C4 won't start after disconnecting battery.
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Thread: C4 won't start after disconnecting battery.

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default C4 won't start after disconnecting battery.

    I have a 2006 VTR C4 that has always had a bit of a personality when it comes to its electronics. The most recent of which occurred yesterday when the climate control fans decided to stop working. I thought I'd rule out a blown fuse first and checked the air-con related fuses both under the bonnet and under the dash; both of which were fine.

    It was suggested to me to disconnect the battery for a period of time to "reset" the various computers state, so I did. However, upon reconnecting the battery, the car now won't start. The fuel pump audibly primes when turning the key to "on", but the engine doesn't turn over or make any suggestion of doing anything when turning the key "start". The charge on the battery seems fine (though I'm yet to test it with a volt meter) and the interior lights don't dim when attempting to turn over the engine. I cleaned up the terminals on the battery with no change.

    I thought disconnecting the battery may have done something to mess with the immobiliser, but following the instructions (holding the lock button on the fob for over 5 seconds while switched to the "on" position in the ignition) to re-program the fob made no difference.

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    I'd really appreciate any suggestions as to what else I could try before getting it towed away for diagnosis.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I only have c5 experience but found i had to close all the doors and the bonnet lock the car ,then re open with key or fob ,before i could re start it ,it probably thinks your trying to steel it unless it knows you have a key to unlock it ,it also appeared to have to have the bonnet closed ,could have a switch on it somewhere i dont know pugs

  3. #3
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    Here's the manual. The wait when disconnecting is important.
    C4 won't start after disconnecting battery.-c4battery.jpg

  4. #4
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    This is a pretty major non-start. Have you checked the yellow fuse under the bonnet, it controls the starter?

    Does the car have any aftermarket gear like a subwoofer amp, added to it?

  5. #5
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    No aftermarket equipment whatsoever and the starter fuse looks fine. I've tried various pauses and incantations including starting after one, two and ten minutes of disconnecting the battery. I've also tried something suggested elsewhere about waiting for few minutes after disconnection then turning on the headlamps through the window without opening the door, then after a further delay try turning over ... no luck. :shrug:

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    OK, check the ECU case for DC voltage to ground.

    Also check your maxi fuses.

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    Where is the ECU located (I tried searching for some images without success)? And are there any precautions I need to take when checking the maxi fuses?

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    The ECU is, from memory, near the battery and left headlight. With the maxi fuses, it might be best to disconnect the negative terminal from your battery first. At this point, don't fuss over the shutdown procedure, just whip it off. Is it a 1.6 16V petrol engine?

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    It's the 2.0L petrol 5 door (EW10A I believe).

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I don't have the correct diagrams for this car, unfortunately. I'm presuming the underbonnet fuse panel has three large multipin plugs with the "up and over" locking arms on each - not the side-pull red lock tabs. It's a full CAN-CAN system and the starter won't crank without accepting dialogue from the COMM unit and BSI. There's no "hard" wired link between the keyswitch and starter solenoid.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    I had to rescue a C5 that would not start. The dealer said go and disconnect the battery and wait 20mins. Then reconnect and wait 5 mins, or twice as long as the slowest windows box you have used boots up. Started first turn.
    Mine

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    I'm presuming the underbonnet fuse panel has three large multipin plugs with the "up and over" locking arms on each - not the side-pull red lock tabs.
    Yup. All the maxi fuses look fine and I can't find my voltmeter to check the ECU case.

    The dealer said go and disconnect the battery and wait 20mins. Then reconnect and wait 5 mins, or twice as long as the slowest windows box you have used boots up.
    I've tried this without success too.

    I think it's time I bite the bullet and get it to a mechanic. Can anyone possibly recommend one in Sydney that would be suited for repairing faults like this? Bonus points if they are a mobile mechanic.

  13. #13
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    I know that Colliers at Granville have fixed this problem in the past, I think you should use one of the non-dealers with full diagnostics.

  14. #14
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    If the car has had ongoing issues, then the age and state of the battery are the first things to check as recent cars are not tolerant of even a slightly weak battery. Tried the second key? If it's not the starter fuse (F9 or F12? - should be 25A, not 20A) or anything else obvious, then it's quite possibly some fault in the engine slave / fuse box unit. They are not VIN-coded, so you could just swap one of the same type from a crashed car or even borrow one from a donor to test it. Colliers would be OK, as should Jason Hantos in the North, Denton Christie at Penrith and Continental Cars in what is almost the middle these days.

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    Further thought. Look at the coolant temperature sensor at the gearbox end of the head. Pull the plug off and see if it's leaking coolant into the engine harness. If so, look elsewhere for evidence of coolant reaching connected components, including the engine slave / fuse box. This can cause grief.
    shanadoo likes this.

  16. #16
    don
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    I have a VTR also and had the same problem. Strange electrical glitches and that came and went.
    Swapped out the under bonnet fuse box under extended warranty and all good. There is documented history of the problem David S just posted. try C4owners.org for more info
    Jinandfonic likes this.

  17. #17
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    A brief update for anyone who may be interested:

    I ended up getting the car over to Colliers to have a look and they managed to get it to start after eventually tracking down and replacing a faulty plug under the dash (I can only think I must have nudged a cable while looking at the fuses by the glove compartment, otherwise a freakish co-incidence with disconnecting the battery). The initial fault of air-con blower was tracked down to a faulty relay in the under-bonnet fusebox which apparently can't be replaced individually, so we had the whole fusebox replaced too (10 points to don).

    I also want to say thanks to everyone who offered to help. The community and general willingness to help on this forum is fantastic.

    Thanks!

  18. #18
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    And thanks to you for getting back to us with the fix.

    Glad your car is back on the road again.
    Regards,

    Simon

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