Refitting DS stainless roof trim stips
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Thread: Refitting DS stainless roof trim stips

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Dave Rogers's Avatar
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    Default Refitting DS stainless roof trim stips

    Hi, I'm nearing the completion of the DS repaint and am fitting the stainless roof trim strips that go around the gutter. I need some help please from somebody who has successfully completed this job. I have new rubber gutter seal and I'm getting buckles in it on the corners. I've tried beginning with the two sections that go around the front and meet in the middle of the windscreen and hope to work my way backwards towards the trumpets. but with this approach Im finding that I can't get them forward enough to position the locating bolt that goes under the gutter just rear of the A pillar.
    Refitting DS stainless roof trim stips-img_2687.jpg
    Refitting DS stainless roof trim stips-img_2685.jpgRefitting DS stainless roof trim stips-img_2686.jpg

    Also using this method seems cack-handed as it's then difficult to insert the long sections above the doors as they need to slide under the front corner pieces. I'm wondering if it's better to start at rear of each side and work my way forward. Advice please.

    I suspect my problem is arising because the new rubber is thicker than the original plastic strip that came off the car. I battling to get any of the trim to snap home and I can certainly see the attraction of leaving the rubber out all together at instead filling it with black mastic, as I have seen on many cars. But I'd like to have as near as possible to the original as I can get it.

    My intention is to get the finished product to Cit-in this year.

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    Cheers,
    Dave
    74/75 DS23 Pallas 5 Speed Carby

    83 2CV Charleston

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    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Dave,
    You're way ahead of me but my research suggests this method should work . . .

    Start by running double sided tape (the thin stuff) around the outer edge of the cant rail.

    With the outer rubber trim, set to the tape starting at the front centre, as you move to the front corners stretch the rubber so that it now clings to the roof to avoid the buckling.

    For the stainless, fit the two side sections first, you will need to have marked the start position so that the front sections and trumpets overlap equally when fitted.

    Let us know how you get on

    Cheers
    Chris
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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! ScotFrog's Avatar
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    Default Stainless strip

    Timely thread.
    The roof on Sue has been at sometime replaced and the previous custodian probably tried to do this single-handed. As a consequence one side is good and tight but the opposite side has a gap between the rubber seal and the roof surface which has been filled (badly) with mastic.
    In order to try and minimise this gap, previous custodian took to the long stainless strip with a soft mallet. Not really obvious but this strip now ripples along its length.
    I intend to take off the roof before painting and when I come to refit it I will have plenty of assistants on hand.
    The reason for my post is to seek a replacement (straight) stainless strip to make the job 100%. or swapsies obviously on the table, not necessarily looking for a freebee.

    SF

  4. #4
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    A truly annoying and frustrating job with a glued on roof. An imperfect roof rail repair could make fitting everything correctly very difficult indeed. The stainless side strips are the main drama and they are very easily dented, so do NOT use a mallet to encourage them. Hands only. I think the only way is to clip them on from the top first and then work around under the rail.

    The rubber strip is not a sealing strip on a late car, although it may provide a first line of defence against water ingress. It's really just there for looks and to retain the stainless. It compresses and rolls in as the side strips are pulled down, worked inwards and then secured over the lip in the underside of the rail. It can be very difficult to pull the strip down as the rubber provides a lot of resistance. If it does not clip over the lip underneath, it will spring off OR you have opened out the section so it is misshapen. If bent, you can easily 'close' it a little by hand so that it will eventually engage over the lip. It may scratch the paint on the underside of the rail, so a little very thin clear tape could help there. For the next time I deal with this, I'm going to modify a pair of pliers / grips to pull the strip down relative to the rail without doing any damage, but the load needs to be spread to avoid denting the stainless.

    You must fit the two side strips before the chip holders and front corners. There will be witness marks to show you where they were rubbing originally and you need to refit exactly in the same place or those will show later. Everything is sided but the side strips look similar, although they are not. The rubber needs to be stretched enough to make it lie flat around the front corners and you also need to leave a little spare at the back to taper off behind the chip holders. What I ended up doing was leaving the front part of the rubber loose, rather shorter than required to just sit there, while the side strips went on. At the back, I think I had to trim the lip off the strip so it sits against the C-pillar cover.

    If you have filled your gutter rail flush with sealant when fitting the roof panel, you have no hope of fitting the rubber or any of the stainless parts. There needs to be a recess exposing the steel rail edge and I think this is even noted in the manual. This allows the lip of the rubber strip to sit on the gutter edge and roll inwards when the stainless trims is fitted. If it's not adequate, then you will never get the sides on with the rubber strip in place and forcing the front corners will kink them.

    Don't forget you have to remove the bolts from the roof supports at the top of the A-posts to get the stainless corers on. Start at the sides, line up the hole and work them on towards the middle. Another hassle with a Pallas is unclipping the headliner surround for access to the bolts, which can be a little difficult and clips can snap off.

    If there is a simpler way, I'd be happy to be told!
    Last edited by David S; 18th February 2015 at 06:55 PM.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    An extra pair of hands would be highly advantageous. The strips need force to get them to behave.

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    Fellow Frogger! Dave Rogers's Avatar
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    Thanks Chris and David,

    Yes you've confirmed that starting with the side rails first is the way to go, I'll attempt that tomorrow. And Chris the idea of thin double sided tape is brilliant, Ta. David the roof was not removed in the repaint as it was entirely watertight and frame completely rust free so I have stacks of depth on the cant/gutter rail on which to seat the rubber. I'll report as to how I get on.

    Cheers,
    Dave
    74/75 DS23 Pallas 5 Speed Carby

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    03 Peugeot 406 Hdi
    01 Renault Scenic

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    Fellow Frogger! deesse's Avatar
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    Pleased to see what looks like a new paint job, yippee.
    cheers Tony

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    Thank you Froggers for all relevant information. I've cut and pasted this into a diary note for reference when I come to do it.
    Still no stainless strip offers from Donor cars however.

    SF

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    For which side? They are different left and right.
    Could also be a problem to post due to length exceeding the 105cm postal limit.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! ScotFrog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    For which side? They are different left and right.
    Could also be a problem to post due to length exceeding the 105cm postal limit.
    Left (near side) per picture. As you can see not overly obvious but my eye won't leave it alone!
    Are there other courier options apart from Australia Post?Refitting DS stainless roof trim stips-raildimples.jpg

    SF

  11. #11
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    Possibly e-go.com.au instead of AusPost.
    Maybe, try taking it off, truing it up and refitting it? It may look OK then.
    The left one was the one I damaged and had to replace, so I have only the dented one spare.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Dave Rogers's Avatar
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    I see that I said that I would report back on my progress. Well the job has been done successfully. I started with the side rails, then the two front/corner pieces, then the trumpets. I bought some double sided tape from Officeworks, just regular narrow paper to paper type tape with no sponge filling, applied that right around the roof in a continuos strip then used then used it to hold the new rubber in place. I then held the corner pieces in place and the trumpets to mark where the overlap to the side rails would be. I put a small texta dot on the upper part of the rubber (so as the side rail was applied the mark wouldn't be covered ). Then with three people standing side by side and with six hands supporting the full length of the side rail we rolled the side rail into place. We started at the rear and firstly clipped the underside in place and rolled it up towards the roof, ensuring the the small lip in the rubber moulding was trapped under the curvature of the leading edge of the stainless strip. Because of the compound curves in the stainless strip, you need to start attaching the rear first and when the first 6-8 inches are in place the front of the trim is sticking out from the car body quite a few inches but as each other pair of hands does their rolling movement (ensuring the the underside of the stainless strip is in place before the upward rolling movement) the whole length just snaps into place. Then attach the two front corner pieces, cut off the excess rubber at the trumpets and attach those. Job done!
    74/75 DS23 Pallas 5 Speed Carby

    83 2CV Charleston

    79 GSA
    03 Peugeot 406 Hdi
    01 Renault Scenic

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! deesse's Avatar
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    well done Dave, you must be pleased. I look forward to seeing it transformed.

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