Hoogy's DS23
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Thread: Hoogy's DS23

  1. #1
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    Default Hoogy's DS23

    Hi all,
    After a long hiatus I'm back working on the car. Really pleased with the admittedly slow progress. The interior has new upholstery. The engine is running ok but battery is not charging. Maybe I need a new alternator. First question of the day concerns the coil, when I jump start the car it will run well but after I remove the leads from the battery eventually the terminal on top of the coil and closest to the firewall will start to glow orange. Any ideas what can cause the terminal to get this hot?
    Cheers and nice to be back.

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  2. #2
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Hi Hoogy-

    Concerning your question, what do you mean if you remove the battery leads, the wire ends begin to glow? Once the battery is disconnected, all electrical activity stops unless you are running off of the alternator (which I do not recommend). You see, the battery isn't just a storage device, it's also a filter and a buffer. My suggestion would be to double check your work on the ignition system first. If you have an external resistor pack (some Ds do, some don't), make sure that is hooked up in line between the ignition 12v source and the positive terminal on the coil. Make sure the negative terminal on the coil is going to the distributor. Make sure your points and condenser are assembled correctly, with all the spacers and insulators in place.

    Concerning your alternator- do you know for a fact it is failing? Is it a newer alt, or is it the factory one? The fastest way to test is fully charge your battery. Test it to get a baseline reading by placing a voltmeter/multimeter. Start the engine, and then once again voltmeter/multimeter on the battery. You should see about 12.3 or so at rest, and at least 13.6-7 at run. A not unusual problem with the original regulators is the internal relay which controls the light- and nothing else- will stick in the on position. This trips on the charge lamp, leading to a false diagnosis of a bad alt.

    If you do decide to replace the alternator- brushes and bearings wear and diodes fail- You have several useful options from repair of the original to many different ways to install a modern internal reg alternator. I have my favorites, but you aren't limited to that.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  3. #3
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    No, what I meant to say was " when I remove the jumper leads from the battery."
    I'm not sure if the alternator is failing but I've had the car running for extended periods and the battery is still dead at the end.

  4. #4
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoogy View Post
    No, what I meant to say was " when I remove the jumper leads from the battery."
    I'm not sure if the alternator is failing but I've had the car running for extended periods and the battery is still dead at the end.
    OK, now I have a little something to work with. It sounds like there is quite a lot of resistance in your ignition circuit There is also the possibility that the system is staying on, regardless of key position. A 23, so we are talking post-'71, correct? 3-dial dash? Pull your instrument cluster, then disconnect the ignition switch- it will be either a round, black 6-pin connector directly on the back of your switch, or a white, 6-pin rectangular connector on leads just past the switch. Pull that connector, see if the glowing stops. Check all your other connections. Something is either a) shorting to ground through your ignition circuit, b) hooked up incorrectly or c) experiencing some rather high load of resistance/corrosion. My money is on B causing A. I'm still a little befuddled that you get this after you disconnect your jumper leads. Possibly the low voltage plus the resistance= the system is sucking all it can from the battery.

    To get down to your root problem, I need some answers:
    How old is the battery? Has it been load tested recently?
    Are you still using the factory coil and resistor pack?
    Have you done anything to the ignition system besides routine cleanup and maintenance? I know you've been away from the car for awhile.
    I'm assuming you have a simple multimeter and test light? You don't need a Fluke 75 or a LoadPro. 50.00 or less should cover both, and they will be well worth having in your tool kit.
    Are the battery cables in good condition? A cable which is either too small or with several broken strands at either end will cause a multitude of problems. A cracked battery post end doesn't do you much good either.

    Also- what alternator are you running? The factory Paris-Rhone/Ducellier with the factory external regulator, or something else?

    Very important- have you tried to work on the dash wiring? As messy as a D can be, it doesn't take much to lose your place quickly.
    Trading Estate and sparkey like this.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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