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Thread: Xantia purchase

  1. #1
    WRB
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    Default Xantia purchase

    I Bought this yesterday for $2400 and drove it back to Melbourne from Sydney. Runs sweetly, only driving problem is a binding clutch cable (yeah, I know but, at least I will get the opppertunity to replace the plastic clip with a metal one). The fan is only working occasionally so, an under-dash wiring problem to fix. At this stage, the front tyres, windscreen wipers and a rear sphere connector leak are all I can see that are needed for a roadworthy. I imagine there will be some perished rubber boots, track rod ball joints etc, but, I may get lucky. These are truly underated. Apart from a hard steering wheel (Arthritis), the drive home was effortless and, I am getting use to the manual Trans fairly quickly...

    cheers Warren

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  2. #2
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    Yes, under-rated for sure, but the economics of a major repair or compound non-maintenance now means it takes little to see one scrapped. A new clutch cable will probably transform it, but they seem to deteriorate fairly quickly. If I were to own one long-term, I'd look into replacing the cable with a hydraulic clutch assembly.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! AndS16's Avatar
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    Hi Warren,
    Nice Xantia. I've had mine for over 12 months now and only problem
    was a leak at the connection near front accumulator.Fixed with a hose clamp.
    I love these cars and hope you have many years happy motoring.
    Best $1000 I ever spent.

    Cheers
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  4. #4
    WRB
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    This one has been maintained via the logbook and only has 150k on the clock. Whenever anything broke, it got fixed at the following service. It has been in the same family since new so, barring any major meltdowns, it should last a while if I look after it.

    I am thinking about changing the clutch to hydraulic...


  5. #5
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I wouldn't say that's super easy. You fit an ML5 gearbox as more often found on CT and Activa models and use the hydraulic clutch bits and pedal from them or a diesel Xantia in the UK. NOS clutch masters and pipework are floating about, you might pay £120 plus post for the master and piping.

  6. #6
    Tadpole
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    Default Congratulations Warren!

    ...and a touch of envy as mine will cost twice your purchase price to get back in proper shape; it's not pleasing me at the moment!

    This is the car I drove a while ago and placed a pointer to in the Cars for Sale/Wanted section (F/S 1998 Xantia 75th Anniversary 16V 5SP low kms on Carsales, Sydney). Out of curiosity did you spot it on Aussie frogs or Carsales?

    I'm glad another Xantia has gone to a good home, as David noted, they're at a point where repair and maintenance costs can easily outweigh the apparent value of the car. My impression is that yours will stay the distance and ultimately become an appreciated classic.

    As for the clutch, a binding cable makes sense. It's a small price to pay however for not being a (much maligned) AL4.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    Agreed they are a brilliant car. You will have a few hydraulic leaks to fix but do them as I am sure you will want to keep it. People often make the mistake that they are uneconomical to fix because the cost of repair is more than they are worth second hand. A more realistic way of thinking is comparing to the cost of replacing the vehicle. There is nothing in the new Citroen lineup to compare IMHO and that means really nothing in the market that can beat them. They have that same feeling that all proper Citroen have of wafting along the road un fazed by what is rolling by underneath. And I bet you used under 7l/100km on the drive which makes them very good in the current climate.
    Mine

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    In the family

    Xantia SX

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    Make sure you have the later mcPherson strut rubber mounts, you really do not want the dreaded bonnet reshaping when they fail, I know the hard way! Look it up there are lots of threads on it.

    Enjoy your Xantia

    agd123

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    WRB
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    Thanks for the advice about the strut rubbers. The car will be going in for a roadworthy inspection on Thursday at Paris
    motors so, I will ask them to check. Gets great fuel economy.

    cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    Thanks for the advice about the strut rubbers. The car will be going in for a roadworthy inspection on Thursday at Paris
    motors so, I will ask them to check. Gets great fuel economy.

    cheers
    Paris motors or Auto Paris?

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    Probably Paris motors Lol!

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    WRB
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    Why are Paris Motors funny? Is there someething I should know before I take the car there?

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    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Nah there very good, Joe and Joe there know there Citroen's very well. My Lol was towards Daniels question about auto Paris or Paris motors

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    I'd just never heard of Paris motors before.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    This one has been maintained via the logbook and only has 150k on the clock. Whenever anything broke, it got fixed at the following service. It has been in the same family since new so, barring any major meltdowns, it should last a while if I look after it.

    I am thinking about changing the clutch to hydraulic...

    It is no wonder it is hard to sell a good BX, is it?

    Great buy, with at least 150,000 km to go. You'll enjoy it more and more with time. I love ours and it has been 12 trouble-free years now.

    Regarding the clutch, ours is original at 18 years and the cable is fine so far. But we've only 90,000 km on it.

    Please tell me more about the metal clip - what is the source please?

    Best wishes
    JohnW

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  16. #16
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    Thanks for the advice about the strut rubbers. The car will be going in for a roadworthy inspection on Thursday at Paris
    motors so, I will ask them to check. Gets great fuel economy.

    cheers
    They may not know what to look for and the mounts might look fine. If you can't verify that the original front strut mounts have been changed, you really should dig in the pocket and get new ones. As a one owner car you might be able to get the question answered, but I'll bet they are original - one owner, cared for etc means it hasn't had the abuse that leads to premature mount failure but it is catastrophic if it happens and the replacement mounts don't fail through the bonnet.

    One check is a broomstick across the mudguards - the mount top nuts should be well below and equal distances from the straight broomstick. I can't remember how far - 10-20 mm I think - but at least you would then have a baseline for future monitoring. And of course if one is much higher, move quickly to replace.

    Xantias are wonderful cars.
    JohnW

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  17. #17
    Tadpole
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    Default Strut mounts and mech.

    As I recall, the car comes with extensive logs and the seller can provide you with the contact details of the mechanic who serviced the car for most of it's life.

    I believe this one has the later strut mounts which don't go through the bonnet if they fail. From my experience (that is: deep concern about this happening), the condition of the mounts can be checked by several means.

    The clearest explanation given to me is this: Being rubber, the mounts crack with age. The condition is hard to see when under load as the symptoms will not show when they are compressed. To check, the car needs to raised and the front suspension allowed to drop. The mounts can then be checked for cracks. How many or much is up to someone with experience: it's a matter of interpreting the symptoms and deciding if there's another several thousand km or they should be done now. I had mine done around 130,000k, but it is an older series 1.

    Sorry if I am repeating information or dis-infomation covered elsewhere.

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    JBN
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    On the first day after I aquired a Xantia, I replaced the "silly spring" in the brake pedal with a bit of equal length conduit. Citroen thought, in their wisdom, that people didn't like the feel of the CX/BX brake pedal and felt that the Xantia's should feel more like a normal car. They incorporated this spring to absorb some of the foot pressure before anything happened. Sales and marketing won over the biys from engineering.

    Replacing the spring with something not compressible gives you the brakes that others would die for. They are instant. A slight caress has you stopping. Keeping the heel on the floor, twisting the right foot sideways gives you either brakes or acceleration. You are always 1/2 a second quicker than any other car on the road in getting your foot to operate either pedal. I made sure I did this BEFORE my wife ever drove the car. She thinks superb brakes are normal.

    John

    PS. To do this, pull the brake pedal upwards (requires quite a bit of pressure) to disconnect the pedal from the spring/brake valve. Remove spring (about 1" long) and cut some conduit to the same length. Replace pedal to valve after inserting conduit and enjoy the most pleasant brakes in the world.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WRB View Post
    Why are Paris Motors funny? Is there someething I should know before I take the car there?
    Good luck with Paris Motors.

    Let us know how you go; I'll never go back there as I was cheesed off after waiting 2? weeks for a RWC inspection for a Dee; it was rejected on sight. Got one elsewhere - no problems.

    JAJEA
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    On the first day after I aquired a Xantia, I replaced the "silly spring" in the brake pedal with a bit of equal length conduit. Citroen thought, in their wisdom, that people didn't like the feel of the CX/BX brake pedal and felt that the Xantia's should feel more like a normal car. They incorporated this spring to absorb some of the foot pressure before anything happened. Sales and marketing won over the biys from engineering.

    Replacing the spring with something not compressible gives you the brakes that others would die for. They are instant. A slight caress has you stopping. Keeping the heel on the floor, twisting the right foot sideways gives you either brakes or acceleration. You are always 1/2 a second quicker than any other car on the road in getting your foot to operate either pedal. I made sure I did this BEFORE my wife ever drove the car. She thinks superb brakes are normal.

    John

    PS. To do this, pull the brake pedal upwards (requires quite a bit of pressure) to disconnect the pedal from the spring/brake valve. Remove spring (about 1" long) and cut some conduit to the same length. Replace pedal to valve after inserting conduit and enjoy the most pleasant brakes in the world.
    Spot on. Best car improvement I ever did in 15 minutes. I used dowel. The spring was ridiculous.
    JohnW

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  21. #21
    WRB
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    Well, the roadworthy is costing $1600 which means that I have paid 5 grand for a Zantia..
    The car came with a new "piink inspection slip" from NSW so, I am going to look into who let it through and see what I can do about it....

    JW I have a metal spring coming from 213805 - Spring Steel Clutch Clip

    I am not sure how I can tell the difference between the old sus rubbers and the new ones so, if someone can let me know, I would be much obliged...

    cheers
    Warren

  22. #22
    WRB
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    ummm - it is actually 4K so, I guess that is not so bad for a good one.

  23. #23
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    The brake spring is a simple fix if someone hasn't already done it ....

    Terrible RHD Xantia brakes

    Doesn't the NSW "annual roadworthy" caper make an absolute mockery of "annual roadworthies" making cars safer. All it does is drive the sales of new cars up (which is it's aim I guess).

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  24. #24
    WRB
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    I will do the brake fix as soon as I get it back from Paris Motors (Wednesday). Thanks for the tip - I was wondering why they were so spongy

  25. #25
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    If it's any compensation WRB I recently sold a 1999 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo and the RWC for that was about $1500-1600 as well.
    Victorian RWC inspections are pretty tough.

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