DS Pallas Upper Door Trim
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    Default DS Pallas Upper Door Trim

    DS Pallas Upper Door Trim-pic_0002.jpg

    Greetings

    Can someone tell me how to remove the upper trim? Looking underneath the chrome trim (in the door) I can see a number of self tappers protruding through the metal. Does the chrome strip slide off the self tapper heads, or do I force them off?

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    Regards
    Errol

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    From memory it slides sideways.

    John

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    Fellow Frogger! Dave Rogers's Avatar
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    There is a U shaped channel that the self-tapper screw through, the sides of the U are taller than the heads of the screws. The stainless trim strip then sits over the top of the U by a force fit. With a small flat-head screwdriver you can carefully prise off the stainless strip. I got all of mine off OK without damaging the trim strip, now that my doors are painted I'm just about to commence the tricky job of getting the trim strips firmly back in place without damaging them. Best of luck.
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  4. #4
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    the actual trim itself is glued on .... Don't remove it unless you need too!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    the actual trim itself is glued on .... Don't remove it unless you need too!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Not by my recollection. It is retained under the top stainless strip with screws and then is caught at the lower edge by the stainless cap rail for the main door trim. Once all the screws are removed the padded trim just lifts off. That does not mean that some one previously may have glued the trims that you have experience with in to place as a bit of overkill!
    Cheers Gerry

  6. #6
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Not by my recollection. It is retained under the top stainless strip with screws and then is caught at the lower edge by the stainless cap rail for the main door trim. Once all the screws are removed the padded trim just lifts off. That does not mean that some one previously may have glued the trims that you have experience with in to place as a bit of overkill!
    I'm pretty sure every door I've ever pulled apart has had the trim part glued ..... Your right though, it's likely someone has done this in the past!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Both the cars in Pallas guise that I have owned were very original. Not a trace of glue in this area.
    Cheers Gerry

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts michaelr's Avatar
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    There is a long detailed thread on this operation someplace on AF. Just a matter of finding it!

    Firstly, slow down and be careful. It is very easy to damage the stainless trim. Before starting the job try to get a little lubricating spray under the stainless.

    The stainless sits as a cap on the steel U shaped strip. One edge of the stainless hooks over a lip and the other edge clips down. This second edge can be very gently lifted and after it is fully disengaged the hooked side will be free. Buggered if I can recall which edge is which though

    Retaining screws are pozidrive, at least on later cars.
    Michael
    Member, Citroen Car Club NSW

    DS23 Pallas 5 sp. "Francoise" , BX19TRi Auto "Jacques Dutronc" , Teardrop Trailer "The Toad", BMW R65 "Rosamund"
    In the past: Renault 750, Dauphine, R4, R8, R10, Peugeot 504 Familiale, ID 19 (x2), Safari (x2)

  9. #9
    mnm
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    I've done my best but if this helps, here are some pics of an assembled trim piece. You can see the lip on the right side, the two pieces slot into each other. This is the side of the trim that sits inside the door frame. In the second pic you are looking at it from the other end, you can see here how the decorative trim clips over the edge ...this is the edge you need to lift carefully. It's a curved over curved affair... if that makes sense.




    Matthew

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    Thanks to all for the advice. I will take it slow as suggested, and look for the post as a backup. Strange how the small things are the most troublesome.

    I am travelling until next Tuesday and will take up the challenge then.

    Regards
    Errol

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! ds21bvh's Avatar
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    Hi Errol,
    I would unclip the furry seal before trying to fit both the trip base and stainless cover - it gets in the way.
    You need to hook the edge in the window slot, (great pics Matthew) and while "pulling it over" towards the inside of the car use a soft rubber mallet to send the stainless trim home. You need to makes sure the edge of the stainless is over as far as possible otherwise you will flatten the return on the trim.
    That's the only way I could get mine to fit...

    Cheers,

    Mark...

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Errol_S's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for all the advice. I consolidated all suggestions and this is what worked for me. First I lifted the front edge at one end very carefully, and then placed a thin putty knife into the open area. By simply tapping the putty knife with my hand it moved quite easily down the beading until it was off the securing track. When the progress was halted it was the knife fouling against one of the self tapper heads, and I simply moved it closer to the edge and continued.

    Having done all 4 doors I found no glue. The beading was clipped over the rail as shown by Matthew.

    Mark I will follow your advice when reassembling, but lots of preparation and spraying before I get there.

    Cheers
    Errol

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