SM wheel alignment
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Thread: SM wheel alignment

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! deesse's Avatar
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    Default SM wheel alignment

    Hi folks,
    The other day I noticed the tread on my front RH tyre has worn on the inside edge and presume I need an alignment.
    Has anyone had a wheel alignment done on an SM or DS as I imagine the job would be similar.
    Is there a place in Melbourne experienced at this job.
    Thanks in advance.
    cheers Tony

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  2. #2
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    I hope you fix that before extracting my $3K !!!

    Seriously though, have you checked the balljoints for wear? A worn bottom balljoint is often the cause of a scrubbed out inside edge. I'd expect that like the DS, you would be pretty much stuck with the camber and the castor will be set via shimming the arm bearings. So, it would come down to the toe setting, which you could roughly check with a tape measure.
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    Default Alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    I hope you fix that before extracting my $3K !!!

    Seriously though, have you checked the balljoints for wear? A worn bottom balljoint is often the cause of a scrubbed out inside edge. I'd expect that like the DS, you would be pretty much stuck with the camber and the castor will be set via shimming the arm bearings. So, it would come down to the toe setting, which you could roughly check with a tape measure.
    Hi-Speak to Joe @ Sims Motors-Prentice St Brunswick 9381 2366.
    He will not give you a bum steer.

    Pekay.

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    Keep in mind that toe-in or toe-out does not affect just one of the tires. Both are affected. If only one tire is worn then the problem is elsewhere.

    Steve

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    Heka are set up to do a wheel alignment. I have had Robert set up 2 cars and both times I remember driving away being very happy.

    mb

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Looseness in the relay shaft will also cause the tyre to scrub! Also check the tie rod ends and relay ball joints. They wear on Ds so I guess the will also on an SM. Probably at an advanced rate from a D given the extra weight of the vehicle!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Worth checking the bosses on the engine side of the suspension arms, clean them up and check for any hairline cracks. They can be welded up in situ if they're cracked, unlike on the D. Also I'd check the 14mm clamp nuts are tight at the end of the steering rack too. But ball joints and play in the track rod or steering relay on that side are more likely.
    Cheers, Marc.

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Don't forget this has Diravi steering so wheel alignment will need to take account of straight ahead tracking position. I don't know if there is a drift adjuster for the SM as there is in a CX.

    Cheers,

    Ken W

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    Toe-in is the same regardless of wheel position, though adjusting toe-in can change the straight -a -head position. And, yes, the SM has an adjusting collar for that. But as mentioned above, if only one wheel/tire (not both) is being affected the problem is not toe-in. If both are affected to the same relative degree then the toe-in setting would be the first suspect. OTOH if the wheel/tire affected has been crammed into a curb or hit a nasty pothole then the problem, typically, is a bent suspension arm. Worn ball joints/control arm pivots and relays will also, normally, provide a bit of 'imbalance' or feeling of wheel imbalance at speed.

    Steve
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    You can BEND SM suspension arms I thought they were similar to a DS arm .... I can't see how you could *ever* bend one of them!
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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    If you can bend a traction lower arm then you can bend an arm on a D or and SM. I have seen bent lower arms on a traction. I did not think it possible but the owner of a particular Big 15 managed it. Names withheld for privacy sake!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    You can BEND SM suspension arms I thought they were similar to a DS arm .... I can't see how you could *ever* bend one of them!

    SM arms are identical to the D - just reversed in mounting - with D's the arm basically forms a leading arm geometry, the SM a trailing arm geometry. And not all that hard to bend if you hit a curb hard enough or a pot hole at speed in a corner. OTOH in many cases they can be salvaged by pulling them out. Keep in mind that that the weight of the car can produce a lot of force on those units if applied in the right direction .

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Citroenfan View Post
    SM arms are identical to the D - just reversed in mounting - with D's the arm basically forms a leading arm geometry, the SM a trailing arm geometry. And not all that hard to bend if you hit a curb hard enough or a pot hole at speed in a corner. OTOH in many cases they can be salvaged by pulling them out. Keep in mind that that the weight of the car can produce a lot of force on those units if applied in the right direction .

    Steve
    Contrary to popular opinion, SMs and Ds do not have leading arm/trailing arm geometry at the front. This geometry is where the pivot axis of the suspension link is at right-angles to the longitudinal axis of the car, such as on the rear suspension of the SM and D. SMs and Ds have front geometry akin to wishbone type where the pivot axis is parallel to the longitudinal axis. Now where did I put my anorak?
    roger

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    Quote Originally Posted by lhs2.1 View Post
    Contrary to popular opinion, SMs and Ds do not have leading arm/trailing arm geometry at the front. This geometry is where the pivot axis of the suspension link is at right-angles to the longitudinal axis of the car, such as on the rear suspension of the SM and D. SMs and Ds have front geometry akin to wishbone type where the pivot axis is parallel to the longitudinal axis. Now where did I put my anorak?
    roger
    Hi Roger - in the strictest sense you are absolutely right. I used that 'analogy' to point out that the SM and D use the same units - they are mounted in reverse to each other. Factory did so for a couple of reasons and no reason to go into it here. OTOH the basic problem with them - and not really a problem, just a fact of life I (if you will), is that they can be damaged if out side force is applied in the right direction. Takes a bit, but does happen. Over the course of some 50+ years of D/SM ownership I have, personally, bent a couple myself .

    Steve

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    Fellow Frogger! deesse's Avatar
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    Thanks for your advice men.
    Pekay, thanks for your tip. I headed down to Sims motors and met Joe. He put the car up on the hoist and felt for movement in the front wheels. The RH wheel (the one with the worn tyre) had some side to side play. he then followed the course of the mechanical linkage until he found a loose nut on the arm on the RH side of the the rack. He tightened that up and said that that removed about 80% of the play. He said the looseness may have worn the bush on the shaft that the arm was bolted to. Charged me less than $50. Pretty happy with that. Joe seems like a nice guy and we reminisced about R16's having both been transported by parents about in them as youths. I will investigate the bush and probably have to get a couple of new michelins. They are about 15 years old and despite having good tread, show signs of perishing and of course wear on the inside edge of one.

    cheers Tony

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    skp
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    Also check the rubber bush on the steering arm at the centre of the rack. Same as a DS.
    skp

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