assembly and loosen it. Either glue the cut-out piece back into place or replace the trim.

    Roger

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    You should be able to just see the boot for the wiring harness at the top in the gap between the body and hatch. Try moving it in case there is a broken wire there after years of flexing back and forward. You may temporarily make the contact again. Worth trying before anything more invasive.

    You should have a look at the condition of the front strut tops before you think of driving it. Have they ever been changed or are they original? Later type mounts have a metal ring at the base to prevent them pushing through if the rubber lets go, while the original type are all rubber at the bottom. If the bottom of the mounts are oval, then they are close to failing. Bad news is non-availability of those parts. If the person in NY has some, consider buying a set, but they would likely be the original style.
    Hi Dave,

    Well aware of that problem. Hein Gijsen, a local CX owner and mechanic (works for a well respected foreign car repair facility in Ventura, CA - about 60 miles west of where I am) had replaced those units not to long ago for the former owners (got the replacements from Andre Pol). Have not taken a close look at them, but I think there is what appears to be a substantial metal ring on the upper side of each.

    Well take a look for that electrical boot cover and give it a jiggle.

    Thanks for the tip.

    Steve

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Citroenfan View Post
    Hi Dave,

    Well aware of that problem. Hein Gijsen, a local CX owner and mechanic (works for a well respected foreign car repair facility in Ventura, CA - about 60 miles west of where I am) had replaced those units not to long ago for the former owners (got the replacements from Andre Pol). Have not taken a close look at them, but I think there is what appears to be a substantial metal ring on the upper side of each.

    Well take a look for that electrical boot cover and give it a jiggle.

    Thanks for the tip.

    Steve
    Finally had time to investigate what was going on. Andre Pol had suggested that by removing the right side (left side looking from the rear seat) access cover one should be able to pull on the unlocking rod. When I did that - no rod . An additional problem surfaced in that the lock, itself, stopped working. In searching around with my fingers inside the access area I found this odd shaped metal rod just lying there. So I removed the inside cover - a bit of a fiddle as it was not really designed to be removed with the rear hatch shut. Once off I was able to move the locking mechanism and open the rear hatch. Now how that bloody rod came off entirely I will never know. I did find that the little friction washer in the second photo would not hold the rod securely in place. Right now it is taped. Will, when time permits, remove and drill a tiny hole at its tip so a really small strand of wire of cotter key can be inserted and prevent this from happening again.


    . XM Series 1 Rear Hatch Lock-dscf0231.jpgXM Series 1 Rear Hatch Lock-control-rod-1.jpg

  8. #8
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Just. In. Time.
    addo likes this.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  9. #9
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Epilogue:

    Well, the XM managed the trip successfully, except for that darn lock. Steve figured out that the door plip for whatever reason was actuating the lock function for the trunk, but refused to unlock it. Poor man, he had to reach into the trunk twice more to manually unlatch it. Fortunately, that didn't put much of a crimp into what was a fun weekend.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  10. #10
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    Bill is being to kind . Preface - this car has had a lot, I mean a lot, of hands in its guts over the years. Aside from the previous owner here in SoCal the tranny was removed and replaced with a used unit by a shop in the San Fernando Valley that really had no idea in hell what they were doing. The end result was that it took Hein Gijsen of B&C Auto (Hein is a CX owner) a lot of time and effort to get the bloody thing back onto running condition.

    After getting its smog certificate (required an CAT) Pauline, myself, and Bill took our collective wits and drove it up San Francisco over the past weekend. For the most part the car behaved well. The A/C worked just fine, though there is a leak out of the condenser - I suspect either the drain tube is clogged or just plan missing. One of the securing bolts for the steering rack (passenger side) decided that it really wanted to remain on Highway 17 (main route from San Jose to Santa Cruz). That made for some interesting noises and driving . Got that fixed in Lon's shop in Santa Cruz where the get together we had gone up for was held. On the way back to LA we hit a major July rain storm - just about unheard of in Southern California. Overall the car got just under 27 mpg (US) at an average speed in the mid 70's + a bit of town driving - total miles driven about 900 or so. Engine is quite strong - tranny is a bit 'notchy' (best way I can describe it) when shifting gears under full load. Additionally there is a high pitch 'whistle' when it up shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. Loudness is proportional to load (IOW easy or heavy throttle). Not sure what that is.

    On the + side the car is quite sure footed with lots of power. On the - side - it ain't a D in its ride quality - though it is not at all bad. And from a personal standpoint I do not find its seats as comfortable as those in a D. OTOH they do provide a bit more lateral support. I will say, though, we are not unhappy with the acquisition. Aside from sorting out some electrical issues what is on the agenda for the car is removal of the tranny and having it gone through by someone who really knows how to rebuild it.

    Steve
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