2001 c5 hdi 2L won't start after fuel fill up
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Thread: 2001 c5 hdi 2L won't start after fuel fill up

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    Default 2001 c5 hdi 2L won't start after fuel fill up

    i filled it up with diesel, but accidently left the ignition on, when it was full i tried to start but it turns over but no fire, need help quick please have checked the fuses all good,

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    Does it cough and/or catch on aerostart?

    Have you primed the system?

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    Was it stupidly low, ie empty when you stopped? If it has air in the system now you'll see the bubbles in the line near the filter. Prime.

    I hope you haven't filled it with a load of water. The bleed for that is at the bottom of the filter.

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    Hi - We assume that your vehicle was operating correctly without any faults prior to filling up. Silly question - You did fill up with Diesel, not petrol?

    Was it very low on fuel? However, if you drove it into the (I assume) service station, and filled it with the correct fuel, there is no apparent reason it shouldn't start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Does it cough and/or catch on aerostart?

    Have you primed the system?
    i haven't tried aerostart, the guage was 1/2 way between E & 1/4
    it didn't even cough, it usually starts immediately
    i did fill it really full

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    i only had diesel, it ran perfectly before i stopped it to refuel

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    i will prime it anyway what are the instructions please

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    At a wild guess - here is something from left field. I had an issue with Mrs Whippets 307 HDi, soon after we acquired it second hand. It would crank, seemingly quickly enough, but wouldn't start, there was a "chime" from the dashboard that alerted of an issue. It completely resolved after I fitted a new battery. Seems the controls system is sensitive to battery voltage threshold.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Whippet View Post
    At a wild guess - here is something from left field. I had an issue with Mrs Whippets 307 HDi, soon after we acquired it second hand. It would crank, seemingly quickly enough, but wouldn't start, there was a "chime" from the dashboard that alerted of an issue. It completely resolved after I fitted a new battery. Seems the controls system is sensitive to battery voltage threshold.
    thanks whippet, i had a new battery fitted 7 days ago but i will charge it

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    It may 'come good' when it cools down. Haven't seen this happen to a Pug, but we had a Magna that would intermittently refuse to start when hot. It was traced to a relay that controlled both spark & fuel, but only while starting . Once the relay cooled down, it started to work, which means no mechanic ever saw it misbehave. Only took an hour or two to cool down each time .

    No-one seems to think that leaving your ignition on would have caused the problem, but it begs the question as to why it was on - ie did the car cut out just as you reached the bowser?

    Alternatively is it possible the battery is not being charged properly? How long did the previous battery last?

    Cheers

    Alec
    Last edited by Armidillo; 12th March 2015 at 11:08 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Armidillo View Post
    It may 'come good' when it cools down. Haven't seen this happen to a Pug, but we had a Magna that would intermittently refuse to start when hot. It was traced to a relay that controlled both spark & fuel, but only while starting . Once the relay cooled down, it started to work, which means no mechanic ever saw it misbehave. Only took an hour or two to cool down each time .

    No-one seems to think that leaving your ignition on would have caused the problem, but it begs the question as to why it was on - ie did the car cut out just as you reached the bowser?

    Alternatively is it possible the battery is not being charged properly? How long did the previous battery last?

    Cheers

    Alec
    i don't think it was really hot i drove it less than 100m , i replaced the battery as it was original 14yrs old, i left the ignition on due to getting diesel all down the side of the car, when it overflowed the filler nozzle shuts down to slow, i was hoping to see the guage when it was full and save the mess.

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    It has an electric fuel pump does it not? Inspect the fuse box / relay unit in the engine bay and see if there are any burnt terminals. That was a common issue on the early C5 HDi and would prevent it from starting. It may just be a coincidence.
    Early models also have a habit of not starting after you've had the battery disconnected. Lock and unlock the car and it should start in that situation. Otherwise, who knows? Perhaps, try the 2nd key?

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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    It has an electric fuel pump does it not? Inspect the fuse box / relay unit in the engine bay and see if there are any burnt terminals. That was a common issue on the early C5 HDi and would prevent it from starting. It may just be a coincidence.
    Early models also have a habit of not starting after you've had the battery disconnected. Lock and unlock the car and it should start in that situation. Otherwise, who knows? Perhaps, try the 2nd key?
    Thanks i will check it out

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    Quote Originally Posted by 306frog View Post
    Thanks i will check it out
    no burnt terminals , fuel arriving to fuel filter, and unlocked using remote ....... still no go

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    So the injectors are not firing. Sounds like it's self-immobilised.

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    Just trying to establish the exact sequence of events. Did it ever start and drive after the battery was changed?

    I am presuming you didn't swap the battery while the motor was running.

    Also, for giggles, can you please check the cam belt is not broken.

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    So the injectors are not firing. Sounds like it's self-immobilised.
    it could be what is the fix??

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    battery was in service for a week, everything operating fine, the belt is fine and it runs on start ya barstard great, i've changed the fuel filter the diesel pump seems to work on the return fuel line but there's not much in the common rail, is there a solenoid that shuts the rail off?

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    inspected the fuse box all in good order

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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    It has an electric fuel pump does it not? Inspect the fuse box / relay unit in the engine bay and see if there are any burnt terminals. That was a common issue on the early C5 HDi and would prevent it from starting. It may just be a coincidence.
    Early models also have a habit of not starting after you've had the battery disconnected. Lock and unlock the car and it should start in that situation. Otherwise, who knows? Perhaps, try the 2nd key?
    i have not found any burnt terminals it all looks as new

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    i really would like to follow up the possible immobilizer fault ... is there a diesel pump wiring diagram? so i can by pass the immobilizer

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    Glow plug issue perhaps? Read the first post on this page:
    Diesel starting problem
    On the previous page there is also a comment about bleeding the fuel rail as a possible fix.

    I'd even try removing the fuel cap in case overfilling it is somehow preventing the tank venting and is affecting the pump. That's a long shot, but costs nothing.

    Have you tried a second key yet?

    The burnt connectors I was thinking of would be on the hidden pins of one of the multiplug sockets connecting to the engine slave unit (relay/fuse box).

    2001 c5 hdi 2L won't start after fuel fill up-c5_hdi_fuse_sml.jpg

    Forget about playing with the electronics until you have exhausted other issues. You'd start start by having someone with a scantool (Road service patrolman?) read the faults. You will not be able to bypass the immobiliser as the injection ECU will be the locked component.
    Last edited by David S; 14th March 2015 at 09:21 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Glow plug issue perhaps? Read the first post on this page:
    Diesel starting problem
    On the previous page there is also a comment about bleeding the fuel rail as a possible fix.

    I'd even try removing the fuel cap in case overfilling it is somehow preventing the tank venting and is affecting the pump. That's a long shot, but costs nothing.

    Have you tried a second key yet?

    The burnt connectors I was thinking of would be on the hidden pins of one of the multiplug sockets connecting to the engine slave unit (relay/fuse box).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Forget about playing with the electronics until you have exhausted other issues. You'd start start by having someone with a scantool (Road service patrolman?) read the faults. You will not be able to bypass the immobiliser as the injection ECU will be the locked component.
    yep have tried 2nd key
    i took off the multi wire sockets and they are clean as new
    i did notice that when you press the lock button on the remote, the indicators stay on for a few seconds instead of flashing

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    Normally, lock on is one long blink, lock off is multiple flashes. Where in Tassie are you?

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    whitemore

    it used to be 3 fast flashes for lock

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