CX Wiring
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Thread: CX Wiring

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    WRB
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    Default CX Wiring

    AAARRGGGgggghhhh

    Has anybody ever successfully been able to make sense of the wiring diagrams for these? I managed to get the horn working yesterday but, it was shear dumb luck (the trumpets aren't too well - sounds like sparrow farts on a muggy day...). If I move any of the wiring in the "rats nest", the engine stops running. What fun

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Aren't they subject to a simple numbering system like eighties/nineties Peugeot?

    Of course this catches you out when inexplicably, Wire 45 becomes Wire 288...

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Aren't they subject to a simple numbering system like eighties/nineties Peugeot?

    Of course this catches you out when inexplicably, Wire 45 becomes Wire 288...
    IIRC, 'Big Blue' is stuffed down in there along with everything else. That, and the grounding points are worse than dodgy.

    WRB, didn't you say this was your only car? You would probably do well to PM either Gerrypro, or Double Chevron. They're both intimately familiar with your problems.
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    The loom was made from wires of about 5 different colours and then many have an additional coloured collar at the terminations or sometimes a plastic end on a spade terminal. The trick is to know when you should be looking at the wire colour or for an often discoloured or missing collar or plastic end. For the multi-pin sockets, the diagrams typically give you the connector colour, the number of 'ways' it has and the pin location.

    There are also diagrams of component locations, which help a lot. You will expect to have at least half a dozen relays looking all the same near the battery.

    The 'big blue' relay for the Thomson-Brandt twin coil ignition system is somewhere behind the left headlamp, which might be best removed. There are three clips that turn 90 degrees to release the headlamp. It's simpler on the later cars because the centre mount is on the top of the headlamp and not under the bottom, where it is hard to reach. Some people have made up a tool from an old socket for this as they can be quite tight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    IIRC, 'Big Blue' is stuffed down in there along with everything else. That, and the grounding points are worse than dodgy.

    WRB, didn't you say this was your only car? You would probably do well to PM either Gerrypro, or Double Chevron. They're both intimately familiar with your problems.
    Thanks for the 'Heads Up' Bill. In my experience with my car the only way is to have the Schematic from the work shop manual as well as the Lay Out diagram. The problem is though that there are many permutations of model with additions for 'Air'and C-Matic plus on Aussie cars Swedish Spec antipollution circuits. Then throw in the variables for other peoples interpretations of which relay works what and where to put it. ( I could give a number of suggestions on where to put it ----none of them printable)
    All I can recommend is to carefully clean each connection------test each relay ( the covers come off to inspect the state of the contacts ) and then make sure that the earth points do indeed do that!!!!!!!
    I repaired my loom after it having been burnt by an arsonist ( and the rest of the car as well ) so with patience it is possible to get everything working. Just be Methodical!!!!!

    The W/Shop Manual has the layout diagrams. So if all you have is a Haynes manual I recommend that you down load the Factory Manual!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Thanks Gerry,
    I do have the factory manual so, I will just soldier on. There is a short somewhere in the ratsnest causing the engin to stop so, I will go through all of the wires one by one. There are about three new relays just hanging in space above the battery but, I think the short is in the old loom just above the negative terminal of the battery - just gonna take some time to clean it up. I get the Zantia back on Wednes day so, will be able to remove the battery and headlight for better access to it all. While the Zantia is a good car, the CX is much more fun to drive...

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Thanks for the 'Heads Up' Bill. In my experience with my car the only way is to have the Schematic from the work shop manual as well as the Lay Out diagram. The problem is though that there are many permutations of model with additions for 'Air'and C-Matic plus on Aussie cars Swedish Spec antipollution circuits. Then throw in the variables for other peoples interpretations of which relay works what and where to put it. ( I could give a number of suggestions on where to put it ----none of them printable)
    All I can recommend is to carefully clean each connection------test each relay ( the covers come off to inspect the state of the contacts ) and then make sure that the earth points do indeed do that!!!!!!!
    I repaired my loom after it having been burnt by an arsonist ( and the rest of the car as well ) so with patience it is possible to get everything working. Just be Methodical!!!!!

    The W/Shop Manual has the layout diagrams. So if all you have is a Haynes manual I recommend that you down load the Factory Manual!
    Thanks, Gerry. You were one of two I could immediately think of in the moment, the other popping up if you call his name three times

    I knew you had a number of problems, most of them beginning with "arsonist" and ending with "set fire". I had thought you had reworked your front harness. By the way, was the fu**er who did that found? Summarily executed, I would hope. Anyway...

    I recall that 'Big Blue' causes a fair amount of problems, mostly because of a crack in the solder joints on the connection tabs. Also, there was an acquaintance of mine who, with his CX GTi, made up a very nice stainless buss bar for all of the grounds in that area. These were the two problem areas that came to mind with WRB's description.
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    I don't know anything about that blue relay. Mine is a carb model!
    No we did not find out who poured petrol on it and set fire to it. Luckily it did not get under the bonnet ( hood ) or into the interior!
    I was able to use the original loom with only a few scorched section around the grille area needing replacement! But all connections needed cleaning to establish sound connections!
    Cheers Gerry

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    Is this extra fan harness of any use to you gerry? It's some kind of factory mod, presumably to add a 2nd cooling fan. Item 3 in this post:
    So, what are they and who can use them?

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    Thanks for the offer David , but I am afraid that I do not know what I could do with it. My car already has two cooling fans installed as OEM.
    Cheers Gerry

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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    AAARRGGGgggghhhh

    Has anybody ever successfully been able to make sense of the wiring diagrams for these? I managed to get the horn working yesterday but, it was shear dumb luck (the trumpets aren't too well - sounds like sparrow farts on a muggy day...). If I move any of the wiring in the "rats nest", the engine stops running. What fun
    What sort of CX is it
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    WRB, now you know why my favourite Aussiefrog froggers avatar was Hotrodelectric's old one with the hand reaching out of the mare's nest of wires. That was a CX owner going under for the third time, being consumed by a demon wiring loom, probably the bit above the battery. Gerry's advice is correct. Without stressing over where the hell the wires come from or go to, just methodically check the connectors, soldered joints and particularly the earth point to the body above the battery; it has 8 or 10 wires to it. Without arguing over the value of the factory manual, in the case of the CX25, the Haynes diagram is OK and easy to follow. Hope it's a simple fault to find, but if not, we're here, with the scars of experience.
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    I have found the wires that are causing the engine to cut out. A thick yellow one connected to a thin green one (that doesn't sound right...). Unfortunately, the short is happening inside the loom. I was thinking that it may work best, removing all of the wrapping and holding the wires together with cable ties untill I have the wiring in each loom sorted and then wrapping it all up again. I have stripped plastic off some wires to re-connect but, the wire is corroded inside and so, it will be better to replace them. I have manged to get the engine running smoother so, I must be on the right track

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P View Post
    WRB, now you know why my favourite Aussiefrog froggers avatar was Hotrodelectric's old one with the hand reaching out of the mare's nest of wires. That was a CX owner going under for the third time, being consumed by a demon wiring loom, probably the bit above the battery.
    CX Wiring-dcuhlmqlzdyizotjtuvo.jpg

    A friend of mine who is a graphics artist made that one a few years ago. I 'appropriated' it from him- it was originally for the club website.
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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    I have found the wires that are causing the engine to cut out. A thick yellow one connected to a thin green one (that doesn't sound right...). Unfortunately, the short is happening inside the loom. I was thinking that it may work best, removing all of the wrapping and holding the wires together with cable ties untill I have the wiring in each loom sorted and then wrapping it all up again. I have stripped plastic off some wires to re-connect but, the wire is corroded inside and so, it will be better to replace them. I have manged to get the engine running smoother so, I must be on the right track
    No, it doesn't sound right, but I've seen that sort of thing many a time over the years. Usually, the 'thick' wire will be a feed up to a connector in a universal (to all models within the range) loom, then past the connector a more specific loom to that model. Or, there is a thick wire, then several smaller wires feeding from it at a splice.

    Once you have your Xantia back, I would suggest parking the CX until you can effect more permanent repairs. One wire at a time to replace is a methodical, complete way to go, but I guarantee if you go willy-nilly, replacing one here, then another not in the same connection there, you will have the biggest, most balled up mess until you are complete. And that will just be your hair.

    It can be done, just keep your wits and pay attention to the details. Go logically, from one relay or one connector, then the next. If and when you need to stop, mark where you stopped, and resume from there. Keep a writing pad and pen nearby and keep copious notes. A roll of 13 or 19mm masking tape and a marker to mark ends and locations are your friends. Some digital pics as necessary won't go wrong either. Use the heat-sealable butt splices if you can get them. Stagger your splices as you can, so you don't have a ball of ten or twelve or whatever in one same spot. I don't use them (I'm usually doing some anorakish custom thing) but the pre-made relay sockets are A-OK. I do suggest smearing a good amount of electrical socket grease into the terminals once you have them reattached to the harness.

    And for the love of all that is holy, don't cheap-out and use the 75 cent/roll electrical tape. Stiff, difficult to apply, and won't look good or last long. You don't need to buy Scotch 33 (my favorite, but it is expensive), just don't buy the really cheap crap. Buy two rolls, although you likely won't need more than one. You can use the aforementioned masking tape to 'spot' the harness back together until you can get it wrapped. When you wrap, go from smallest branch to largest. Series of small branches? Wrap each one individually, but on the last one wrap it, then tie all the other branches together, and keep going onto the large one. Not only will your work flow, your work will be less likely to unravel a couple of years from now. Stretch your loom out to it's fullest length before you wrap.

    All this is going to take some time, but you will be happier with the results.

    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    I took it for a longish drive today just to remind myself why I am doing it. Magic.....
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