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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default XANTIA central locking.

    hi folks can anyone help with resetting central locking ;when I lock car with key
    it clicks three times but leaves one back door unlocked.The remote on key holder
    no longer works have changed battery but no good

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    JBN
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    Default Flick the Plip

    If you have no Plip, or it doesnít work or your door lock barrels are nearly worn out, you might like to consider this kit to change your central locking to being radio operated.
    Available from SuperCheap Auto for about $50 is the SCA Remote Central Locking kit, complete with two remotes.

    XANTIA central locking.-plip-5.jpg

    The existing Plip Controller is located in the headlining between the two sun visors.

    XANTIA central locking.-plip-4.jpg

    NB: Mark the 3 grey wires or at least the end one (pin 5) before cutting them from the Plip Controller, to make it easier to identify which is positive.


    The Plip Controller has five wires:

    • Pin 1 has a mushroom coloured wire (- Negative to earth)
    • Pin 2 has an orange wire (positive, only live on ignition) F30
    • Pin 3 has a grey wire Ė either lock or unlock
    • Pin 4 has a grey wire Ė either lock or unlock
    • Pin 5 has a grey wire (+ positive, always live) F25 fuse


    XANTIA central locking.-plip-1.jpg

    The SCA controller has 8 wires.

    XANTIA central locking.-plip-2.jpg


    Only the red, black, middle white and middle brown is required.
    The blue, green, outer white and outer brown is not required.


    The SCA red wire is connected to the Plip pin 5 grey wire.
    The SCA black wire is connected to the Plip mushroom wire.
    The SCA white wire is connected to one of the Plip grey wires,
    The SCA brown wire is connected to the other Plip grey wire.

    XANTIA central locking.-plip-3.jpg


    WARNING: The SCA wires are cloaked in a tough plastic. When stripping the ends prior to crimping on a bullet connector, it is possible for the strands of copper to pull free from the multi-plug, interrupting the electrical flow. If this happens, cut another length, strip and crimp a bullet connector, then strip the other end and solder it to the multi-plug clip.
    There may be some experimentation between the white and brown wires as to which is "lock" and which is "unlock" relative to the remote buttons.
    The new SCA controller is placed above the headlining.

    John

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    JBN
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KEVIE View Post
    hi folks can anyone help with resetting central locking ;when I lock car with key
    it clicks three times but leaves one back door unlocked.The remote on key holder
    no longer works have changed battery but no good
    I've often had trouble with the drivers side rear door. Generally it has come good after manually locking all doors from inside using the tabs (leave drivers window open) then unlocking using the key.

    Often if the boot has been manually locked/unlocked, the central locking goes haywire. I manually lock/unlock and slam the boot closed and that often fixes it.

    French cars and electronics go together like magicians and pigeons. I am unable to work out the process in either.

    Johnl

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Hi John, the later Xantia has an all-singing, all-dancing box branded "Texton" which controls the immobiliser, transmitter, locking. It very rarely fails, and cannot be simply swapped when it does.

    Were Kevie to test the locking of the car with the offending door's internal connection unplugged, it would reveal whether the fault lay in wiring or the lock. Ashburton is quite chilly, so it's well possible the UK type failure of cold, hard plastic insulation snapping (and then taking the wires with it) has struck the car down.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XANTIA central locking.-texton_box.jpg  

  5. #5
    JBN
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    OK. Sounds like they have a better pigeon and need different magic. However pigeon shit is pigeon shit, regardless of the breeding. Fortunately, of all cars that you can't lock, Citroen is still the safest. Its only the odd drunk on a Friday night that would even attempt to break in.

    John

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    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KEVIE View Post
    hi folks can anyone help with resetting central locking ;when I lock car with key
    it clicks three times but leaves one back door unlocked.The remote on key holder
    no longer works have changed battery but no good
    Might be something wrong with the back door which is not locking. I have replaced all my xantia locks one by one, all working great now. IF your plip has stopped working, and it has a new battery, try what I did, look at the printed circuit under magnification. Look for the solder joints that are faulty/dry/ and re-solder them. They are usually the ones directly related to the battery contacts. It should work again. I wouldn't go cutting any existing wires on my car.

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    hi again thanks for all your detailed answers ;will look at these fixes and let you all know how I get on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KEVIE View Post
    hi again thanks for all your detailed answers ;will look at these fixes and let you all know how I get on.
    My only experience with a recalcitrant rear door was a broken solenoid rod (our BX). I replaced the solenoid and all was well for another decade. It is still working with the new owner AFAIK.
    JohnW

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    Tadpole
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    hi folks have found broken switch on key remote only have one ;I see you can
    buy new remotes on e bay but these would need to be reset to suit car
    anyone know how this is done.

  10. #10
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    You can buy a new microswitch and solder it on - or send the remote off for repair.

    A second hand remote of the same type is easy to program to your car, you don't even need a diagnostic computer.

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    JBN
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    The reason I bought the SCA remote kit was that for $50, I received two new remotes.

    The car was bought without any remote, only using keys to lock the car. When the driver's barrel started to fail, I swapped it with the passenger's one, but wanted an alternative to a brick to enter the car should that also fail.

    John

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    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    The SCA kit is good value but make sure your actuators are good or it will be no value. I've fitted my own UHF GonzPlip to a Xantia with success.

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    Fellow Frogger!
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    I just fitted a radio version my 306. Wish I did it to my dear departed Xantia! I don't think the OP said what sort his was??? I found a really nice kit on eBay that looks OEM.
    06 Citroen C5 Estate 2.2 Hdi Auto
    95 Peugeot 306 S16
    95 Silver Xantia VSX - now deceased

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KEVIE View Post
    hi folks have found broken switch on key remote only have one ;I see you can
    buy new remotes on e bay but these would need to be reset to suit car
    anyone know how this is done.
    Hi Kevie, the original Xantia system operates via line of sight UV remote system similar to the ones you use with a television. What I like about this is the fact that your frequency cannot be scanned. Only you can open up your car. If your key's electronics just has a broken micro-switch that's a fairly easy repair if you have the skills and the right tools. Any electronics Tech should be able to do this for you. You might have to source a replacement micro switch from an old broken MP3 player or something like that.
    Good luck...

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    Fellow Frogger!
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    I forgot to mention I fixed my remote once giving it a good clean with isopropyl alcohol. Saved me replacing the switch.
    06 Citroen C5 Estate 2.2 Hdi Auto
    95 Peugeot 306 S16
    95 Silver Xantia VSX - now deceased

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    JBN
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    Damn. This post has become viral and the contagion has spread to MY Xantia! I washed it yesterday, a bloody stupid thing to do. Then I vacuumed the interiors, exacerbating the situation.

    This morning my wife informs me that the car wouldn't remotely unlock so she used the drivers door key. Fortunately its a Chitroen so it can be left parked in the street quite safely.

    I intend to enjoy Christmas. After Christmas, I will disconnect the fuel flap actuator. I really don't car if the car is lockable, but I sure care if I can't get petrol into it. With the price of petrol these days NO ONE is trying to steal it, not that they have ever done that to me anyhow.

    If I can be bothered, I can strip the car and check all connections and which actuator is causing grief. Maybe driving across a swollen creek with all the windows down may achieve the same outcome.

    The real problem for me is the passengers door lock doesn't work and the drivers door lock is shaky. The car is not worth the cost of a new set of barrels and the hassle of changing the ignition barrel.

    John

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    Damn. This post has become viral and the contagion has spread to MY Xantia! I washed it yesterday, a bloody stupid thing to do. Then I vacuumed the interiors, exacerbating the situation.

    This morning my wife informs me that the car wouldn't remotely unlock so she used the drivers door key. Fortunately its a Chitroen so it can be left parked in the street quite safely.

    I intend to enjoy Christmas. After Christmas, I will disconnect the fuel flap actuator. I really don't car if the car is lockable, but I sure care if I can't get petrol into it. With the price of petrol these days NO ONE is trying to steal it, not that they have ever done that to me anyhow.

    If I can be bothered, I can strip the car and check all connections and which actuator is causing grief. Maybe driving across a swollen creek with all the windows down may achieve the same outcome.

    The real problem for me is the passengers door lock doesn't work and the drivers door lock is shaky. The car is not worth the cost of a new set of barrels and the hassle of changing the ignition barrel.

    John
    That is a real worry, as I was about to give MY Xantia it's annual wash. Even I'm getting embarrassed by the grot on it.

    Would replacing the Xantia cost more than a set of barrels though?
    JohnW

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  18. #18
    JBN
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    The current status is:
    1. Remote elicits a "click" from the controller in the roof
    2. The driver's door locks/unlocks using the key but the central locking is not actioned
    3. The passenger front door can be locked/unlocked manually from inside
    4. The passenger rear door can also be locked/unlocked manually from inside
    5. The drivers rear door is locked and cannot be unlocked manually from inside the car (tab won't budge)
    6. The boot can be locked/unlocked using the key.

    Fortunately, all the rubbish is still in the bag of the vacuum cleaner, so tomorrow I will empty it all back into the car, hoping it will re-balance the karma.

    John
    JohnW likes this.

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts The Gonz's Avatar
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    Sounds very much like age has got the better of most of your actuators.

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    In Australia I guess Citroen dealers don`t servicing Xantias anymore but in our country I had same problems as JBN and I going to Citroen dealers and they reset whole Central Locking system and all problems gone.

    however if any door locks showing problems on Xantia phase II (1998-2002) you must change the lock with a new one because the are not repairable.

    Also I think Lexia 3 program can help for finding some problems on central locking system but I haven`t use it yet.

  21. #21
    JBN
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    Unfortunately, my 1995 Xantia (probably built in 1994) doesn't speak to the Lexia. I have tried on a few occasions, both using the VIN and also drilling down through model/engine/VSX etc.

    John

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    JBN
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    Default Curcumcision

    With half a tank of fuel remaining and the central locking chastity belt refusing to unlock, I bit the bullet.

    Firstly I pulled off the front door card, but could make no sense of the wires. The key won't lock or unlock the car. I couldn't get any reading of power when I operated the remote, which "clicked" audibly but impotently in the roof lining.

    I unlocked the drivers rear door by pulling out the plastic lock tab and yanking the rod with pliers.

    I half removed the central console but just looked at the central locking, not knowing what for or what to do.

    I removed the battery earth lead and the central locking fuse (F21) but nothing magical happened.

    Finally, I stripped the boot to get to the wires leading to the fuel flap.

    These were cut and stripped on the fuel flap side. Then, getting my portable jump starter, I connected the bared wires to the jump start leads. I can't remember if my first guess (brown to positive, green to negative) was correct or the opposite. Bingo, heard the click as the deadlock retreated and walked around to find the fuel flap unlocked.

    XANTIA central locking.-fuel-flap-01.jpgXANTIA central locking.-fuel-flap-02.jpgXANTIA central locking.-fuel-flap-03.jpgXANTIA central locking.-fuel-flap-04.jpg

    So, the car can now be fueled. I don't really car about leaving it unlocked even though it is parked on the street. If I ever do get worried, I'll type up a note

    FREE CAR
    These are the known problems

    Central locking doesn't work
    Airconditioning doesn't work
    Demister doesn't work
    The HP pump is leaking again
    and I am on alternator # 3

    John
    Last edited by JBN; 27th December 2014 at 09:22 PM.

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    With half a tank of fuel remaining and the central locking chastity belt refusing to unlock, I bit the bullet.

    Firstly I pulled off the front door card, but could make no sense of the wires. The key won't lock or unlock the car. I couldn't get any reading of power when I operated the remote, which "clicked" audibly but impotently in the roof lining.

    I unlocked the drivers rear door by pulling out the plastic lock tab and yanking the rod with pliers.

    I half removed the central console but just looked at the central locking, not knowing what for or what to do.

    I removed the battery earth lead and the central locking fuse (F21) but nothing magical happened.

    Finally, I stripped the boot to get to the wires leading to the fuel flap.

    These were cut and stripped on the fuel flap side. Then, getting my portable jump starter, I connected the bared wires to the jump start leads. I can't remember if my first guess (brown to positive, green to negative) was correct or the opposite. Bingo, heard the click as the deadlock retreated and walked around to find the fuel flap unlocked.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So, the car can now be fueled. I don't really car about leaving it unlocked even though it is parked on the street. If I ever do get worried, I'll type up a note

    FREE CAR
    These are the known problems

    Central locking doesn't work
    Airconditioning doesn't work
    Demister doesn't work
    The HP pump is leaking again
    and I am on alternator # 3

    John
    Wow John, it sounds like you are pretty pissed off with this car. Look at the bright side, there are plenty of really cheap parts at the wreckers. I replaced nearly every door lock in the Xantia, and had no further problems.
    Firstly, when I got the car , the locks ( the key barrels) were so worn out that the keys didn't work properly. These are really easy to remove from the door, without taking anything off the door. There is a small rubber plug you remove, then push in a screwdriver to hold the clip in, and pull the barrel out. Easy.
    What I did then was I dismantled the entire lock mechanism and worked out what it was supposed to do, and how it was supposed to work. I found that wear on the keys themselves and the tumblers, mainly the smaller ones, had come to the point that the key was no longer unlocking the lock. So, I deleted the smaller worn tumblers. Now the locks worked like new. I re-fitted them.
    Then, the electronics had stopped working. I dismantled the key plip, took out the small circuit, inspected it under magnification. I found 2 dry joints, so resoldered these. All working again.
    Then, one door wasn't unlocking. Replaced entire door lock with one from the wrecker. About $20.00. Fixed.
    Then the petrol lock once stopped unlocking, so I removed it and cleaned it out, and lubricated the moving pin. That took all of 5 minutes.
    All fixed. I love the car, I love the ride quality, the reliability. I have replaced the alternator once. The car has done over 240,000 ks, and still running sweet. The transmission is fantastic. The cental locking is all good. The brakes are great.
    The car only cost me $5,000 on the road with all new brakes 6 years ago. It's taken me safely over 60.000 ks in that time.
    I have no complaints. It was about 12 yrs old when I bought it. I have replaced spheres, I had to remove the speedo and re-solder that so it would work properly. The ignition switch needed removing and servicing, and I had to replace the blower fan, and fit a better earth wire for it. It also needed a relay in the fan circuit to reduce the load on the ignition switch. I stopped my HP pump from leaking out where the pipes join by using some teflon tape. Had to do the same on the dipstick tube base behind the starter motor. I had to change the rocker cover too. All very cheap at the wreckers, and the car is good. I've just replaced the rubbers on the power steering, fun job that one.
    Good luck with fixing all those problems... It's worth it.
    Last edited by George 1/8th; 28th December 2014 at 11:21 AM.

  24. #24
    JBN
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    Today, being another day, I unlocked the car with the remote. The weather is cloudy, inside temperature 27 degrees. I must start keeping a log to see what influence, weather, position of sun or phase of the moon have. I am just happy I can put fuel in to it and all the doors/boot are unlocked. Actually it was only the boot that was locked via the central locking yesterday, so it is probably the actuator that is dodgy. The drivers rear door had a new actuator some years ago, but I think the plastic manual lock/unlock might have jammed (another triumph of ingenuity and aesthetics over functionality and simplicity).

    I will investigate the exact cause of the LHM leaks from the HP pump. The seals were replaced a year ago, as was the alternator. Either way, I may make a "roof" for it with a Modess or two stuck on top, both to mop up the LHM and to indicate that it is leaking. Another brilliant bit of Citroen design, reminiscent of the water pump on a CX being situated over the alternator. When will the French discover gravity? I think the Bureau de Bastarde do this on purpose so that not only do you have the leaking component to replace, but as a reward for not realising you have a maintenance issue, they destroy another component to remind you to change your ways.

    I do like the car. I just don't like bad design. Never had a problem with the BX HP pump leaking as the alternator was above it. The BX didn't have central locking, but the manual "stalks" to lock/unlock the car were fool proof and made it easier to remove door cards. Since the Xantia only cost $2000 plus $1000 to replace all the 8 spheres (VSX) plus rear arm bearings, I am not complaining.

    I have opened the fuel flap 3 times today even though I haven't visited the petrol station. I am just so happy that the potential disaster waiting to happen won't. Speaking to the locksmith that lives at my townhouse complex today, he mentioned various disaster stories relating to cars and locks.

    John

  25. #25
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Are you sure you are speaking kindly TO the car? Ours knows she is loved and we've never had one of those problems.

    Our BX had central locking.

    I presume you've just left the fuel flap unlocked? Seems sensible enough to me.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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