DS front brake caliper removal
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default DS front brake caliper removal


    I'm having trouble removing the RHS caliper, which is leaking.

    I've finally found the right combination of tools to undo the 2 small bolts under the radiator area. Does anyone know if the nuts are fixed or do I have to get a spanner onto them?

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    I have not been able to shift the large bolts. I know that they are supposed to be torqued to 13 - 14 kg m. I can only get about that pressure with the largest spanner+lever that I can fit under the car, but it will not move the bolt. A hoist would be handy!

    Don
    Citroen DS21 Pallas 1970 Renault 16TS 1976 Renault 5TS 1981

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Mungous's Avatar
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    You mean the 21mm head bolts that hold the calipers on? I use a 1/2" drive socket, extender and breaker bar with a length of pipe for additional leverage. They tend to let go suddenly, so mind where you hands go when they do finally give!

    The two 14mm head bolts holding the rad on should have captive nuts in the bottom of the radiator. Once out, I use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the end of the bolt so you can use a screwdriver from above to wind them back in.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Maybe clear a path for better access? Off with the radiator?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mungous View Post
    You mean the 21mm head bolts that hold the calipers on? I use a 1/2" drive socket, extender and breaker bar with a length of pipe for additional leverage. They tend to let go suddenly, so mind where you hands go when they do finally give!

    The two 14mm head bolts holding the rad on should have captive nuts in the bottom of the radiator. Once out, I use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the end of the bolt so you can use a screwdriver from above to wind them back in.
    Thanks for that. I can get better access from below, and the length of bar I can use is limited by the garage floor. I will jack the car up a bit higher which will allow me to use a longer piece of pipe on my torque wrench.
    The other bolts (14mm head) I'm referring to bolt the caliper to an attachment below the crossmember which the radiator is also fixed to, but the access to the nuts is severely limited by the strg rack and the Xmember. I'm hoping that the nuts are fixed!
    Don

    PS - that's a great idea about the radiator bolts.
    Citroen DS21 Pallas 1970 Renault 16TS 1976 Renault 5TS 1981

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Mungous's Avatar
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    Those brackets don't need to come off to remove the calipers. If you remove the cross-member you will find the job a lot easier - it is bolted to the calipers anyway. Pop your jack or an axle stand under the gearbox to support it when the cross-member is removed.

    With a 300mm 1/2" extender you can then easily get a socket and breaker bar on the bolts from above. And that means heaps more room to really get some force on them!

    I definitely wouldn't use a torque wrench to undo fasteners - there is no need to measure anything when undoing, and you may damage the torque wrench.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mungous View Post
    Those brackets don't need to come off to remove the calipers. If you remove the cross-member you will find the job a lot easier - it is bolted to the calipers anyway. Pop your jack or an axle stand under the gearbox to support it when the cross-member is removed.

    With a 300mm 1/2" extender you can then easily get a socket and breaker bar on the bolts from above. And that means heaps more room to really get some force on them!

    I definitely wouldn't use a torque wrench to undo fasteners - there is no need to measure anything when undoing, and you may damage the torque wrench.

    Correct - you really do not want to try and do this job from underneath. The other thing to do, if the securing bolts are really recalcitrant is to take a solid drift and using a hammer strike hard the top or flat of the bolts several times. The shock waves produced will really help in freeing up the corrosion that has formed between the threads of the steel bolt and the Al they screw into.

    The other thing to keep in mind is that when reattaching the caliper you need to pressurize the caliper before tightening the securing bolts. If you do not you run a quite real risk that the brake pads will not be in correct alignment with the disk.

    Steve

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