2CV6 Brakes Design
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Thread: 2CV6 Brakes Design

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 2CV6 Brakes Design

    I was reading the Haynes, and its not clear

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    Is the 2CV system a split diagonal system

    Or a split front to rear system


    Or does a brake line failure result in failure on all 4 wheels

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Split.
    Front to rear.
    No side to side. No diagonal.

  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    front/rear by the looks of it.... so in theory if the front fails, you should be able to stop on the rear before pumping the reseviour empty.
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    Thanks,, that is good to know that it has some redundancy , I have driven with a rusty disk on one car long time ago ,

    never again , I spend the money these days , I dont care for myself , but wife a sons are different

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    I will check my rears are working by doing a hard stop then feeling the heat in the rear drums ,,,, if any

    It may be that both cylinders are jammed and only the front disks are working , its just that it doesn't stop like a modern car so I am slightly worried

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    You want a car that's designed almost 70years ago to stop like a modern car You can't be serious

    Disc brake front, drum rear, weighs bugger all, it should pull up quite well.

    seeya,
    shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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    I mainly just want to check the rears are actually working, I have an idea Will jack the rear up and put a 3 foot bar on the rear wheel studs and get my son to put his foot on the brake just to check the torque on the rear wheel

    There is nothing wrong with a common sense check , except that nobody seems to do it
    jaahn likes this.

  8. #8
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renburg View Post
    I mainly just want to check the rears are actually working, I have an idea Will jack the rear up and put a 3 foot bar on the rear wheel studs and get my son to put his foot on the brake just to check the torque on the rear wheel

    There is nothing wrong with a common sense check , except that nobody seems to do it
    You need to look at the circuit diagram. Often french cars have a limiting valve on the rear axle. If you take the weight off the rear axle with a jack, you will get no pressure to the rear brakes.

    Do you have a 2cv manual there?

    seeya,
    shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renburg View Post
    I mainly just want to check the rears are actually working, I have an idea Will jack the rear up and put a 3 foot bar on the rear wheel studs and get my son to put his foot on the brake just to check the torque on the rear wheel

    There is nothing wrong with a common sense check , except that nobody seems to do it
    Climb under there and listen while a helper pumps the pedal. Oftentimes you can hear the shoes move. Had one like that about 10 days ago.

    Doing the Daffyduck dance via the AussieFrogs app. With a cane! gimp quack quack ow ow ow.

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    Thanks for the replies , yes I have a Haynes, Shane

    and thanks for the tip ,

    I will check it when the wife comes home and report

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    Report , works fine with a big breaker bar on the rear wheel nuts , plenty of grab , will put new disks

    on the front then I can drive like JBN

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    JBN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renburg View Post
    Report , works fine with a big breaker bar on the rear wheel nuts , plenty of grab , will put new disks

    on the front then I can drive like JBN
    You don't need brakes to drive like me.

    Just keep the right pedal down and aim for the empty spaces.

    If you don't have a good relationship with God, twiddle the wheel as appropriate. Utter the name of the Son of God when you scare yourself. Use any good Aussie expletive when another driver scares you.

    John

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    Got the tappets done , centre muffler on the way , looking at my adaptor that adapts a larger Z158 oil filter onto the engine, looks about double the stock filter size , and Im tempted to give some panel beating apprentices my guards , if I could find them , the apprentices that is

  14. #14
    JBN
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    Remind them how thin the metal is so they don't stretch it in their enthusiasm.

    I know an apprecntice hairdresser for when you need the hood to be replaced.

    John

  15. #15
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    Remind them how thin the metal is so they don't stretch it in their enthusiasm.

    I know an apprecntice hairdresser for when you need the hood to be replaced.

    John
    The front guards are the easiest panels to repair as they have some rigidity too them and lots of "crown" too the metal... The bloody doors are near impossible (ever so slightly crowned, so very difficult to work). The rear gaurds usually get bend aroudn the bottom edge, so loose all there strength (from memory we welded braces to the bottom edge of the rear guards on my mothers 2cv).
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    The front guards are the easiest panels to repair as they have some rigidity too them and lots of "crown" too the metal... The bloody doors are near impossible (ever so slightly crowned, so very difficult to work). The rear gaurds usually get bend aroudn the bottom edge, so loose all there strength (from memory we welded braces to the bottom edge of the rear guards on my mothers 2cv).
    Lots of good knowledge here

    I put a block of semi hard foam and wood under my seat , in effect almost zero cushioning

    I feel like Im sitting up like Jackie

    And will be ejected out of the window easily

    My eyes are just below the top level of the windscreen

    It feels good try it

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