Citroen BX queries.
  • Help
Results 1 to 22 of 22
Like Tree11Likes

Thread: Citroen BX queries.

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    839

    Default Citroen BX queries.

    Hi all!

    I feel more at home in the Peugeot camp, and these questions are probably PSA applicable, but I thought I'd start my questioning off in the chevron end of town!

    Context: I have JohnW's old 1990 BX TZI Wagon. It runs the 1.9L DKZ engine.

    First niggle:

    Coolant leak! There is a short hose that runs from the thermostat into what looks like a distribution block? It has sensors in it.

    I have fitted a hose from a Landcruiser, cut down and squeezed with hose clamps. I'm not happy with it long term. Where can I get this hose? Is there somewhere I can look for a part number? Haynes is as useful as usual. EAI deny that they have the part, not even for a 205 GTI.


    Second niggle:

    Advertisement


    Dash backlighting. I pulled out the instrument cluster to fix some plastic squeaks (I was successful!), but after reassembly and a few days, I have no back lights in my dash. My heater controls still get the lights, controlled by the rheostat, but the dash doesn't. The dash lights used to be on with accessories of the ignition switch, which is different to my pugs, as they only get back lighting with the use of headlights.

    I replaced the fuse, no change. I pulled the cluster out again, and found a blown globe which I replaced, but it still won't work. What should I poke next to get it working?

    This doesn't bother me too much, but it can concern my passengers. I am also worried that if the police have a look, it'll mean an un-roadworthy sticker for the car (I live in an area where spot checks happen aplenty, and police are often in a bad mood).


    Third niggle:

    The upper steering column sits in an sheath. The column emerges from the sheath just before the universal joint. Is there meant to be some forward and backwards movement in the shaft within this sheath? I have about 1-2mm wiggle in the steering column. I believe this is responsible for some of the squeaks, as it allows the steering wheel to rub on the steering column's plastic surround.


    Fourth niggle:

    Petrol usage! I get 12L/100km. I AM in my 20s, so my right foot has a lot to answer for. But this feels a little high? I will be getting the injectors cleaned soon, but is there more I need to do?


    Thanks for any help in advance!

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Mungous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Re steering column: there's a white plastic bushing in the upper column support bracket that frequently slips out. If you remove the lower plastic cover under the steering column and lie upside down on the floor you should have a good view! The bushing is only lightly pressed into the housing, so can be easily tapped back in. Once in, I usually peen the edge of the housing to stop the bush falling out again.

    Alternatively, it could be the rubber coupling where the rack meets the column. These often crack and fall apart.
    Citroen BX queries.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1433382007.607183.jpg

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wagga Wagga
    Posts
    362

    Default

    Regarding water hoses, I take the old water hose to any decent auto parts supplier and find a hose off the rack that is the correct diameter and can be manipulated to form the wanted shape. This requires some imagination as usually you need to choose a hose that will be longer and need cutting and of different initial shape. Remember with water hoses, you can twist a hose to form the shape you want, but you can't bend it. Suggest you practice with some old radiator hose to get the picture.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    TRARALGON Vic
    Posts
    43

    Default

    I've had several BX's and from my experience the consumption ranged from about 6.9 to about 8.8 with the average just under 8 L/100k. Obviously changed depending on whether it was city, highway or mountainous tracks.
    The 16 valve had a greater variation both higher and lower, which makes sense - flog it and it drinks, take it gently and the increased valving was more efficient.
    It might pay to have a look at the fault codes.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    839

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mungous View Post
    Re steering column: there's a white plastic bushing in the upper column support bracket that frequently slips out. If you remove the lower plastic cover under the steering column and lie upside down on the floor you should have a good view! The bushing is only lightly pressed into the housing, so can be easily tapped back in. Once in, I usually peen the edge of the housing to stop the bush falling out again.

    Alternatively, it could be the rubber coupling where the rack meets the column. These often crack and fall apart.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1433382007.607183.jpg 
Views:	292 
Size:	45.2 KB 
ID:	70353
    Cheers, I'll have a look over the weekend. It seemed like something like that, but I didn't want to push too much with the light fading and my energy waning!


    Quote Originally Posted by moulton2speed View Post
    Regarding water hoses, I take the old water hose to any decent auto parts supplier and find a hose off the rack that is the correct diameter and can be manipulated to form the wanted shape. This requires some imagination as usually you need to choose a hose that will be longer and need cutting and of different initial shape. Remember with water hoses, you can twist a hose to form the shape you want, but you can't bend it. Suggest you practice with some old radiator hose to get the picture.
    I did a bit of learning with the landcruiser hose with the cutting and twisting, and it was definitely the closest size/shape my local repco/supercrap had. Is there a better go to place? I'm not too enamoured with the quality at these shops, but there doesn't seem to be much variation!

    I might go and get another hose to practice with though; I feel like I could have done a lot better with this hose.

    Though, I might just buy this or similar:
    Spoox Motorsport 205 / 309 Silicone Hose 8 - Spoox Motorsport


    Quote Originally Posted by rimzit View Post
    I've had several BX's and from my experience the consumption ranged from about 6.9 to about 8.8 with the average just under 8 L/100k. Obviously changed depending on whether it was city, highway or mountainous tracks.
    The 16 valve had a greater variation both higher and lower, which makes sense - flog it and it drinks, take it gently and the increased valving was more efficient.
    It might pay to have a look at the fault codes.
    It seems there are some more gains to had, which is good, because money is money!

  6. #6
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    11,302

    Default

    Hi - a few comments that may or may not help!

    Well done re the squeaks in the dash. I wasn't game to touch it for fear of making them worse. Can't comment on loss of lights, but I was always suspicious of earthing in there as the oil pressure gauge sometimes flickered a bit and, despite replacing the sensor with a new one, the oil temperature gauge has never worked.

    There once was an issue with the steering column and the flexor joint was replaced, maybe 6 years ago. I also replaced the whole steering column mount assembly from a wreck, as the one in the car had failed awkwardly in some way. I never really solved the problem of the wheel rubbing lightly on the housing, hence the glued-on felt pad.

    I'm a bit puzzled about the consumption, as I always had about 10 L/100 km. It is a wagon, not the usual hatch, but it just might be you are loving its sparkling performance! It had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned about a decade back!!

    Wheel, brochures and one other thing sitting here by the way. All yours. No rush.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  7. #7
    JBN
    JBN is offline
    1000+ Posts JBN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8,523

    Default

    I generally got 10 L/100 Km on the two BX TRi automatics and get the same on the Xantia 8v automatic.

    I admit I don't drive to save petrol. Rather I drive to get to the petrol station quickly.

    John

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    839

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Hi - a few comments that may or may not help!

    Well done re the squeaks in the dash. I wasn't game to touch it for fear of making them worse. Can't comment on loss of lights, but I was always suspicious of earthing in there as the oil pressure gauge sometimes flickered a bit and, despite replacing the sensor with a new one, the oil temperature gauge has never worked.

    There once was an issue with the steering column and the flexor joint was replaced, maybe 6 years ago. I also replaced the whole steering column mount assembly from a wreck, as the one in the car had failed awkwardly in some way. I never really solved the problem of the wheel rubbing lightly on the housing, hence the glued-on felt pad.

    I'm a bit puzzled about the consumption, as I always had about 10 L/100 km. It is a wagon, not the usual hatch, but it just might be you are loving its sparkling performance! It had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned about a decade back!!

    Wheel, brochures and one other thing sitting here by the way. All yours. No rush.

    Cheers
    I think I should be expecting similar performance to JBN; though I don't think anything has gone awry since you used the car JohnW! I'd imagine it'd just be my right foot that accounts for the difference in us!

    I thinnnnk I had oil temperature once. The oil pressure gauge appears to be wired in a strange way; the lights in that area are associated with some of the warning lights on the dash. I think these may have flickered in and out with hydraulic level warnings.

    That might explain the issues with the steering wheel; perhaps the replaced components just don't quite squeeze together the way Citroen intended any more.

    The felt was effective in easing the symptom, but I've gone in search of a more permanent solution. Though, I have also bought some of the finest felt Spotlight has to offer to replace the previous felt (it started to tear and bunch up).

    You are likely to see me closer to the end of June; I'll contact you via email!

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! Mungous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    335

    Default

    You can adjust the depth position of the steering wheel by loosening the pinch bolt on the column and pulling the steering wheel out a little. But if you pull it too far and your indicators won't self-cancel!

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    839

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mungous View Post
    You can adjust the depth position of the steering wheel by loosening the pinch bolt on the column and pulling the steering wheel out a little. But if you pull it too far and your indicators won't self-cancel!
    Sounds promising; what is the pinch bolt, and where is it?

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Mungous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    335

    Default

    About 10" from where the steering column goes through the floor there is a small Universal Joint. It clamps to the lower part of the column using an M8 bolt with a 14mm head (IIRC). Simply loosen the bolt, pull the steering wheel slightly, then re-tighten.

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,304

    Default

    One thing to also check that I found on our 19TRi. The subframe had cracked and was bending down pulling the steering wheel lower so it scraped. Not that unusual fault on BXs apparently
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    TRARALGON Vic
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Yer, FedGrapes 12 L/100 Km is way out of specs no matter how heavy your right foot is. Spent yesterday going to the snow. Before hitting the dirt road maintained over 100 Kph, then 3rd and 4th gear work and finally chains on wheels and several Kilometres in 2nd.
    The car is a 28 year old TRI manual, total distance of trip was 160 Km and the consumption was exactly 9 L/100Km.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    839

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mungous View Post
    About 10" from where the steering column goes through the floor there is a small Universal Joint. It clamps to the lower part of the column using an M8 bolt with a 14mm head (IIRC). Simply loosen the bolt, pull the steering wheel slightly, then re-tighten.
    Cheers for the directions. It become blindingly obvious once I was upside down again. Unfortunately, not much wiggle room on the shaft; I only gained 1-2mm here. Hopefully that is enough!

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg C View Post
    One thing to also check that I found on our 19TRi. The subframe had cracked and was bending down pulling the steering wheel lower so it scraped. Not that unusual fault on BXs apparently
    I'll have a look next time I get the car raised up. How obvious was the crack, and where there other symptoms?

    Quote Originally Posted by rimzit View Post
    Yer, FedGrapes 12 L/100 Km is way out of specs no matter how heavy your right foot is. Spent yesterday going to the snow. Before hitting the dirt road maintained over 100 Kph, then 3rd and 4th gear work and finally chains on wheels and several Kilometres in 2nd.
    The car is a 28 year old TRI manual, total distance of trip was 160 Km and the consumption was exactly 9 L/100Km.
    Good to hear. Thank you


    I took some photos to show what's been happening:

    This is the pipe that needs replacing. I have asked cams16v here, who is a NZ stockist of BakerBM.



    I found the issue with the lights. Most peculiar explanation of the failure. It also took me about 4 hours to trace all the wiring around the inside of the dash. On the upside, I have a much greater understanding of the loom, and where it all goes.







    In regards to the steering column, I was able to engage this rubber (bushing?) easily when the upper column was not bolted in. When I bolted it in, I was faced with the same issue of the rubber not engaging. I discovered that it can move up the shaft though, so I moved it up enough to hold the column steady.


  15. #15
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    11,302

    Default

    Ah, that hose.

    All good then in some areas. Did the work restore function to the two oil gauges?

    That bush on the steering would be the one someone earlier commented about peening over the steel tube to stop it sliding down. A dab of superglue might work too.

    I remain puzzled about the fuel consumption. Ideas include "are you carrying a full load of 0.5 tonne of bricks?" and "are the brakes dragging?" I'd head for an exhaust analyser and some electronic diagnosis. If you fix it you'll save the cost of the work with reduced fuel consumption in a year or two.
    Last edited by JohnW; 6th June 2015 at 04:15 PM.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    839

    Default

    My landcruiser hose is working as intended, but I don't feel it is a long term solution.

    Oil pressure is working as intended, but oil temperature is still a no show.

    I had the instrument cluster out again this morning after a test drive; I forgot to plug the speedo in last night! You don't need to take off the steering column's plastic housing to access the back of the instrument cluster, which was a god send. My first trip into the dash went along the lines of "the bolt is WHERE?!" to the most recent "The french sure were blessed with ingenuity".

    I'm usually carrying 50-100kg of music instruments and tools, but that's not half a tonne. I think some of the consumption may be related to the issue of stalling when returning to idle. They feel related to me.

    You had many a sensor replaced, didn't you John? How about the ECU? Was it ever reset or replaced?


    I have replaced the glove box with one of the spares too; however I started this endeavour last year before heading to Queensland for the summer, and I can't seem to find the contraption into which the lock latches. I do hope it is in a box, and not a bin from the moving process.

    I rewired the rear speakers that are on the parcel shelf. For some reason the original speakers have been bypassed. I do like the idea of not having to unplug the speakers every time I want to remove the parcel shelf, so I will investigate this more one day.

    All in all, the cabin is an improved place!

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! Mungous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FedGrapes View Post
    Cheers for the directions. It become blindingly obvious once I was upside down again. Unfortunately, not much wiggle room on the shaft; I only gained 1-2mm here. Hopefully that is enough!
    Fingers crossed! In my racecar I have it pulled all the way out, so far that it has actually improved the position of the steering wheel.
    In regards to the steering column, I was able to engage this rubber (bushing?) easily when the upper column was not bolted in. When I bolted it in, I was faced with the same issue of the rubber not engaging. I discovered that it can move up the shaft though, so I moved it up enough to hold the column steady.

    I assume that photo is the "before" shot? The entire plastic bush belongs inside the steel housing. I usually carefully use a small blunt punch/drift to relocate it.

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    839

    Default

    It is indeed the before shot. I tapped that bushing back up inside the housing. I will get down there with a punch to get it completely inside sometime soon.

  19. #19
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    11,302

    Default

    Excellent work on the joys of the dash.

    I agree, 100 kg won't mess the fuel consumption much. It always had the slight tendency to stall, and idled a bit roughly - there is a recessed brass screw that does something to do with idle but I'm not quite sure what! So yes, there's always been something not 100%, but it never changed and I guess we hadn't noticed fuel consumption with its light use in the last year or two we had it. I remain puzzled.

    The only things we ever had done, apart from that lamented clutch replacement and the rear trailing arm bearings, drive shaft boots and the usual stuff, were mostly not electrical. I replaced the oil temp sensor, to no effect and ten years back we had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. It just went, and went well. The last few years it wasn't used a lot as my daughter had a work car for a while, but I kept it moving from time to time, so it never sat for two years or anything like that. So it has original everything in the ECU/efi/sensor department, at least to my knowledge. Is the distributor correctly set I wonder? I still remain puzzled.

    Regarding the Land Cruiser hose, Repco sell steel coils designed to fit outside hoses, allowing straight sections to be bent into funny shapes - I have one for my spare carbie base heater hose for the R8 and it works OK. Might be the longer term answer for you.

    Cheers

    Quote Originally Posted by FedGrapes View Post
    My landcruiser hose is working as intended, but I don't feel it is a long term solution.

    Oil pressure is working as intended, but oil temperature is still a no show.

    I had the instrument cluster out again this morning after a test drive; I forgot to plug the speedo in last night! You don't need to take off the steering column's plastic housing to access the back of the instrument cluster, which was a god send. My first trip into the dash went along the lines of "the bolt is WHERE?!" to the most recent "The french sure were blessed with ingenuity".

    I'm usually carrying 50-100kg of music instruments and tools, but that's not half a tonne. I think some of the consumption may be related to the issue of stalling when returning to idle. They feel related to me.

    You had many a sensor replaced, didn't you John? How about the ECU? Was it ever reset or replaced?


    I have replaced the glove box with one of the spares too; however I started this endeavour last year before heading to Queensland for the summer, and I can't seem to find the contraption into which the lock latches. I do hope it is in a box, and not a bin from the moving process.

    I rewired the rear speakers that are on the parcel shelf. For some reason the original speakers have been bypassed. I do like the idea of not having to unplug the speakers every time I want to remove the parcel shelf, so I will investigate this more one day.

    All in all, the cabin is an improved place!
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! flipperman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
    Posts
    417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Ideas include "are you carrying a full load of 0.5 tonne of bricks?"
    Hey John you did "take" the bricks out when you sold him the car?
    CitroŽn's that own me

    - 2008 C5 X7 Tourer (Estate) 2.7 DoubleTurbo Diesel UHZJ - V6.

    CitroŽn's that formally owned me

    - 1990 BX TRI Estate Manual. .. . "Phoenix" - "Donated to Science"
    - 1990 BX TRI Estate Auto. (Traded In)
    - 1987 BX TRI Hatch.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
    Australian Citroen BX - All about the Citroen BX in Oz
    -------------------------------------------------------------

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,304

    Default

    As for the fuel consumption issues I'd lay money on it being the oxygen sensor. Being a 1990 machine we have Motronic injection. The other thing you could do is go over every plug in the injection system, remove, give them a squirt of contact cleaner and replace.
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  22. #22
    Ram
    Ram is offline
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Gayndah 4625
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Coolant Hose . I have an IPC downloaded. email me at auscanav@bigpond.com and I will print and scan the pic and P/ns and send to you. It is a 9MB file. Euroserve in Brisbane are a reliable supplier of new parts most original hoses can be found on the net.

    No Instrument Lights. Poor at the best of times, especially the LH segment. You have possibly knocked the Instrument Dimmer rheostat to low in removing the panel. It is located on the plastic cover under the steering wheel shaft, close to the bonnet release lever.
    Steering Column Looseness. Not right. The s/wheel to plastic shroud part clearance should be about 6mm and there is no movement in my steering column. It looks like it has been removed and incorrectly you really need a parts catalog. I recall the one I have came from an Aussie Frogs member who is I believe no longer with us.
    Fuel consumption. My 256000km wagon is consistent at 9.4 litres/100 mostly rural driving. Use spitfire cleaner in fuel and change spark plugs at 1500okm. Have had to change one only failed injector.
    Ram
    BX19TRI owner since 1989. Still have it, daily driver.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •