It's a french invasion!
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 50
Like Tree13Likes

Thread: It's a french invasion!

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    139

    Default It's a french invasion!

    Hey everyone,

    It all started several few years ago with a C5, but due to a few recent additions i'm now up to five frogs in the driveway.

    About 2 months ago by sheer coincidence I was talking to a friend of my sisters whilst buying a Volvo from her, and she happened to mention that her brother had 2 old Citroens in his back yard. I was instantly curious, but some people have different definitions of 'old' so I was expecting maybe Xantias or perhaps cx's

    A week or two of phone tag before I got hold of the chap, and to my surprise and pleasure it turns out it was actually a pair of ID's!

    One was on the road around seven years ago and was a good runner, but is now quite extensively rotten, and the other appears sound but apparently had a terminal engine issue. A few weeks of figuring out how to get them off the deck and transported from where they were at the bottom of a long, quite steep and narrow driveway and they eventually made it home. So the plan (as was the previous owners plan but didn't get much beyond partially dismantling one car) is to make one good car out of two. Unfortunately I won't be able to get to them in the near future as I already have too much to do, but I will be tinkering here and there as time permits.

    Advertisement


    I have had a bit of a fiddle trying to get the rusty one running but I'm not getting much life out of it. All that happens when I connect a battery is the park lights work, but nothing happens at all when the key is turned so I don't know what's going on there. Some parts have been removed from the car, but it appears that everything that would make the car run, or even just crank, is still connected. I know this information is extremely vague but if anyone has any ideas i'd love to hear them.

    And the latest addition is last week I picked up a cheap 205 GTi that was advertised here some time ago. I'll put up the story with this one in the Peugeot section, but long story short I'm after a good used diff/crown wheel assembly to suit a 90 model. It has 16x63 stamped on it. I'd love to hear from anyone who might be able to help, or if there are alternatives from other models that will fit that might help also.

    Regards
    Ben

    It's a french invasion!-20140910_163652.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140910_163715.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140910_163738.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140910_163751.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140910_163759.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140910_163835.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140910_163851.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140910_163902.jpg
    Last edited by Captain Slow; 15th September 2014 at 10:23 PM.

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    10,188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Slow View Post
    ... I'd love to hear from anyone who might be able to help ...
    My father plays golf with not one, but three shrinks. I've induced an appropriate degree of paranoia in him by asking when the paper is due out, but I guess they may be looking for their next subject shortly. Happy to put you in touch!

    There will be many small differences between those two cars, so making one from the two may give you a mongrel of sorts. The earlier car could have the high ID19B top gear, which could make it a pleasant cruiser. The white car looks superficially quite rusty, but take the panels off and check the frame before condemning it. It may be restricted to the hanging panels, or possibly not. It's hard to know until you have a very good poke around.

    The starting issue: It's a carby with points ignition, so simple enough. Does it turn over? Do you have spark? Is the fuel stale? You just have to work your way through it I think, but some Aerostart might give you some indication as to whether it might be capable of firing. You could have a bad condenser or a loose wire at the coil and so on. Modern petrol goes off when left for more than a few months and will begin to smell awful as it does.
    Last edited by David S; 15th September 2014 at 10:32 PM.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Thanks David,

    Am I detecting some inter-marque rivalry? haha. I'll be honest I have not read all the forum rules, so if it's bad form to mention the 'others' in the Citroen section i'm terribly sorry

    The starting issue is there is no life out of anything right now, apart from the parker lights working as I said. Turning the key doesn't do anything, no ignition lights, no cranking, no clicking, nothing.
    Is there perhaps a main fuse or similar that provides power to the ignition circuit?

    Ben

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    10,188

    Default

    No, I was alluding to 'help' possibly being needed re the growing Citroen menagerie. What's the current count? 5? One that runs???

    Clean and test the fuses at the fuseboxes. That certainly can't hurt. Yellow is for the lighting as I recall, but the dash operated parking lights on one side are on a separate circuit. Also check the earth lead to the water pump housing. There's probably a lighting relay behind the dash cluster, so low battery voltage may affect that.

    If it's early enough, it may have the start solenoid at the battery terminal. You can manually operate the starter from it to see if there is any action. If it doesn't have the remote starter, there should be a second wire bundled with the heavy lead going to the starter to operate the starter solenoid and it should plug into the loom somewhere nearby. You might follow that and see if it is connected and/or use it to manually test the starter.

    The connectors in the harness are also prone to corroding and not conducting, so you could easily spend quite a few hours working your way around the ones you can access. There are a number of connections where the rear harness meets the main harness under the glovebox, where you really can't get at them with the dash in place.

  5. #5
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    No, I was alluding to 'help' possibly being needed re the growing Citroen menagerie. What's the current count? 5? One that runs???

    Clean and test the fuses at the fuseboxes. That certainly can't hurt. Yellow is for the lighting as I recall, but the dash operated parking lights on one side are on a separate circuit. Also check the earth lead to the water pump housing. There's probably a lighting relay behind the dash cluster, so low battery voltage may affect that.

    If it's early enough, it may have the start solenoid at the battery terminal. You can manually operate the starter from it to see if there is any action. If it doesn't have the remote starter, there should be a second wire bundled with the heavy lead going to the starter to operate the starter solenoid and it should plug into the loom somewhere nearby. You might follow that and see if it is connected and/or use it to manually test the starter.

    The connectors in the harness are also prone to corroding and not conducting, so you could easily spend quite a few hours working your way around the ones you can access. There are a number of connections where the rear harness meets the main harness under the glovebox, where you really can't get at them with the dash in place.
    IIRC, Yellow is all lighting except park lamps and headlamps, blue is park lamps. green is ignition fed circuits, and red is battery fed circuits.

    Which one are you trying to start? The start circuits are different depending on year, transmission, and luck of the draw.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Yes 5 all up, well 4 Citroens and the Pug. The one I didn't mention in the first post was my CX2200 Super. It's just about ready for historic rego, only needs new spheres.

    Thank you both for the electrical advice. The car with the engine that runs is the older all white one. I don't think it has a separate starter solenoid as I did look for one when I bought it after doing a few internet searches. There is an electrical box bolted to the side of the battery box/clamp thing. I'm not sure of it's function but it does not look like any starter solenoid i've ever seen, more like a relay box of some sort. My guess would be head lights possibly?

    The previous owner did tell me what years the cars were but i've forgotten, and it doesn't appear to be obvious to determine by looking at the plates in the engine bay, but I could very well be looking at the wrong ones. I might go out and have another poke around this afternoon. I know the fuses and contacts definitely need to be cleaned so that's as good a place to start as any.

    Thanks guys
    Ben

  7. #7
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Slow View Post
    Yes 5 all up, well 4 Citroens and the Pug. The one I didn't mention in the first post was my CX2200 Super. It's just about ready for historic rego, only needs new spheres.

    Thank you both for the electrical advice. The car with the engine that runs is the older all white one. I don't think it has a separate starter solenoid as I did look for one when I bought it after doing a few internet searches. There is an electrical box bolted to the side of the battery box/clamp thing. I'm not sure of it's function but it does not look like any starter solenoid i've ever seen, more like a relay box of some sort. My guess would be head lights possibly?

    The previous owner did tell me what years the cars were but i've forgotten, and it doesn't appear to be obvious to determine by looking at the plates in the engine bay, but I could very well be looking at the wrong ones. I might go out and have another poke around this afternoon. I know the fuses and contacts definitely need to be cleaned so that's as good a place to start as any.

    Thanks guys
    Ben
    Hi Ben:
    Looking at the white one, that appears to be '68 ID19 The dashes were different between the ID and the DS up to '69. Your green one I cant exactly date, but the door handles and the "safety" steering wheel place it as '72-'74. From 1970, the DS and the ID/DSpecial/DSuper got the same dash.

    As the car you want to start is the '68, be VERY, VERY gentle with moving the wiring around. The insulation will be brittle and will crack, flake and fall off if you so much as look at it wrong. If this is your restoration candidate, plan on buying a new front loom. Sorry, but that's just how these are. The '72 will not transplant without major surgery. As you get further into the car, I can give more detailed advice.

    Enough vegetables, on to the meat!
    The box on the side of your battery hold down is your voltage regulator. Any headlight relays are actually behind the dash, almost dead center on the firewall. Any relays at the battery tray will almost certainly be round, black, and be marked "Sanor". These will be for accessories like air horn. None of this will have anything to do with starting the car.

    There is quite literally only 'on' and 'off' on the ignition switch. 'Start' is a push button on the lowest row of knobs and switches, next to the ignition switch. It passes ground, not current to the starter solenoid.

    There should be a permanently attached solenoid on the battery cable. It sounds like you might be missing that. Is all you have a battery cable (not the negative- the positive) that goes directly to the starter? It is possible someone changed out the original starter for a late model one. Let me know what you find- a couple pics of the battery area and of the end of the positive cable will help. I'll be looking specifically for a red color sleeved wire paired with the positive cable. That will tell me late model.


    Bill


    Edit: paragraph breaks
    Last edited by Hotrodelectric; 16th September 2014 at 10:06 AM.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  8. #8
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Just thought of this- try some oven cleaner to get the fuse box terminals cleaned. Spray it on, let it do it's thing, then wash off. The cleaner is just caustic enough to get some metal to show, and washing off that area of the firewall with a judicious spray of water won't hurt anything.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  9. #9
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,743

    Default

    Best bet it too get someone have a look at there hulls for rust for you.... If your not immediately frightened after opening the boot on them both ..... well they bodes well for the rest of the car. Those later ones don't seem to rot the sills and jacking points out like the earlier cars did (I'm not quite sure why).
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  10. #10
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    8,257

    Icon5

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    Hi Ben:
    Looking at the white one, that appears to be '68 ID19 The dashes were different between the ID and the DS up to '69. Your green one I cant exactly date, but the door handles and the "safety" steering wheel place it as '72-'74. From 1970, the DS and the ID/DSpecial/DSuper got the same dash.


    Bill
    Bill surely the white car is the later model, flush door handles and later dash?

    If that soft steering wheel is original you have scored, very hard to find in that condition.

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    10,188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    Looking at the white one, that appears to be '68 ID19 The dashes were different between the ID and the DS up to '69. Your green one I cant exactly date, but the door handles and the "safety" steering wheel place it as '72-'74. From 1970, the DS and the ID/DSpecial/DSuper got the same dash.
    ...
    You need to find the chassis numbers to be sure of what they are. The order of the pictures and the white bonnet on the green car tricked me a little. Just to rehash this:

    Both cars have 4 headlights, so are post 67 and use LHM. The green car with the white bonnet and roof is the ID19B going by the trim, door handles, dash and other fittings. It should have the high ratio 4th gear, dropped after 1969 judging by the dash.

    The all white car looks to be a D Special going by the dash, door trims etc.. It has headrests on the front seats, which makes it a relatively late car given the local compliance rules. Is it a DS or an ID? Check with Harrison Anything after 1970/71 should also have a local compliance plate on the scuttle. The later D Special gained a Weber carby to replace the earlier Solex.

  12. #12
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBlood View Post
    Bill surely the white car is the later model, flush door handles and later dash?

    If that soft steering wheel is original you have scored, very hard to find in that condition.

    Cheers
    Chris
    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    You need to find the chassis numbers to be sure of what they are. The order of the pictures and the white bonnet on the green car tricked me a little. Just to rehash this:

    Both cars have 4 headlights, so are post 67 and use LHM. The green car with the white bonnet and roof is the ID19B going by the trim, door handles, dash and other fittings. It should have the high ratio 4th gear, dropped after 1969 judging by the dash.

    The all white car looks to be a D Special going by the dash, door trims etc.. It has headrests on the front seats, which makes it a relatively late car given the local compliance rules. Is it a DS or an ID? Check with Harrison Anything after 1970/71 should also have a local compliance plate on the scuttle. The later D Special gained a Weber carby to replace the earlier Solex.
    Yah, I goofed up. Green car is the '68. I know I'm not color-blind...

    The start button is on the steering pod directly behind the turn switch, not next to the ignition switch. You guys and your right-hook cars.

    The remainder of my rambling incoherence stands.

    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  13. #13
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    8,257

    Icon14

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    The remainder of my rambling incoherence stands.



    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,166

    Default

    Bill, a good right hook will stand you in good stead!
    Cheers Gerry

  15. #15
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,743

    Default

    I'm particularly fond of the '68 .... You gotta admire the use of haybale twine to hold the handbrake on
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  16. #16
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I'm particularly fond of the '68 .... You gotta admire the use of haybale twine to hold the handbrake on
    Rare 'country brakes' option.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    139

    Default

    ok.... Well after a bit of messing around this afternoon I have made some progress, and had a minor setback.

    First things first, I was told both cars were ID's, and i've found today that the later car, the one i'm trying to start, is a 74 model. The other one is covered up at the moment so haven't checked that one as yet.

    I think I might have gotten slightly confused with all the talk of model variations, as I could not find a start button any where on this 74 car, so i'm assuming that must have been in reference to the 68 one.
    With the 74 one the key seems to have the traditional off, accessories, then spring return on the start position. Not that it does anything at the moment.

    I checked the fuses in the engine bay near the passenger side firewall and although a bit crusty my multi-meter picked up 2 as having power on both sides of the fuse, so I considered them functional for the sake of testing purposes.

    I traced the wires from the starter and found the solenoid wire connector near the battery. I touched this to the positive terminal on the battery and the engine cranked over, Huzzah! lol

    So hot on the heels of this epic success, I then checked the points for a spark as the engine cranked. Nada. I tested for power at the points, nothing, same thing at the coil, nothing.
    So the problem seems to be something to do with the ignition wiring, perhaps the switch itself.

    So I thought I would hot wire the old girl and I connected a piece of wire from the + side of the coil to the battery. I went to manually open the points and as soon as I opened the contacts the distributor went and caught itself on fire. oops.

    Now I don't think it was anything I did, as I have done this exact thing with other non Citroen cars.
    I'm guessing there must have been something touching something it shouldn't be touching in the distributor.

    So to continue with trying to get this thing running, will the points setup from the 68 car fit the 74 car? Or the whole distributor perhaps?

    Another question I wanted to ask is do either of these cars look familiar to anyone? I was wondering if they might have popped up on the forum in the past. I think the all white one was in the ACT before moving to the Wollongong area. And the other one might have come up from Melbourne if I remember what I was told correctly.

    I thought i'd throw in a few more pictures too just for the hell of it. Note the interesting/disgusting remains of something that decided the the back floor area was a good place to expire.



    Attachment 60896Attachment 60897Attachment 60898Attachment 60899Attachment 60900Attachment 60901

  18. #18
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Slow View Post
    ok.... Well after a bit of messing around this afternoon I have made some progress, and had a minor setback.

    First things first, I was told both cars were ID's, and i've found today that the later car, the one i'm trying to start, is a 74 model. The other one is covered up at the moment so haven't checked that one as yet.

    I think I might have gotten slightly confused with all the talk of model variations, as I could not find a start button any where on this 74 car, so i'm assuming that must have been in reference to the 68 one.
    With the 74 one the key seems to have the traditional off, accessories, then spring return on the start position. Not that it does anything at the moment.

    I checked the fuses in the engine bay near the passenger side firewall and although a bit crusty my multi-meter picked up 2 as having power on both sides of the fuse, so I considered them functional for the sake of testing purposes.

    I traced the wires from the starter and found the solenoid wire connector near the battery. I touched this to the positive terminal on the battery and the engine cranked over, Huzzah! lol

    So hot on the heels of this epic success, I then checked the points for a spark as the engine cranked. Nada. I tested for power at the points, nothing, same thing at the coil, nothing.
    So the problem seems to be something to do with the ignition wiring, perhaps the switch itself.

    So I thought I would hot wire the old girl and I connected a piece of wire from the + side of the coil to the battery. I went to manually open the points and as soon as I opened the contacts the distributor went and caught itself on fire. oops.

    Now I don't think it was anything I did, as I have done this exact thing with other non Citroen cars.
    I'm guessing there must have been something touching something it shouldn't be touching in the distributor.

    So to continue with trying to get this thing running, will the points setup from the 68 car fit the 74 car? Or the whole distributor perhaps?

    Another question I wanted to ask is do either of these cars look familiar to anyone? I was wondering if they might have popped up on the forum in the past. I think the all white one was in the ACT before moving to the Wollongong area. And the other one might have come up from Melbourne if I remember what I was told correctly.

    I thought i'd throw in a few more pictures too just for the hell of it. Note the interesting/disgusting remains of something that decided the the back floor area was a good place to expire.



    Attachment 60896Attachment 60897Attachment 60898Attachment 60899Attachment 60900Attachment 60901
    Alrighty- you had a positive result. That is progress. Let's see if I can screw my head on straight (not cross-threaded!) and we can get through all this. **AHEM**

    Both cars basically are ID's The model name changed in '70 to DSpecial or DSuper, depending on exact trim level, engine spec, and gearing. David did a pretty good job of laying it all out earlier in the post.

    The '74 will not have a start button. That was dropped when the 3 dial dash came out. Your car, being a manual transmission, will have a merely conventional key start, i.e.a start position on the switch. To confuse you further still, the hydraulic shift cars did have a start switch on the shift wand all through production. You won't need to worry about that though. Just know that the '68 has a start button on the side of the steering pod, and the '74 starts by way of the ignition switch.

    3 of the fuses should show battery power- the red, green, and blue ones. The yellow will not show power until the light switch is tripped on.

    What solenoid wire are you talking about? The actual solenoid itself? Your pics didn't come through, so I can't see what you have.

    Whooops on the fire. What exactly smouldered? The distributors should cross over, but some of the later ones have what we call cassette points. If both cars are standard points, everything will cross over. I would be trying to ascertain the cause of the fire first, though.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    10,188

    Default

    Pics come up when quoted. Strange. Not after editing though. Stranger ... OK, so now they do!
    ... no longer. See Greenblood's post down a bit.


    You need at least the crossmember in picture#1. Not hard to find or replace. There is some non-standard wiring there, which may cause some issues if it's been fiddled with since it last ran. Has the condensor on the distributor failed? Infinite resistance or no resistance across it? It should be very high to be OK i.e. some Mega-Ohms. Is the resistor on the coil wired in the circuit? Can you check the coil windings are not shorted and remain separate?

    The connector with the red sleeves near the voltage regulator will be on the wire that runs to the starter solenoid. Back into the loom, it will go to the starter switch. You want to look at the very late factory wiring diagrams as there is a flying lead behind the dash that is not shown in the earlier diagrams given in the Autobooks manuals. Download the factory manuals. On fuses, note that there should be an inline fuse for each of the inner headlights where the guard harnesses plug in.
    Last edited by David S; 16th September 2014 at 10:38 PM.

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts FIVEDOOR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Posts
    21,024

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Pics come up when quoted. Strange. Not after editing though. Stranger ... OK, so now they do!
    I can't get them to come up
    Any day I wake up and don't have to go to work, is a good day
    Every day is a good day

  21. #21
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Don't remind me!
    Posts
    16,609

    Default

    Can't see them yet...

    Have we come so far from carbies and points, that people can't instinctively "hotwire" a car to start/run off the battery?

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Lets see if pics work this time

    It's a french invasion!-20140910_163844.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140916_160655.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140916_160951.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140916_160958.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140916_161004.jpgIt's a french invasion!-20140916_163536.jpg

  23. #23
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Hi Rob

    Quick note (can't be long) yah, I now see the pics. I see you have the 6-pin fuse box rather than the standard 4-pin. The two extras are I believe for left and right aux (swivelling) high beams.

    I'll be back later with more.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  24. #24
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    San Diego, California, USA
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    OK- let's try this. I found my copy of a late model Aus market wiring diagram (it's PDF, which I'm not able to readily send), and attached is the fuse list for the car I think.

    Copying from the original:
    Looking at the main 6-pin box on the passenger side of the car. From left to right:
    Fuse 1 mauve color sleeve, 10a: LH dipped headlamp

    Fuse 2 red color sleeve, 16a: tachometer
    rheostat and fuel gauge
    warning lamp cluster
    windshield washer pump and wiper motor
    accessory terminal
    brake lamps
    heating and fresh air blowers
    glovebox lamp
    clock

    Fuse 3 green color sleeve, 16a: interior and boot lighting
    direction indicators and warning lamps
    cigarette lighter
    rear window heating
    reversing lamps
    air blower
    battery charge circuit

    Fuse 4 white color sleeve, 10a: RH dipped headlamp

    Fuse 5 yellow color sleeve 16a: front and rear RH sidelamps
    number plate lighting,
    lighter, ashtray, heater control, clock, and instrument lighting
    side and tail light indicator lamp

    Fuse 6 blue color sleeve 10A: front and rear LH sidelamps

    Fuse 7 mauve color sleeve 10a: LH long range headlight (NOTE: this is a separate fuseholder next to the box)

    Looking at the fusebox next to the wiper motor on the driver side:
    Fuse 8 mauve color sleeve 10a: RH long range headlight (NOTE: this is a separate fuseholder next to the box)

    Fuse 9 white color sleeve 10a: RH main beam headlamp

    Fuse 10 yellow color sleeve 10a: LH main beam headlamp


    Now that I have all that out of my keyboard.....


    Hope this has some correspondence to the '74.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts fnqvmuch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    port douglas
    Posts
    1,105

    Default

    on the air duct - alec mildren racing - why does/doesn't that ring a bell?

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •