BX 16 Valve low pressure hydraulic returns and heater tap.
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Thread: BX 16 Valve low pressure hydraulic returns and heater tap.

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default BX 16 Valve low pressure hydraulic returns and heater tap.

    Evening all

    After a couple of years of procrastination, I'm getting the 16 Valve back on the road. I've got two major jobs: 1: fix the myriad low pressure return leaks and 2: make a new heater tap. The return lines that are currently giving me the heeby-jeebies are a set of three that run behind the crossmember from the passenger side suspension and steering rack return. One of the three pipes is leaking inside the plastic tube that keeps them together. I was planning on using 5mm fuel hose to replace the plastic tube altogther rather than trying to identify the faulty tube. Is there anything I should be aware of with this approach?

    For the heater tap, I've found that the original tap splits into two parts: the tap section and a section that carries the two heater pipes. I'm planning on making a replacement pipe section from copper or brass then bolting the new pipes back onto the tap section. Has anyone tried to do this before? Any tips? Or is there a simpler method of repairing the heater tap?

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    Cheers
    Duncan

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Mungous's Avatar
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    BX 16 Valve low pressure hydraulic returns and heater tap.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1429484176.889801.jpg
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  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    Cryptic. Got there in the end. You're suggesting I need to replace the octopus.
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  4. #4
    JBN
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    I think you are on the right track.

    With the return hoses, some have used plastic joiners as used for fish tank tubing. I have used Pirtek barbed brass joiners with fuel hose.

    The heater tap has always been an Achilles heel being made of plastic with two tubes extending into the hot engine bay. A metal one sounds good.

    John

  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    Thanks for the reply. Do you know if the octopus is still available? So far I haven't found a dealer in Melbourne that will answer the bloddy 'phone...

    I have found one here: 96030258 - LHM Return Harness (Octopus) but they're out of stock. Any suggestions?

  6. #6
    Tadpole
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    Woohoo! Got one! $120...
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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! flipperman's Avatar
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    Hey Duncan you put it in yet
    CitroŽn's that own me

    - 2008 C5 X7 Tourer (Estate) 2.7 DoubleTurbo Diesel UHZJ - V6.

    CitroŽn's that formally owned me

    - 1990 BX TRI Estate Manual. .. . "Phoenix" - "Donated to Science"
    - 1990 BX TRI Estate Auto. (Traded In)
    - 1987 BX TRI Hatch.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
    Australian Citroen BX - All about the Citroen BX in Oz
    -------------------------------------------------------------

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    Ummmm, no.

    I've cleaned what feels like 10 kilos of greasy muck off the crossmember and around the struts. I've removed the lower engine mount for better access near the heigh corrector. I've removed the strut return line clamps and got the hoses ready to pull through. I just can't work out where all the other short hoses go (Changing the CitroŽn BX octopus. (14/31)) so I haven't yet gone the extra step and pulled the octopus out completely.

    Any top tips on how to pull the engine a bit further forward to give a bit more clearance?

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! frog's Avatar
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    Just attaching a quote from the BXC forum, I think it's also written up in my car's thread here.
    Edit: When I talk about the right of the octopus i'm speaking as if you're sitting in the engine bay looking backwards (same orientation as the diagram below), when i talk about the car LHS means passenger as usual, confusing right?

    Quote Originally Posted by frog
    I'm just adding my write up as it's already all typed and for the aussiefrogs forum:


    All done! It took around 2 or 3 hours of actual work and probably another 3 hours of procrastinating/reading/thinking.
    It is not that hard once you actually start.


    I would recommend taking out the drive shaft on the drivers side as it does provide a lot more access; it can be done with out doing this, though I needed to replace the boot on the driveshaft anyway so it made sense.


    Also remove the small plastic wheel arch shroud that covers the crank pulley/aircon compressor.


    I started by removing the old octopus and cleaning up the area, taking note of the different routes, plastic sleeves, diameters of hard plastic pipes etc.


    I fitted the new octopus through the following steps:

    1. Using closed needle nosed pliers dipped in LHM, gently stretch and lubricate the internal openings of the new Octopus
    2. Feed the long pipe on the right of the octopus that goes off to the LH strut return into the sleeve along the subframe and place the Octopus pod in position under the height corrector
    3. Using long handled needle nose pliers push the hard plastic LH strut return pipe (Black 5mm) into the forward RH side of the octopus (as per diagram).
    4. Using pliers push the hard plastic priority valve return (White 4mm) into the other RH opening of the octopus (as per diagram)
    5. Feed the RH strut return pipe through the sleeve and onto its corresponding metal pipe.
    6. Feed the three tank returns up and around the engine/under the brake valve/through the sleeve on the chassis rail and onto the reservoir as per the diagram below. I marked each with tape so I knew where it fitted onto the reservoir
    7. Push the Hard plastic (Black 5mm curved) RH strut return pipe into the hole onto of the octopus.
    8. Working from the RH side of the car, sitting in the wheel arch with the view of the photo below: Connect the two hard plastic pipes (Rear height corrector 4mm and suspension return 5mm) to the corresponding points on the octopus. This I found the be the most difficult part of the process as access is limited. Use those long handled needle nose pliers!
    9. Connect the front height corrector return (small pipe that usually fails) to the height corrector.
    10. Cut the LH strut return pipe to length and fit to corresponding metal pipe on chassis.





    Octopus by tyro.chris, on Flickr
    If you follow the link to the flickr page I have added notes on the photo.



    Octopus by Y. Narabayashi



    Reservoir by Y. Narabayashi
    Last edited by frog; 7th May 2015 at 04:04 PM.
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  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! frog's Avatar
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    Also very interested to see a stronger heater tap. My car is running without one at the moment as it broke and winter is coming..

  11. #11
    Tadpole
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    Thanks frog! That's a massive help!

    I'll take lots of pics once I get started on the tap...

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! frog's Avatar
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    Also when I say long handled pliers i mean loooong
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  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! flipperman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frog View Post
    -
    If you don't have one of these you will always drop a washer where you short nose and short handle ones can't reach.

    CitroŽn's that own me

    - 2008 C5 X7 Tourer (Estate) 2.7 DoubleTurbo Diesel UHZJ - V6.

    CitroŽn's that formally owned me

    - 1990 BX TRI Estate Manual. .. . "Phoenix" - "Donated to Science"
    - 1990 BX TRI Estate Auto. (Traded In)
    - 1987 BX TRI Hatch.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
    Australian Citroen BX - All about the Citroen BX in Oz
    -------------------------------------------------------------

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