Drive Shaft Boot D Special
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Drive Shaft Boot D Special

    Preparing to remove suspension arms to remove the Drive Shaft so I could replace a torn boot; "LHS" advised me that this isn't required.
    After removing 2 phillips screws, the whole lot will "feed out" through the hub or Swivel (seems to be the proper term).
    I've been trawling through "Greenbloods" D Special Rejuvination thread to see if I could find any reference to doing this work, but no luck.
    I am used to working on my ID'eees but this job looks a piece of cake in comparison.
    Has the changeover of a late Drive Shaft Boot been covered in a thread?
    I have now found the instructions in the large DS Manual but any "local" knowledge might be useful.
    Thanks Michael

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  2. #2
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    Yes, the two screws will release it - check if they have a Posidriv or Philips head. The housing for the inner tri-axe will not pass through the hub bearing, so pull the shaft out of that housing, but perhaps mark it so it can go back together in the same orientation. It will be messy, but since you are changing the boots (do both), then there is nothing to lose by splitting it this way. You would need to remove the tri-axe (Press off and on) to replace the boots. Do you have Ligarex?

    p.s. This might also be a good time to change the two outer joints if they have had it - or change to a CV style shaft. Check the inner joint housing for grooves where the balls are in contact with it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Yes, the two screws will release it - check if they have a Posidriv or Philips head. The housing for the inner tri-axe will not pass through the hub bearing, so pull the shaft out of that housing, but perhaps mark it so it can go back together in the same orientation. It will be messy, but since you are changing the boots (do both), then there is nothing to lose by splitting it this way. You would need to remove the tri-axe (Press off and on) to replace the boots. Do you have Ligarex?

    p.s. This might also be a good time to change the two outer joints if they have had it - or change to a CV style shaft. Check the inner joint housing for grooves where the balls are in contact with it.

    The Cit (original system) is a double Hooke joint or double Cardan joint and is, in fact, a constant velocity joint. Its downside is its weight and construction costs. The upside is that it allows a greater off-axis angle compared to the Repezza style CV shafts that are in the after market (42 degrees compared to a nominal 38 degrees). This is what accounts for a D's very tight turning radius compared to any other car with its wheel base length.

    As a D uses unequal length drive shafts the wear pattern in the Tri-ax housing from the drive tends to be in different areas. Just switching the drive housings side to side moves the worn area to a different area relative to the Tri-ax and puts them in the braking position which changes that position even more. The other thing to keep in mind is that far more force is applied to the Tri-ax during hard braking than is ever applied during acceleration.

    What will cause that double Hooke joint to 'wear' out is running the car with the Nylon protector cups missing on the Hooke joints. As well as not having a good rubber protector covering the joint area. I have some 638,000 + miles on my 72 and it still has the original drive components. Nothing wrong with the Hooke joints, though I did replace the Tri-ax housings with good used ones a few years ago.

    Steve

  4. #4
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    Interesting info Citroenfan. Yes David S, It has 2 philips head screws. and I do have ligarex. I'll take it slow.
    I'm hoping DS Motors has a boot as I need to make a trip up to QLD next week.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Triaxe housing will fit through swivel, I refitted mine awhile ago no problems, just with some juggling, to get boots on press shaft off, fit boots, (this is the hard part I found) put back together, mark the triaxe housing against where it came off, pump grease into the shaft, clean first etc, make sure you have clips and teflon covers on joints, check wear on triaxe housing, I think it has a specific amount of grease in there, 210g?
    Drive Shaft Boot D Special-screen-shot-2015-03-20-9.33.49-am.jpgDrive Shaft Boot D Special-screen-shot-2015-03-20-9.34.35-am.jpg
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 20th March 2015 at 12:08 PM.

  6. #6
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    It is not all that hard to remove the tri-ax from the shaft so long as you remember to remove a quite substantial C clip that is right against its outside face . Any decent three armed puller will do the trick. Then replacing the inner and outer boots is a snap.

    A bit less than a 1/4 kilo of good, moly based hp grease goes inside the housing. Use the same basic grease in a gun to lube the needle bearings in the CV joint. The only real problem with the whole job is that it is MESSY OTOH keeping those covers in good shape and periodic change out of the grease in the housing as well as scheduled greasing of the needle bearings in the CV joint will ensure the units last a long, long time.

  7. #7
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    It has been around 24hrs and I feel much more confident to tackle this job. You've all been great with your advice. Just sold an early ID to a fellow just south of Ballarat. A paddock car that was too good too wreck. I'm so happy that it has been saved. Having to deliver it means I've run out of time to tackle this job before leaving for QLD.
    I've noticed that the ball joint is worn on the steering arm where it meets the "hub". Maybe, it's called the tie rod. I'm wondering if I can buy a new one.
    Having so many ID parts, I can always find a replacement when repairing my ID ees but The D Special is something else. I'll drop in at DS Motors in Brisbane and buy the driveshaft boot there.
    Both front suspension boots are also "shot" so there's a bit of work to do.
    This was the car I had up for sale but after fitting the reconditioned steering rack, it's got the better of me.
    The D Special is such a fun city car with it's responsive power and low down gearing compared to the "Longlegged" ID.
    I'm digressing again.
    It's a disease isn't it --- owning these Citroens ----- Michael

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    .... Just sold an early ID to a fellow just south of Ballarat. ...
    Has Shane bought another one? I expect he'll be wanting another ID for the 2015 Christmas decorations at the front gate!


    The tie-rod and boots will be available:
    Citroen-DS-11CV-HY / DS / steering rods
    Obviously, not the only source and good used may be enough.
    Fortunately, the $A weakness is mainly in terms of the strong $US, but it's holding up well against the Euro for the moment.

  9. #9
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    I can see that I'll have to be dragged into the 21st Century! I usually front up to the counter with someone on the other side saying; what can I do for you Sir? Oh well, you never know, DS Motors might just have a tie rod. I'll ask them first, plus the other parts might be on the shelf behind.
    No --- Shane hasn't bought this early Heidelberg ID although the elderly gentleman that has, lives only a few minutes away. He doesn't seem daunted by the project ahead of him. He has recently restored a two and a half Litre Riley. Also a P4 Rover and a Humber Hawk.
    Thanks again Michael

  10. #10
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    Hello, Michael You don`t need to remove anything to replace drive shaft boot. I have replaced mine. I used split boot, the ones uses super glue. It was so easy job!
    I recommend it!
    Split Drive Shaft CV Boot KIT Universal From Bailcast | eBay

    Of course I used original Citroen strap to tie them.


    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    Preparing to remove suspension arms to remove the Drive Shaft so I could replace a torn boot; "LHS" advised me that this isn't required.
    After removing 2 phillips screws, the whole lot will "feed out" through the hub or Swivel (seems to be the proper term).
    I've been trawling through "Greenbloods" D Special Rejuvination thread to see if I could find any reference to doing this work, but no luck.
    I am used to working on my ID'eees but this job looks a piece of cake in comparison.
    Has the changeover of a late Drive Shaft Boot been covered in a thread?
    I have now found the instructions in the large DS Manual but any "local" knowledge might be useful.
    Thanks Michael
    1961 Citroen ID19(2010~), Holden Frontera(R.I.P 2002-2014), Honda Accord EURO(2006~)

  11. #11
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    Thankyou for the split boot information Kazu. I assume you used it for the ID drive shaft. Nobody stocks them anymore ,well not in Bendigo. I was told to look on the internet. When doing my ID a couple of weeks ago, I fitted a driveshaft that still had a good boot from my Safari wreck.
    BUT --- This thread has been about changing a driveshaft boot on my D Special and that certainly is a different matter.
    Michael

  12. #12
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    Just hijacking this thread a bit...

    The inner CV boots on my DS have both split and need replacing, yet I'm not sure if my car (a 1970 year model DS21 built in 1969) has the older style hubs that need the suspension arms detached and tri-axle split, or the newer design that can slide out through the hub once the screws are released. I just want to make sure before I start this job so I can set aside enough time and get the necessary tools/boots ready.

    Some photos of my hub and tri-axle are below.

    Drive Shaft Boot D Special-img_0984.jpgDrive Shaft Boot D Special-img_0982.jpg

    Thanks

    David

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