AL4 Oil change question
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 10 of 10
Like Tree2Likes
  • 2 Post By jaahn

Thread: AL4 Oil change question

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    153

    Default AL4 Oil change question

    I saved the guide with pics on the oil change. But when I went under there, mine is slightly different. I couldn't undo both the drain and level plug, but only the smaller plug. It looked like (and felt like) the larger 27mm plug was spot welded. I undid the smaller plug and quite a bit came out, maybe 1 liter. Is this normal? Are there 2 different variations?

    Advertisement
    Last edited by garethb; 20th December 2014 at 05:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Got the guide from here Please re-post C5 AL4 transmission refilling guide

    Looking at the image of the drain plug, mine looks different, the washer is around the smaller plug, not the 27mm outer.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    153

    Default

    And just so I know I'm not being a numpty, to loosen, if facing the car from the front, should I be going left to right or right to left?

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,670

    Default

    Did you drain it cold after letting it sit for some time? If so, then oil will drain back into the case, which might increase the amount removed. Or it may simply have been a little too full. This is why you want to check the level running at 60C. The simplest way is to drive the car, get it hot, let it drain and cool over lunch, refill with 3.5lt of the 4 you would start with. Drive it around the block once, which should bring it to about 60C, remove the centre plug and add fluid until it just runs over the drain. If you have the Lexia/Diagbox unit then you can monitor the oil temperature and reset the oil wear counter. The latter is just an integer counter that runs to 32K as the oil wear in inferred based on how the car is used. Even if you change the oil, it may eventually reach the 32K limit and trigger a gearbox fault.

    The tube that is part of the drain plug is meant to act as a weir and the centre plug is it's drain. You have to undo the whole thing to drain the gearbox. Perhaps, there was soem variation in the head dimensions, but the function should be the same. It will not be a left hand thread, so turn in the same direction as the plug in the middle.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,304

    Default

    Yes you have to undo the big 27mm plug. It is not spot welded, just bloody tight. Luckily I have a six sided socket of the correct size even though putting the required torque on the nut is a bit difficult with a socket. For accurate filling the car must be level when draining, filling and testing the level.
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    153

    Default

    thanks david and greg. the guide said it's not on too tight so I didn't want to use too much force. Anyway, a new 27mm socket to my breaker bar and it came off eventually.

    David, I had it nice and hot and removed the center plug. Thats when the 1 liter came out. By the time I went to supercheap to get the 27mm socket and back again (on the push bike) it had obviously cooled by then when I finally removed the outer plug. Is there anything I should do different now that the main drain was done cool and not hot?

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,304

    Default

    Thats good it is off. Just clean up and put it all back in, then pour 4 litres oil back in the gearbox. Then run engine, run gearbox lever through all positions and buttons too. Either let car idle with it in gear for about 15 mins or take for a drive, then with the engine still running, but in Park, remove centre nut and catch any oil that runs out. When it starts to drip, refit the nut and you are done.
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    2,573

    Default

    Hi,
    It has been said but to make it really clear.
    The engine must be running to check the oil level. It should be previously warmed up and then remove the center plug with the engine still running.

    After refilling from a change of oil, do as the others have said, then check with the engine running.

    Sorry if this sounds like too much emphasis but some people seem to have trouble believing it and it is not easy to do correctly at home without some ramps jacks etc.
    Jaahn
    JohnW and shanadoo like this.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    brisbane Au
    Posts
    927

    Default

    The suspension up on high setting makes it easier. The engine must be running when checking box oil to ensure the clutch packs, the pump, the converter, and other stuff are full. That's why it will be overfull if you check the level when cold. cheers Tony.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Yeah, thanks for the warning, I did forget to keep the engine running when I checked the level last night. But did one more read of the guide before I went out today.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •