Distributor timing on an ID
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 16 of 16
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By Roger Wilkinson

Thread: Distributor timing on an ID

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default Distributor timing on an ID

    Not so long ago Caparobertsan had a thread in doing the timing. My suggestion was to advance it till "pinging" is heard and then back it off a touch.
    The thread seems to be gone. One response was the TDC trick with number one piston. It was a good explanation and I'll probably find it in a manual tomorrow.
    I have an idea that I position the distributor cap (clamped down) with No.1 lead over the rotor button "contact", secure the distributor, then open the points with a screwdriver. This will cause a spark at the --- this is where I get lost, as without the cap back on, it won't fire at No 1 lead.
    I've completely swapped over to a replacement distributor and the alignment of the rotor button to the slotted base is differant.
    I'll find it ------------------------ Michael

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    HELLO Michael
    I did manage to get correct timing by ear. Factory positioning was not dead centre so I went for drive like Roger suggested and trained my ear listing the sound. It no longer ping.
    1961 Citroen ID19(2010~), Holden Frontera(R.I.P 2002-2014), Honda Accord EURO(2006~)

  3. #3
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Warrnambool
    Posts
    2,346
    addo likes this.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Thanks Roger. I certainly have enough info from that thread to "do battle". --- Michael

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Symar/ca/usa
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Thanks Roger. I certainly have enough info from that thread to "do battle". --- Michael

    Michael - a complicating factor in timing older D engines or ones with a lot of miles on them is the problem of a worn camshaft profile and cupped lifters. With engines in this state, setting the advance to the 'factory' norm typically produces a 'sluggish' engine. Trying to find the best compromise between low to mid range acceleration and minimal 'pinging' can be a quite a delicate balancing act. And it does not take much wear to produce the problem.

    Steve

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Thanks Steve. Something I hadn't considered. I'm nearly there with the swapping of the distributor. Successfull with the 6mm rod to get the perfect firing position and positioning the distributor. Hope to complete the job this morning and the I'll see how it goes.
    Michael

  7. #7
    BVH Roger Wilkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Warrnambool
    Posts
    2,346

    Default

    Michael, Steve's point is that using the 6mm rod does not actually give you "the perfect firing position" when the engine is worn. That is why I suggested timing by ear to caparobertsan in the first place. Differences in fuels between when the engine was new and nowadays might also have something to do with it.

    Roger

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    Yes my distributor has quite bit of Play. That explains why Factory setting did not give me the right timing but it is a good starting point.
    I love my car because it always gives me some little things to do.
    1961 Citroen ID19(2010~), Holden Frontera(R.I.P 2002-2014), Honda Accord EURO(2006~)

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Symar/ca/usa
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    Yes my distributor has quite bit of Play. That explains why Factory setting did not give me the right timing but it is a good starting point.
    I love my car because it always gives me some little things to do.
    A decent auto machine shop should be able to re-bush the distributor body for you. With play in that shaft the advance will wander all over the place as the car is running. The other problem that occurs as the units age is that the advance spring (s) get weaker changing the slope and shape of the advance curve.

    Steve

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default

    I understand Roger but the replacement dizzy had the cam(at the top)set at a differant "degree" than the locating slot at the base.
    Anyway I thought I'd better get to know "how to do it by the book".
    I wasn't a happy chappy! I suppose that all these knowledgable "froggies" know that there are 2 TDC on No. 1 piston. One is the compression stroke and the other is the non-compression stroke. Well you can guess which stroke I was using to time the dizzy.
    When my mate dropped by and "put me right", I cranked her over and put the 6mm locating pin in once more but this time on the compression stroke. The rotor button was now turned 180deg. the other way. No wonder, it wouldn't go. I used the 12volt light and tightened the dizzy up and gave it a burst and my lovely replacement dizzy that's been sitting in a car in a paddock for 20 years was "alive" again.
    By this time it was dark. I drove home but the engine was lurching a bit so I advanced it with the knob I'd fitted inside the car and it purred all the way home.
    I'll advance the dizzy a tiny bit under the bonnet so I can turn the manual knob so it's centred.
    Well, it's a thankyou to all those that had suggestions on Kazu's site and this one. ---- Michael

  11. #11
    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,475

    Default

    What octane fuel are you using? Ever since I've switched from 98 straight with 95 and valve replacement juice, I've noticed the car runs a lot sweeter.
    1972 SM
    1989 BX 16 Valve

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,070

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    I wasn't a happy chappy! I suppose that all these knowledgable "froggies" know that there are 2 TDC on No. 1 piston. One is the compression stroke and the other is the non-compression stroke. Well you can guess which stroke I was using to time the dizzy.
    When my mate dropped by and "put me right", I cranked her over and put the 6mm locating pin in once more but this time on the compression stroke. The rotor button was now turned 180deg. the other way. No wonder, it wouldn't go. I used the 12volt light and tightened the dizzy up and gave it a burst and my lovely replacement dizzy that's been sitting in a car in a paddock for 20 years was "alive" again.
    l
    This is why you remove the valve cover. And rotate the engine to see when the inlet valve closes. Keep turning in the direction of normal rotation and the next TDC is on compression/firing stroke for that cylinder! Then install the distributor so that the rotor points at that spark plug lead contact in the distributor cap. To get an ideal neat set up you may have to change the leads around in the cap!
    Cheers Gerry

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default

    I've just completed a trip into SA going as far as Robe in the ID Slough Safari, doing a total of 655miles (1053km). My fuel consumption was around 25mpg (11L per 100km). With the high 4th gear, it was comfortable sitting on 63mph (around 100kph).
    Tweaking the timing with the advance/retard knob inside the car worked well.
    I'll check the points again to see how they are.
    Brother John rang me on my return journey and I told him that the tacho was "jittering about" a bit. I asked him that this could have something to do with the distributor. He went to see Lance at DS Motors. He rang back saying that lance thought the earth lead from the distributor might be a bit dodgy. With some electrical wire that had a clamp at each end, I clamped one end to the distributor and the other end straight to the negative terminal on the battery..On proceeding --- the tacho sat completely steady (smooth as silk). Something else to look at now that I'm back home.
    Stopping at Millicent for lunch at a park, the driver of the only other car parked there, got out and introduced himself and said he'd never seen another Citroen quite like mine. I explained that it was a Slough assembled Safari (I suppose Break is the correct term). Anyway he went on to tell me that he has a 1969 Hydraulique (late dash), a Pallas,I think he said, and also owns a 1974 '23 5 Speed Safari. He lives just out of Millicent.
    It was a fun trip. The work done with the changeover distributor paid off. I learned a bit more about the car in the last month and it has made me confident to drive the car as it was intended. ----------- Thanks again

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    You have tacho in your car?!
    You are brave! I have no confidence in my car to do such a long trip!
    1961 Citroen ID19(2010~), Holden Frontera(R.I.P 2002-2014), Honda Accord EURO(2006~)

  15. #15
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,426

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    You have tacho in your car?!
    You are brave! I have no confidence in my car to do such a long trip!
    She'll be right .... Jump in and drive.... What could possibly go wrong (no you don't need to talk to my wife ).

    He should have an earth wire from the dizzie down to the engine block. You can't rely on the dizzie clamp to earth it!
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Castlemaine Area
    Posts
    466

    Default

    Just to say that Millicent is in South Aus so quite remote country to own a D. The tacho ofcourse is standard in Michael's ID as it has what I imagine to have Lucas dash parts being English Slough built. Yes Michael said the small erath strap was connected as it should be to the distributor so maybe the connections on that or the main negative lead need cleaning up.

    John

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •