Replacing the dreaded RHS engine mount on a DS
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Thread: Replacing the dreaded RHS engine mount on a DS

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    Default Replacing the dreaded RHS engine mount on a DS

    Removing the RHS engine mount.
    After removing the necessary items, air cleaner, suspension sphere and the steering column. It is still a tight area to access. by disconnecting the accelerateor arm and releasing the bolts holding the base of the engine mounts, on both sides, you can jack up the engine, about 1-2 inches.
    Whilst it is still tight the top bracket bolt is easily accessible with a 14mm socket with a 2 inch extension. The two bolts securing the bottom of the bracket to the block can be released using a 14mm rachet spanner. Approach the front bolt from the back of the engine, sliding the spanner between the engine mount and the block, ( it's tight, but quite do-able ) from there you can manoeuvre the head of the spanner onto the bolt. Same goes for the rear bolt on the base of the bracket. If there is still not enough room to remove the mount and it's bracket between the exhaust manifold and the side wall, you can move the engine over, an inch should do it.
    I wanted to put this down, because it can be a tricky job, but one that makes a big difference to the car. If you only do it every 5-6 years, it's hard to remember what way to go, i have done it before but spent hours looking at it and trying different things before it finally came together.
    I hope this helps anyone else that has been putting this job off. If someone comes back with a simple way to do it, thanks in advanceÖÖÖ advice I could have used earlier.
    I won't bother going through the process for the LHS mount, that is comparatively easy.

    Hope this makes sense, I wanted to write it down for my own reference as much as anything.... I forget stuff like this.

    mb

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    Fellow Frogger! Don B. Cilly's Avatar
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    Pics... and advice on cutting a wrench to get to some places (in Italian, but translation is fair enough and, it's got pics

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  3. #3
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Thank you both for the write-ups.

    I'd always wondered if this was a job which might be approached differently on a hoist.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting. I can remember struggling with that many years ago back in the early 90s, and a lot of cursing and having to cut a 26mm spanner in half just to get the nut off.

    I replaced it because of loads of vibration noise coming from that side, but it made no difference. Then a wise old owl said to me, always replace the left hand side one first as its nearly always that one that fails! Did that in a few minutes and problem solved. He was a mechanic who'd worked on Citroens for 30 years at the time so I've always assumed he was right. Back then D's were cheap and you'd never think of replacing a mounting unless it had failed.
    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Try refitting chassis door rubbers if you want a challenge : ) just spent my Jesus time doing this, warning to anyone never take those rubbers out unless you absolutely must! ie tackling rust. I have a chopped up 26mm spanner myself : )

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