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Thread: Xantia Mystery.

  1. #1
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    Default Xantia Mystery.

    About 4 months ago my ct. turbo flashed a light on occasionally whilst driving. Turned out to be the injection light. Lexia informed me that it was "intermittent +ve" Advice was to clean connections in harness,made no difference. Two weeks ago the light stayed on whenever the car was driven;no difference to performance and some bright spark suggested I remove the bulb however this would have involved removing the dash. Last week after a local shopping trip,when I turned on the ignition the only lights on were the alternator warning light and the security light on keypad which both went out on starting however the warning alarm now sounds constantly whilst driving,still no effect on performance. My only option now is to turn off my hearing aid if I want to drive the car unless someone has a better suggestion. HELP PLEASE.

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I'm 900km away so not much practical help, suggest trying a different underbonnet fuse panel. Think they are common to many vehicles.

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    Or even clean all the fuse ends and contacts....
    JohnW

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    Low coolant level brings the light on too

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    JBN
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    When all else fails....speak to Jason.

    John
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    When all else fails....speak to Jason.

    John
    Haha John,he's too busy with you lot,lol,Andy.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    When all else fails....speak to Jason.

    John
    Andy, I thought you travelled with Jason somewhere in the convoy. Or was that just Griffith?
    Craig K
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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    You may think that this is a little far fetched but here goes!
    It is a computer controlled function. Right? Just like everything else on these Post XM era cars! I guess you could always try disconnecting the -ve battery lead to power off the Comms module. Then reconnect it after a minute or so to see if a systems reboot will fix it!
    My VT Calais refused to operate the automatic headlight system properly with the battery in it being prone to going flat very easily. A change to a new battery resulted in everything working normally again. Obviously the Computer rebooted and a healthy battery was all that was needed to restore the system!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    The fuse panel has "leaves" of pressed and spotwelded brass inside. They can fatigue and fail.

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    Craig,only joking,Andy.

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    Could be the fuse box under the drivers side dashboard also. It is approaching the time that we all need to get a spare Xantia to rob spare parts from.

    Cheers and best wishes for the New Year to all,

    Ken W

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post
    Could be the fuse box under the drivers side dashboard also. It is approaching the time that we all need to get a spare Xantia to rob spare parts from.

    Cheers and best wishes for the New Year to all,

    Ken W
    Same old story isn't it? Just when yours gets to the point where you need a spare car, they've disappeared or worn out.
    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    The fuse panel has "leaves" of pressed and spotwelded brass inside. They can fatigue and fail.
    Why would they fatigue? Are they flexed in any way by either mechanical force or by heating and cooling expansion and contraction. If excess heat is the culprit then there must be resistance where the fuses plug in to the circuit board. That would indicate very poor design!
    Perhaps all owners should periodically remove and clean the contacts on the fuse and the circuit and then spray with a moisture excluding product!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Why would they fatigue? Are they flexed in any way by either mechanical force or by heating and cooling expansion and contraction. If excess heat is the culprit then there must be resistance where the fuses plug in to the circuit board. That would indicate very poor design!
    Perhaps all owners should periodically remove and clean the contacts on the fuse and the circuit and then spray with a moisture excluding product!
    Indeed. See #3 above too!
    JohnW

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    ....spray with a moisture excluding product!
    Most of the moisture displacers are non volatile oil based chemical.

    The greasy residue attracts dust and crud like nothing else. Strictly not recommended.

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol or thinners or prepsol is pretty good (watch the plastic).

    I've found the "technicians friend" or soft pencil eraser the very best for cleaning any kind of contact. From pcb edge connector to fuse contacts. Completely safe and it's almost impossible to remove any surface plating.

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Rob, I did not say 'displacer' I said 'excluding'. Fish oil spray excludes moisture and does not interfere with the electrical connection if the connection is solid in the first place. It merely forms a sealing barrier around the connection!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Update;now have only lights,blinkers,horn,wipers and alarm constantly. No gauges,aircon or warning lights. Car goes like a rocket so I have the essentials. Will have to dig out the old radar detector.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Rob, I did not say 'displacer' I said 'excluding'. Fish oil spray excludes moisture and does not interfere with the electrical connection if the connection is solid in the first place. It merely forms a sealing barrier around the connection!
    There is a subtle difference in words.

    Any oil , especially fish oil will end up soaked into the connection. That's what fish oil does- penetrates. Fish oil certainly won't stay on the outside of connection, just as it won't stay on top of two steel panels - it wicks in between the joint.

    So the outcome of water diplacer or fish oil will the same. The connection soaked in an oil. Fish oil being 100% organic, spray cleaner being a petrochemical. So all and crap is attracted to the connector. With oil inside the crimp.

    I should point out I'm not being deliberately argumentative. I'm simply trying to pass on some practical experience discovered (the hard way) on connections on high current (60v/ 150 amp) projection light sources which operated in very dusty and hot aggressive environments.

    Your theory about excluding moisture is very sound but please use a lanolin spray or lanolin grease. This flows around the connection and forms a "skin" all the dust and crap sticks to outside but the lanolin remains intact and seals the inside of the connection.

    Last edited by robmac; 2nd January 2015 at 04:14 PM.
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    Yes Rob I see your reasoning and it holds true except for one factor. The spade connector will have solid metal to metal contact on order to conduct. The fish oil will not penetrate here if the connections are all made very tight. Just as it cannot penetrate the spot welds of two adjacent panels. The fish oil will only go in as far as the solid contact and not work its way in between the two contacting components.
    Corrosion between two contacts is an entirely different matter, It chemically penetrates between the contacting joint and causes an area of resistance that breaks the contact eventually when it becomes severe enough.
    I have sealed the contacts of the glass fuses ( all two of them) on my Light 15 and have never had any trouble. These normally have no cover and are exposed to the open air within the engine bay. A very unfriendly environment for an electrical connection!
    The only disadvantage occurs when the fuse requires replacement. It is then necessary to thoroughly clean the contact springs and reseal the replacement fuse. A cotton bud and some acetone are useful for this!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Yes Rob I see your reasoning and it holds true except for one factor. The spade connector will have solid metal to metal contact on order to conduct. The fish oil will not penetrate here if the connections are all made very tight. Just as it cannot penetrate the spot welds of two adjacent panels. The fish oil will only go in as far as the solid contact and not work its way in between the two contacting components.
    Corrosion between two contacts is an entirely different matter, It chemically penetrates between the contacting joint and causes an area of resistance that breaks the contact eventually when it becomes severe enough.
    I have sealed the contacts of the glass fuses ( all two of them) on my Light 15 and have never had any trouble. These normally have no cover and are exposed to the open air within the engine bay. A very unfriendly environment for an electrical connection!
    The only disadvantage occurs when the fuse requires replacement. It is then necessary to thoroughly clean the contact springs and reseal the replacement fuse. A cotton bud and some acetone are useful for this!
    Fair enough, your experience is quite different to mine. We had bad experiences on the old Ashcraft Super Cinex arc lamps. Nothing stopped the contact problems except electrical grease or lanolin.

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    I have no doubt that electrical grease and lanolin both work fine, Rob. I just used what I could easily obtain!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Quote Originally Posted by alhantos View Post
    Update;now have only lights,blinkers,horn,wipers and alarm constantly. No gauges,aircon or warning lights. Car goes like a rocket so I have the essentials. Will have to dig out the old radar detector.
    Hi Alhantos, I recognize your problem, I had nearly the same thing on my Xantia, and it was easily fixed. I ended up with no speedo but I still had Tacho, no direction indicators, no wipers, very weird stuff going on and not going on. I had a chat to Shane about it, and he is very logical. He put me in the right direction, EVERYTHING passes through the ignition switch. I kept the key part but changed the switch part , from the wreckers... it cost me about $20.00. Also, instead of just fitting the replacement, I dismantled and cleaned all the contacts first. If yours is like mine, it's a very complex little switch with small glass balls, copper contacts and little plate springs. If you take it apart little parts fall out and you have to figure out where they went and what they did. If you get a spare to swap over you can post me the switch and I'll service it for you. Happy to do it just if you cover the postage cost. cheers...

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    Quote Originally Posted by George 1/8th View Post
    Hi Alhantos, I recognize your problem, I had nearly the same thing on my Xantia, and it was easily fixed. I ended up with no speedo but I still had Tacho, no direction indicators, no wipers, very weird stuff going on and not going on. I had a chat to Shane about it, and he is very logical. He put me in the right direction, EVERYTHING passes through the ignition switch. I kept the key part but changed the switch part , from the wreckers... it cost me about $20.00. Also, instead of just fitting the replacement, I dismantled and cleaned all the contacts first. If yours is like mine, it's a very complex little switch with small glass balls, copper contacts and little plate springs. If you take it apart little parts fall out and you have to figure out where they went and what they did. If you get a spare to swap over you can post me the switch and I'll service it for you. Happy to do it just if you cover the postage cost. cheers...
    Good idea. A relay for the ventilator fan at the same time would be a good idea, if there isn't one there already.
    JohnW

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    Hi George,yesterday,after checking all the fuses without changing any(only using a test light and not removing any so rules out disturbing any dirt),voila,everything suddenly decided to work.The only thing that still remains a mystery is that the injection warning light which remains on whilst car running. Will look for a switch as you suggested and will take you up on your kind offer,Andy. Addit. I had lights,horn,blinkers,wipers but no instuments,no aircon. or fan and the B..... alarm sounding constantly.
    Last edited by alhantos; 4th January 2015 at 10:04 AM.

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    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    No worries Andy,
    I've only come across 2 different types of Xantia ignition switch, which I thought originally were series one and series 2 types. My car is series one. I grabbed a series 2 switch once to replace mine, in order to kind of update my car's switch type with the revised version, which is a total re-design, and found that I could only use it if I also changed the key/barrel part, which I didn't want to do. So I just serviced my original. Later on I found a series 2 car and bought it's switch, complete with the lock/barrel unit, so I could do a swap over, to the new type, but I wasn't sure the wiring would be compatible in the spade connectors. Surprisingly it turned out that the one I bought from a series 2 car had a series 1 unit in it.
    Anyway, I'm totally familiar with both types , and have dismantled and repaired both types several times. It seems that the "bureaux de bastarde" designed these switches so that they don't quite handle the current that has to pass through them. Most Xantias have therefore been modified so that the heavy current is passed through a heavy duty relay instead of the ignition switch , and this seems to be a cure.
    If you separate the electrical part of the ignition switch from the lock , and memorise how it all fitted together, ( take a few close up digital photos as a reminder) you could just post me the switch and wires. Alternatively just send the entire unit. Email me for details of where to send the unit. I'm in Victoria. my email is [email protected] Cheers...

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