DS Indicators
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Thread: DS Indicators

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default DS Indicators

    Hi All,
    For the first time in 4 years I'm living in the the same house that my DS lives in!! I'm coming towards the end of a full rebuild. At the moment I'm sorting out the electrics, my problem is the indicators, when turned in they click audibly at the dashboard and both green arrows flash on and off on the dash(it's a DS23), but the indicators themselves don't flash, if I remove any of the bulbs the clicking and dash flashing stops. Any ideas what the issue might be?

    cheers,
    Ed

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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet View Post
    Hi All,
    For the first time in 4 years I'm living in the the same house that my DS lives in!! I'm coming towards the end of a full rebuild. At the moment I'm sorting out the electrics, my problem is the indicators, when turned in they click audibly at the dashboard and both green arrows flash on and off on the dash(it's a DS23), but the indicators themselves don't flash, if I remove any of the bulbs the clicking and dash flashing stops. Any ideas what the issue might be?

    cheers,
    Ed
    Sounds like an earthing problem, both guards have an earth connection to the the body - any other strange symptoms?

    Cheers
    Chris
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    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    check the voltage at indicator end? voltmeter, earths like Chris says! Fuses? Bulbs ok? you might need to see if they're actually hitting some metal, nice bus btw! Top of the morning to ya!
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 1st February 2015 at 01:04 PM.

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    There was someone else on here with the exact same problem. I forget who, it's been a little while now. I got to thinking about it, and i now believe that's an ADR thing for you guys from when the car was new. Wonderfully simple to change out to L/R indicators. Let me know if you would like to do that or retain the original indicator.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet View Post
    Hi All,
    For the first time in 4 years I'm living in the the same house that my DS lives in!! I'm coming towards the end of a full rebuild. At the moment I'm sorting out the electrics, my problem is the indicators, when turned in they click audibly at the dashboard and both green arrows flash on and off on the dash(it's a DS23), but the indicators themselves don't flash, if I remove any of the bulbs the clicking and dash flashing stops. Any ideas what the issue might be?

    cheers,
    Ed
    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    There was someone else on here with the exact same problem. I forget who, it's been a little while now. I got to thinking about it, and i now believe that's an ADR thing for you guys from when the car was new. Wonderfully simple to change out to L/R indicators. Let me know if you would like to do that or retain the original indicator.
    Bill,
    I think Silverbullet is saying the actual indicators are not flashing (not that he is concerned that both dash lights flash).

    As long as all the wing connections are correct (and we all know that with the faded colour connectors that can be troublesome) I suggested he may have a earthing problem - what say you

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    *AHEM* After a swift boot in the bum by Chris, my reading skills have returned.

    Wot every one else has aid- check your grounds. I'll also say check your sockets and the continuity of the bulbs. The reason the flasher can stops clicking is it's seeking load-to-ground, and removing a bulb breaks that path. Of particular interest would be the front fender grounds- those are almost always missed on reassembly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    *AHEM* After a swift boot in the bum by Chris, my reading skills have returned.

    Wot every one else has aid- check your grounds. I'll also say check your sockets and the continuity of the bulbs. The reason the flasher can stops clicking is it's seeking load-to-ground, and removing a bulb breaks that path. Of particular interest would be the front fender grounds- those are almost always missed on reassembly.
    So good you are back HRE!!!

    My experience suggests earths too. Wouldn't the flasher give a light noise and fast flashing too? They behave quite differently when one bulb fails, a bit like an earth fault really. The original French flashers were quite slow.
    JohnW

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    So good you are back HRE!!!

    My experience suggests earths too. Wouldn't the flasher give a light noise and fast flashing too? They behave quite differently when one bulb fails, a bit like an earth fault really. The original French flashers were quite slow.
    Thanks, John.

    Typically, yes. That would be usual on a an otherwise functioning system. Now what could be is as Chris also suggests, and that the wiring is crossed at the front. That check needs to start from the main-to-fender connections at the firewall,

    To refresh:
    Yellow is main high beam
    Mauve is auxiliary high beam
    Green is dip beam
    Violet is turn signal
    Red is parking lamp
    White is country horn (passenger side only)
    Blue is town horn (passenger side only)
    Gray is brake pad wear (passenger side only0

    This can all be checked with a multimeter, a test lamp, and a little patience. Start at the firewall, and work downstream.

    I'm assuming that Silver Bullet didn't pull the dash wiring from the car.
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    At the rear, remember the light housings earth through the bolts holding them to the mounting and the mounting to the boot. The lights don't have a common earth, which you;d see if you look at the construction. If you have problems, perhaps run a separate earth lead to the body from the light housings. Bad earths thre give some very odd behaviour.

    If you have the original flasher unit, you can open it up and carefully clean the contacts. They tend to accumulate carbon and all of the contacts need to be good for the system to work. Dull repeater lights can be explained by a bad contact inside the flasher can.

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    Thanks for all the info. I'll check the earths in the front and rear. A bit of history: the car was completely and I mean completely dismantled when I got it, the rear loom is brand new, and the front is a very good second hand one that is very original and has not been butchered.
    I have the main headlights working except the swivelling ones which don't light up. Rear lights and brake lights all work.
    I'll clean and double check and report back.

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    Hi Ed, many older cars had the light on the dash merely as an indicator that the flashers were operating, rather than showing which side was working. My first car was like that and one of my friends thought there must be something wrong. There wasn't, it was just a cheap design.
    My 1979 CX had the same set up, but I rewired the instrument panel so that the lights actually showed which side were operating. I guess it's optional.
    I'm sure if you take the advice in the previous posts and work through, starting with checking all earth connections to each light , you will get it all operating.

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    Was your car strapped down over the rear of the fibreglass roof?

    Good luck!
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

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    Hi All,
    a quick update, I've cleaned/sanded all the connections, all earths, all fuses and holders, all male and female connections and still no indicators.... I'm still getting the clicking in and off in the car at normal speed and indicator lights on dash are working.
    Next step is get a voltmeter and see if we're getting power to the bulbs in the wings...

    It's an aluminium roof and was only lightly strapped to stop it blowing off!

    Ed

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    Update of the update; changed the new flasher unit in the dash for an old one and hey presto, they work!!

    Ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    There was someone else on here with the exact same problem. I forget who, it's been a little while now. I got to thinking about it, and i now believe that's an ADR thing for you guys from when the car was new. Wonderfully simple to change out to L/R indicators. Let me know if you would like to do that or retain the original indicator.
    Hello, please remind me how to do this modification. Mine is a 1974 DSuper5.

    Thanks in advance, good to have you back

    Peter

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badabec View Post
    Hello, please remind me how to do this modification. Mine is a 1974 DSuper5.

    Thanks in advance, good to have you back

    Peter
    Hi Pete- thanks for that.

    Simple mod, can be done across the board on any D with your style of indicators.

    You'll pull the instrument cluster (remember the old saw about how fragile the corners are!) and the steering pod top. You're looking for IIRC the white connector on the cluster. There, you'll see a double brown wire , which jumps to a single brown wire on another port on that connector.

    The longer of the double lead goes to the flasher can- disconnect this, and insulate the end on the can. An old line seal, piece of vacuum hose, or even just some electrical tape will do.

    Now comes the intensely tricky part. Seek out the wiring for your turn signal switch. There should be a black, blue and white (all three of these are related to the horns), a red, green and yellow (these three are your turn signals) and I think a brown, which should be your high beam flash. Your focus is on the green and the yellow. With careful use of a knife or a razor blade, strip back a small section on each switch wire (on the harness if possible, not the switch itself). On this newly exposed wire, you'll twist then solder a piece of wire long enough (400mm?) to reach the instrument cluster connector. Remember to insulate your newly formed taps with some electrical tape.

    With your new wires up to the cluster, you'll need a couple each of male and female 6.3mm spade terminals. Attach both females to the wires you just ran. At the cluster connector, where the double is run in, clip the jumper away. This will form one of your connections. Leaving as much lead as possible, now clip the remaining wire from the harness. You should now have two brown wires leading from the connector. Attach the two male ends to these wires.

    Test which wire is which. To do this, reconnect the three connectors to the cluster. The speedo does not need to be reconnected yet. Flip on your ignition, and pick a direction with the turn switch. Just touch the male and female terminals together. You'll get either a right indicate or a left indicate. If it's correct for the direction your switch is in, fully connect that wire together. If not, merely try the other.

    Reassemble your dash. You now have operating left/right indicators, and probably in less time than it took me to type this out!
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    Marvellous, thanks.

    Peter

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