Citroen Xantia LHM leak
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002

    Default Citroen Xantia LHM leak

    I picked up the Xantia this morning and dropped it off at work where we have a small work area (installation bays)...
    Its a 1997 model with 210K on the clock... its an auto with the (I believe) al4 box... she drove fine and shifted without any problems... engine sounds sweet and ride is good.
    But after I parked it I noticed an lhm leak on the ground near the rear left wheel (inner side and just in front)...
    I was busy all day and dint have much time to look at it... But i m going to be there at 7 am (a few hours before work so I can sort a few things out and have a look at the leak...)
    Any ideas what the problem component/connector could be...Just need some guidance at what I ll be looking for... (beside tracing the leak but capillary flow might lead me astray)
    Hydraulic cits arent my forte...
    I ll post some pics tomorrow of all problem areas and look forwards to your advice and opinions...


    Ps. After i parked it inside today the guys at work were freaking out at what the xantia can do with its ride height. I dropped it to its lowest setting and left it like that. What is the correct setting when car is not being used ie.parked... didnt come with a manual so this all new to me...


  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Don't remind me!


    There are two "Y" shaped connectors for the hydraulic return lines. They are made of something that resembles cold cast polyurethane and are subtly different to each other. One is blue, the other orange-red. They die of old age. Access is easiest with the subframe fully released on the passenger side and hanging by the rear bolt on the driver's side.

    You will need to partially unclip the hydraulic feed and return lines just forward of the subframe to avoid any kinking. Also drop the rear muffler. Replace both Y-pieces at the same time; once you've hosed it with brake cleaner it's fairly easy to grip the nylon lines and unplug/re-plug.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004


    1997 pre-facelift should be the ZF gearbox, not AL4. Use Dexron II. Look up the discussions about the rubber front strut tops as you should check their condition.

    (Edit: addo got in first and is correct!) Rear corner leaks are usually perished three way joiners on top of the rear beam. There's a thread on it somewhere and they are for the low pressure return, so you could even bodge your way out of the problem using a T and some rubber tubing. The correct parts are still available and you should replace both the blue and orange joiners at once. A hoist would help and will save you dropping the beam, but you will still want to drop the muffler box for access. Also consider the green 3-way joiner under the front passenger floor. These joiners crumble as they age.

    There are 4 height positions. The second one from the back is for normal driving, the next one up is for passing over bumps etc. The minimum (rearmost) and maximum (forward) are for service/access. The car may be a non-sinking variety, but the earlier examples all settle after a couple of hours and you have to wait for them to rise before driving off.

    French Connection should have a handbook, maybe from Pottsy's Zaphod.
    Last edited by David S; 30th December 2014 at 09:50 PM.

  4. #4
    Member Houtan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Tehran, Iran


    You don`t need to set the car in lower position in times that you don`t want to use it or want to park it for long time, when you park the car anti sink valves will closed automatic and car will stay on normal position (maybe 1 or 2 centimeter lower than normal position), the lowest position is only for servicing the car, changing LHM etc...

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