C5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?
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Thread: C5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?

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    UFO
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    Icon5 C5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?

    I thought it was time I laid tools on the C5 myself as I can't be bothered taking the car to Sydney for what should be an easy enough job. Has anyone else tackled replacing rear discs and pads on a C5 X7? Any clues/hints/warnings?

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    Craig K
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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    If it's an electric handbrake one, you may need the dual pin wind back tool. I've got a wind back set you could borrow, but guess what? I'm in Sydney.

    By the sound of things, probably time to bleed the brakes through with new fluid as well. Unless you are a dye-adder, it's usually cheapest to look for a brand of DOT4 that's a different colour to existing.
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    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    if it is a real Citroen the handbrake should be on the front wheels. I am feeling worried
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    There's an interesting article about these cable puller electric handbrakes at http://www.motor.org.uk/documentlibr...1-techtalk.pdf

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Here is citroen service pic. Don't play with the electric handbrake.

    I had a look on Citroen Service and it doesn't look to hard but not as easy as on an XM. The brakes on ours are very Peugeot. The added complication at the rear is that the handbrake requires you to wind the pistons back in rather then just pushing them in. If looks like you might need a special tool as well to be able to lock into the two holes in the piston.

    I think you disconnect the springs you can get the caliper off the pads to get the old pads out. You may need to take of the caliper support so you can get the disc off though. I had to do that on the Xantia recently.

    Cheers,

    Ken W
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails C5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-rear-brakes.jpg  

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    Be warned - You should disconnect the battery so that the electric handbrake can't operate unexpectedly when someone opens a door etc.. If you have the pads out and it operates, it can run past it's limit and destroy the internals. That would be a very expensive mistake costing you more than you would ever save with DIY service work for most of your ownership!
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    con
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    Craig,

    If the C6 is the same then this guide may be of some use -

    Downloads / Brakes / C6 Changing the Rear Brake Pads - C6owners.


    And this lists all the braking system guides -

    Brakes / Downloads - C6owners



    con...
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    Thanks David, Ken, Addo, Con and Seasink,

    I had seen comment on FCF about deactivating the auto park brake plus disconnecting the battery and fully intended to do so. Don't want nasty $urpri$e$!.

    Addo has already made contact re collection of the tool tomorrow while I'm in Sydney.
    Last edited by UFO; 10th April 2014 at 01:30 PM. Reason: added thanks for Con - he posted at the same time I posted this
    Craig K
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg C View Post
    if it is a real Citroen the handbrake should be on the front wheels. I am feeling worried
    They aren't trailing arms. So the wheelbase won't change (ie: the handbrake should be ok back there). Have a look under a Poogoe 407 or late C5/C6 ... it's a really nifty setup.

    The 407 of course sucks eggs 'cos it sits way low and doesn't level.... With a towbar on the back you'll hammer the back of the car into the ground consantly driving out of carparks ( usually preceded by smashing some fragile plastic under it's nose as it crashes into the gorund as well ). Bloody crappy modern poogoes.

    seeya
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    Shane, you need one of these - A Landrover with DS suspension. No more towing blues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Shane, you need one of these - A Landrover with DS suspension. No more towing blues.
    More likely, Shane needs a 'Homer'.

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Shane, you need one of these - A Landrover with DS suspension. No more towing blues.
    I've been thinking about that .... It wouldn't work as a 4wd. A bog standard land rover keeps it's wheels on the ground ...



    That's why there so capable offroad. Now with citroen hydraulics and an anti-rollbar it's not going to have *any* axle articulation, the rollbar is going to pick the other side wheel straight up off the ground.... They'll pickup on lift easily... just drive one wheel up onto a little mound and watch what happens.

    You'd somehow need 4 x height cor rectors and a way of balancing the body across the axles to run the hydraulics on a 4wd.

    seeya,
    shane L.
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    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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    Can we keep to the topic please?
    Craig K
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    Can we keep to the topic please?
    Of course....



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    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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    Arrived home today to find the card from TNT telling me that the parcel with discs and pads is not on the doorstep as instructed, but in bloody Nowra - where no doubt it will be until Monday. I will try the depot, probably in vain, tomorrow morning.

    Tool set collected from Addo in Sydney today.
    Craig K
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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Did you get it done before leaving for Cit-In?

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Did you get it done before leaving for Cit-In?
    Well as we will not be going to Cit In until at least next year - Yes!

    Will update this thread with description and pics later.
    Craig K
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    OK, here is some description and pics. All care taken, no responsibility for your mistakes.

    I did this job on the driveway at home and of course use of a hoist would have made it easier. This is actually the first time I have laid tools on this car as up to now all work has been done by the dealer.

    Try to park the rear of the car on some thickish timber plates - eg 25mm or so thick to give the required lift clearance for later on. I did not want to do the job with the suspension fully extended. You may choose to do so if you wish.


    • If doing this on the ground, chock the front wheels front and rear sides
    • Suspension in lowest setting
    • Gearbox in Park
    • Set the auto park brake feature to OFF. With ignition on, push the left roller in the steering wheel pad, go to vehicle parameters, scroll to auto park brake, push roller to change to un ticked, then scroll to OK and push.
    • Foot on brake, push park brake "lever" so that park brake dis-engages (whirr from under car). Park brake should now be off. Turn off ignition.
    • I did not disconnect the battery. You may choose to do so
    • Remove key from barrel. Idiot proofing feature
    • Loosen rear wheels studs ready for removal and jack one side of car and remove wheel. Use extender stud to make life easier.
    • Remove park brake cable from its connector at the base of the calliper then withdraw including its plastic guide. Take note of how and where the rectangular guide around the cable attaches
    • Remove brake calliper studs using Torx T55 bit and lots of strength or a percussive persuader against the bar - you need to "crack" the Loctite used to hold the studs in. Itís a bit of a fiddle to get the tools in the right place and be careful of the brake hose when doing the top stud. To me it looks to easy to damage if you slipped in enthusiasm.
    • If your discs and pads are very worn you may need to completely remove the disc and calliper together. It should be about a T27 torx to remove the two screws in the disc
    • As mine were well worn I had to do the previous step and also decided to remove the brake pipe. 11mm spanner. Have a suitable pipe and vessel ready to collect dribbling brake fluid
    • Once the disc and calliper were off I had to gently press the calliper back against a padded hard surface to get the remaining fluid out so that the calliper would open enough to remove the disk and then pads.
    • As I later found it also makes refitting easier if you remove the tension spring that is attached to the park brake lever arm after removing the calliper.
    • Remove the anti rattle spring from the front face of the calliper
    • Remove the outer and inner old pads Ė there is a small tension spring attached to the the calliper edge of the inner pad. Use a little force and the whole pad and spring will come out.
    • Using a suitable piston wind back tool, wind the piston back in Ė clockwise both sides. This works much faster without the park brake lever tension spring in place as I found on the second side I did.
    • Clean the calliper as much as you wish with a suitable product.
    • Grease the slides of the calliper with a suitable grease.
    • Fit new disk and marvel at how clean and shiny it is (no pics taken! DíOh!!)
    • Place new inner pad in calliper then new outer.
    • Ensure calliper is fully relaxed and then fit over the disc edge and guide into place using one of the calliper studs as a temporary holder
    • Put a small amount of Loctite on the other stud and fit to finger tightness.
    • Remove the holder stud and Loctite and refit to finger tightness
    • Tighten both studs using a bar and tool
    • Refit brake hose if you have removed it
    • Reconnect the tension spring to the park brake lever if you removed it.
    • Reconnect park brake cable ensuring you reconnect the guide on the outer of the cable
    • At this time I had to refit this side wheel then do the same procedure on the other side as I did not have the car on stands to hold the whole rear of the car up. If youíre doing this on a hoist or with the rear completely on stands then proceed to do the whole procedure on the other side of the vehicle
    • After completing the second side and you have double checked that all connections are in place Ė brake lines, park brake cable, park brake tension spring Ė then proceed to the normal process of bleeding the rear brakes - this may be with a brake bleeding device or with an assistant starting the car and activating the brakes to your instructions.
    • Once you are confident the brakes are bled properly, have the assistant manually activate the park brake. Then turn the park brake off. If all looks ok, then activate the park brake again and get the assistant to hold the lever for a few seconds for Maximum Tightening of Park Brake and the resultant ďBoingĒ sound from the console.
    • All should be OK
    • Refit wheels, lower car and tension studs.
    • If you usually use the auto park brake feature ensure you reactivate it through the vehicleís menu as you are used to it working and donít want to return to the car one day and not find itÖ.
    • Take for a careful drive to check the kwalitee of yaw werk.


    As you can see from the pics, the pads and disks were WELL worn. My car has done almost 127k km and the discs and pads in the pics are the second set of discs on the car and the second set of pads on these discs. Most of my driving has been distance trips. I travel 70 km round trip each day to work and most requires no braking. I also use the gearbox to slow down.

    New discs are 13mm thick and new pads are 17mm thick (plate and material). The old ones came off at 10.5mm for the disc and 10mm for the pads. Not quite to the metal but getting close!



    You may note too the small amounts of copper grease on the edge of the hub and wheel stud sockets. Last time I had the wheels off I found they stick quite wheel to the inner hub surface and when removing the wheels for this job they came off far easier. I also usually use copper grease on wheel studs for ease of fitting and removal.

    C5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-c5x7-rear-brakes-2.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-c5x7-rear-brakes-3.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-c5x7-rear-brakes-5.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-c5x7-rear-brakes-6.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-c5x7-rear-brakes-7.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-c5x7-rear-brakes-8.jpg
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    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    And I thought CX handbrakes were bad. Now I feel better.
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg C View Post
    And I thought CX handbrakes were bad. Now I feel better.
    They do look worn like CX front brake rotors do at about 200,000kms rears always look new on a CX
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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Craig: Which (if any) of the adaptors fitted the C5 pistons? (Can you mark it with texta or engraving, please?)

    If none, what do we need to buy or make?

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    Adaptor A was perfect and is now also marked C5 X7. Note you do not use the left hand thread device for C5 rear brakes - only right hand thread.
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    Craig K
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    Fantastic step by step directions Craig.

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Can you be more specific please. What thread type do you need for C5 series 1 and 2 and what thread type do you need for C5 X7? Are they different and are they different from BX and Xantia front calipers?

    Cheers,

    Ken W

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    Ken

    I've no idea about S1 and S2 C5s as I have never laid a hand on either except for doing an oil change on one once some years ago.

    OK, both rear callipers wind in clockwise. I think it would be safe to assume the fronts are the same. Earlier info referenced re C6 rear brakes show that the left rears wind anti clockwise on C6s. This is not the same on C5s.

    Below are pics of the toolkit I was loaned to do the job. You can see it covers all sorts of cars with the adaptors inside. I only used adaptor A and the right hand threaded piece - truth be known I could probably have used the left anyway as I only required hand pressure to wind in as per my method above.

    I have also photographed the adaptor showing measurements. Some could probably knock up this tool in an hour out of some bailing twine and rusty nails. Although as you might see for those who have a variety of cars the kit itself would be useful. I'm sure there's an adaptor in there for BX and XM front brakes.

    Hope this all helps.

    C5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-03.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-04.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-07.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-08.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-09.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-10.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-13.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-16.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-15.jpgC5 X7 - replace rear discs and pads - easy or hard?-brake-tool-14.jpg
    Craig K
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