light 15
  • Help
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: light 15

  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Narooma NSW
    Posts
    5

    Default light 15

    Leak of coolant from water pump area where fan driven shaft enters . Is there special packing or washer to be replaced? maybe some Barsleak might reduce . Not happy to pull apart if needs hard to find washers or etc, doustk

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doustk View Post
    Leak of coolant from water pump area where fan driven shaft enters . Is there special packing or washer to be replaced? maybe some Barsleak might reduce . Not happy to pull apart if needs hard to find washers or etc, doustk
    it should drizzle out of the drain at the bottom (down onto the clutch so it can rust to the flywheel ). That way you shouldn't trash the pump bearing ....

    yeah, rebuild is what you want Whip it off, pull it down, it's all fun .....

    seeya
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,166

    Default

    There are two types of water pump. One has a lead seal and a screw down onto pack the seal onto the shaft. his type has a machined bushing that can be pressed out and replaced it is threaded to accept the seal packing nut. This is the early type. It is lubricated with a screw down greaser.
    The other later type has a plain sintered bronze bearing that is pressed into the pump housing. This bush must not be machined or the lubrication qualities will be destroyed. Lubrication is via an oiler on the top of the pump just above the bush. The seal is actually a separate spring loaded face seal that sits between the impellor and the machined surface of the pump body.

    In both cases it is often necessary to replace the pump shaft as it wears and corrodes. It is a high quality steel so manufacturing a replacement needs to take this into consideration. Some after market spares have shafts that are not hard enough
    The good news is that early Long stroke D series cars use the same pump seal.

    Repair and replacement of the sealing material ( Lead cord or face seal type), bush and shaft is your only course of action once the pump has started to leak. The ball race at the fan end is commonly available at any bearing supplier!

    To dismantle the pump remove from the car, then remove the fan pulley. Fit a protective nut onto the threaded end and tap the shaft rearwards. two locking half rings can be disengaged from behind the rear of the ball race shield. The shaft can then be pressed out enough to remove the front ball race. Then complete the extraction of the shaft and impellor!

    Spare parts are available from CTA in Holland or CTA Sweden!
    Cheers Gerry

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •