DS 23 Sterring Column Lock - Removal
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Dave Rogers's Avatar
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    Default DS 23 Sterring Column Lock - Removal

    Does anybody have any ideas as to how I can remove the conical nuts which hold the ignition key/steering lock in place. My ignition key barrel has collapsed internally rendering key stating impossible, so I can now only start the car by hot-wiring it. Fortunately the pin is not in the steering column so I can still move the car around my yard. The nuts I refer to are numbered "2" in the attached image and appear to start life with a hex head which twists off when tightened on installation. I can only think of slicing them vertically with a Dremel, the one closest to the driver would be possible to get to but the forward one is accessed via a hole in the under-dash, so space is severely limited. Any ideas would be most appreciated.
    Dave
    DS 23 Sterring Column Lock - Removal-screen-shot-2014-08-26-7.47.43-pm.png

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! mberry's Avatar
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    I'm sorry I don't have the answer Dave, I'm sure someone will know how. But, perhaps the barrel can be removed? I know that the barrel can be a problem, I rarely remove the key from mine. Good luck.


    MB

  3. #3
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Yah, we have the exact same problem on the LHD cars. IIRC, the cone nuts are relatively softer than normal nut so you do have a couple of options. You can try a small chisel or a sharpened screwdriver to drive them off. You might also be able to use a drill, and, going progressively larger get the nut to split. I've had some limited success with thrashing on a socket (US measure, not metric) over the nut.

    Do yourself a favor, though. With any of these methods, you run the risk of disturbing the lock pin, and releasing it to the lock position. Either remove the lock collar on the column (that can be a right bastard to do), or place a shim between the column and the lock pin.
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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Vincenzo's Avatar
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    I have just had the exact same problem, only with the locking pin engaged...bummer. I ended up using some needle-nose vice grips and approaching the cones end on. It took a couple of goes to get a grip position and correct tension but once locked on a solid smooth twist got them loosened. One was on very tight indeed. My grips jaws no longer line up...

  5. #5
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    vice grips can sometimes work. I've usually found them loose. I'd try bashing a cheap smaller socket onto it if possible too. Failing that use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot into it (painful).

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  6. #6
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Don't underestimate the helping power of coarse lapping paste when friction is a requirement.

    Heating a tight fit socket, will also transfer heat to the nut.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Dave Rogers's Avatar
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    They say that problems come in threes. Nevertheless it's surprising to have the same problem replicated 3 times simultaneously in various parts of the world, me, Vincenzo & gerrypro's mate! I'm going to try Shane's method tomorrow morning and thanks Gerry I now know which socket to use. Since my first post I've been able to source a useable old unit, but is without keys and comes off a BVH car so fits to the opposite side of the steering column compared to my manual car. Hopefully between the two units I can mix and match a workable unit. I'll report back on progress.
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Dave while you are delving into the depths of the wiring on the ignition switch can you please describe the way the two separate fly leads out of the back of the ignition switch attach to the main loom. Is there a big yellow wire involved? And if so where does it connect to the loom?
    Cheers Gerry

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