Mirex instructions
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Default Mirex instructions

    I had a go at mirex on hose this afternoon and it worked but doesn't look right! Has anyone got instructions?
    Signed Thicko

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    'Please Explain'
    Cheers Gerry

  3. #3
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    The best instruction for Mirex is keep a mile away from it.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Oh Jesus . I folded tab like ligarex, wrapped it over between pin and frame then... Rolled it over top of pin then bent it back in and through the split in pin then bent it back again and under pin, cut it about 2cm and proceeded to tighten, anti clockwise if I recall. Ended up with roll of tightened strap around back of pin, it looks all wrong, I tried deconstructing an old mirex but couldn't get him undone sufficiently to see what was going on. Anyway it was late in the day and I was over it. You know it's time to pack it in when you can't find a tool immediately
    in front of you!
    So Friday is my next session.
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 3rd July 2014 at 12:01 AM.

  5. #5
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    This was all I could find- apparently there's several different "Mirex" out there. Worth an email...

    Ligarex - Mirex - Ligatech Befestigungstechnik
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    Yes I have used that site for info on ligarex, just emailed them, I think the penny will drop next time I look at it! It can't be difficult. Just doesn't have a keyboard.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    OK Now I am up to speed. I was unaware that is another banding system like Ligarex. The split pin variety is what was used on the rack gaiters on Tractions. To tighten these I just use a small screw driver. The trick to avoiding the roll of tape around the split pin is the pull it as tight as possible with a pair of pliers before folding it back over the split pin and cutting off the excess to leave approximately 15mm. Then the pin can be turned to complete the tightening. Usually about two turns!
    On traction rack gaiters always have the head of the split pin away from the convolutions of the gaiter! Obviously to avoid damage when tightening!
    Ligarex also makes clips in this style!
    Cheers Gerry

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    have you got that in a video demonstration version Gerry?!!! No seriously... : )

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    have you got that in a video demonstration version Gerry?!!! No seriously... : )
    No, mate I have not! It is not all that hard to work out though.
    Step 1. Bend the tape around the bracket leaving a 15mm fold back. Flatten the fold with pliers.

    Step 2. Pass the tape around the object to be fastened so that it completes the circle and lays in the 'U' of the bracket.

    Step 3. Now insert the split pin in the 'eyes' of the bracket with the head facing the end of the tube or gaiter that you are securing.

    Step 4. Now pass the tape around the diameter again so that it lays over the first circle of tape, and thread the end through the split of the split pin.

    Step 5. Pull the tape tight with pliers and bend back over the split pin.

    Step 6. Cut off the excess leaving about 15mm of the fold back.

    Step 7. Turn the split pin with a screw driver so that the tape turns under the split pin rather than over it. You will be turning the tape in the direction of your fold back. Or in other words you will be turning the pin towards the direction of the bracket that holds it in place.

    It is possible to generate considerable tension with this type of fastening. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!
    Cheers Gerry

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    I went ahead without instructions and concur that your description is correct Gerry. We need some photos to explain the process, got all my return lines back together today which was good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mirex instructions-image.jpg   Mirex instructions-image.jpg  
    Last edited by forumnoreason; 3rd July 2014 at 11:51 PM.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! ScotFrog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    I went ahead without instructions and concur that your description is correct Gerry. We need some photos to explain the process, got all my return lines back together today which was good.
    Did you paint your LHM reservoir tank or just clean it up? If you painted it where did you get the graphics transfer? My tank is unpainted and looks a bit scungy so I'd like to paint it for appearance's sake.

    SF

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts forumnoreason's Avatar
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    I did Scot, tried to cheer up the can but to no avail so went green. The issue with painting them is finding a clear coat impervious to LHM and anything else for that matter. I used KBS clear coat, did about 40 other things with it as we'll! Stickers come from Franzose. It is not exact to the year as the green resevoirs to my knowledge were earlier but compared to the best I could do otherwise, a better result. Etch prime then good old Brunswick green, cheap so good! Looks pretty close too. I'm chuffed the mirex behaved itself and I had all correct hoses and lengths to do job, the main return hose though in the manual is listed as 1160mm long and seems too much for the distance it has to go but anyway, I used 'normal' clamps for this hose as down the track it may be the first that needs replacing and I don't want to stuff around with mirex. Coincidentally the drain pipe on my tank was cracking on the bend at the bottom and that is a pipe which many owners may consider renewing since most would I expect have been there since year dot. 7x14 mm hose is size.

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! ScotFrog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forumnoreason View Post
    I did Scot, tried to cheer up the can but to no avail so went green. The issue with painting them is finding a clear coat impervious to LHM and anything else for that matter. I used KBS clear coat, did about 40 other things with it as we'll! Stickers come from Franzose. It is not exact to the year as the green resevoirs to my knowledge were earlier but compared to the best I could do otherwise, a better result. Etch prime then good old Brunswick green, cheap so good! Looks pretty close too. I'm chuffed the mirex behaved itself and I had all correct hoses and lengths to do job, the main return hose though in the manual is listed as 1160mm long and seems too much for the distance it has to go but anyway, I used 'normal' clamps for this hose as down the track it may be the first that needs replacing and I don't want to stuff around with mirex. Coincidentally the drain pipe on my tank was cracking on the bend at the bottom and that is a pipe which many owners may consider renewing since most would I expect have been there since year dot. 7x14 mm hose is size.
    Thanks muchly. Next cab off the rank on Sue.

    SF

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