No power to DS starter motor!
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default No power to DS starter motor!

    I jumped in the D late last night after I had driven it in the rain. On turning it over all the electrics died, sure enough an ever so slightly loose negative on the battery.
    I tightened it up and all the electrics came back but not starter at all, no click...
    Had a friend help me push start it, it roll started in 1st very easily.

    So... Fuses look good, wires are all attached. What to check for?
    Can the starter be 'remotely' kicked by crossing wires, i.e. the equivalent of a screwdriver across it's terminals?

    It does have a brand new high amp starter battery which kicks it over very quick, then it fires... Only a week old.

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    It also has the high torque starter which must be 6yrs old at a guess.

    Any help appreciated

    Harley


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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Fixed!

    I took the negative battery terminal off and gave it a good clean/scrap/file.
    Bang!
    It started...
    I guess the corrosion was insulating enough that the high amp required for the starter was breaking the contact...?

    I might investigate loose connectors more...

    Harley

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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Excellent.
    Do the dance.

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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    On closer inspection I found a corroded bullet connector for the starter...

    No wonder my wife doesn't trust the DS on her own, but she still loves it!...
    These cars are like French women, love them but never trust them! :p

    Harley

    Sent via the future...

  5. #5
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley View Post
    Fixed!

    I took the negative battery terminal off and gave it a good clean/scrap/file.
    Bang!
    It started...
    I guess the corrosion was insulating enough that the high amp required for the starter was breaking the contact...?

    I might investigate loose connectors more...

    Harley

    Via the aussiefrogs App
    Here I come to save the.........what? You already fixed it? Oh, OK. Cool. Darn. Missed another one.

    More seriously, if you have a Dremel, one of the small ball-type rotary cutter bits work a treat on the female ends. A couple or three passes on each 'finger' of the terminal does the trick. You don't have to press hard or have the tool at full chat. You don't need to remove the rubber insulator. Time consuming, but it beats trying to find and apply replacement ends.

    You can buy 4mmID/8mmOD silicone tubing if necessary on the females, just be warned that it can be a bit of problem to use even when the terminal is greased with a bit of bulb grease or spark plug boot anti-stick. Once it's on though, the terminal grip is phenomenally tight.

    Usable 4mm female ends are available from either Winzer or Wurth. I do not recommend the ones you would normally see at the usual parts stores, unless you REALLY need to. They're pretty fragile in that environment.

    Any progress on your Honda/D Hybrid?
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotrodelectric View Post
    Here I come to save the.........what? You already fixed it? Oh, OK. Cool. Darn. Missed another one.

    Any progress on your Honda/D Hybrid?
    The silicon hose idea sounds like a good one ;-)

    I'll do a little update RE: Honda progression in other thread.

    I've got another one for your Hotrod...

    Why doesn't my rear demister work?

    The terminal had broken off the screen, I had an auto-elec solder it back on and hook it up but he only got a very low resistance reading off it.
    From memory there was one wire on the LH rear we connected and the other side of the screen was then connected to earth?

    Cheers,

    Harley

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger
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    There's quite a lot of work dealing with 40 years of corrosion on all of the connectors. It takes time to work your way through them. New connectors are available from the usual European outfits, but if you just need a couple of them I should have a few spare. Or splice in a connector from a wreck.

    Re the demister. Yes, the earth wire is on the right, so check if it earths and that you have 12 volts at the left side.

  8. #8
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley View Post

    Why doesn't my rear demister work?

    The terminal had broken off the screen, I had an auto-elec solder it back on and hook it up but he only got a very low resistance reading off it.
    From memory there was one wire on the LH rear we connected and the other side of the screen was then connected to earth?

    Cheers,

    Harley
    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    There's quite a lot of work dealing with 40 years of corrosion on all of the connectors. It takes time to work your way through them. New connectors are available from the usual European outfits, but if you just need a couple of them I should have a few spare. Or splice in a connector from a wreck.

    Re the demister. Yes, the earth wire is on the right, so check if it earths and that you have 12 volts at the left side.
    Further to the rear demister, over time the elements on the rear glass can break down - check that you have continuity.

    You can buy a kit out of the UK - see here. . .
    DS Rear Window Demister Kit
    From what I've seen of the kit I would use the existing bus bars cleaned up and run the adhesive elements only.

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

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  9. #9
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley View Post
    The silicon hose idea sounds like a good one ;-)

    I'll do a little update RE: Honda progression in other thread.

    I've got another one for your Hotrod...

    Why doesn't my rear demister work?

    The terminal had broken off the screen, I had an auto-elec solder it back on and hook it up but he only got a very low resistance reading off it.
    From memory there was one wire on the LH rear we connected and the other side of the screen was then connected to earth?

    Cheers,

    Harley
    Yah, David has it, the other lead is earth. If your sparky tested only from the terminal to an area directly past it, you only are gong to get a low resistance reading. Power across the demister grid will only be a couple of ohms anyway. I'll have to check around and see what the reading should actually be- can't be very high. But you need to test from one terminal to the other.

    Which brings us to Chris' point, that the grids do degrade over time. There was at one time you could buy the special paint to touch up a broken 'wire' on the grid. By now though the grid is old enough to have multiple breaks, scratches, and even be just plain missing. You'll need to visually check each line individually.
    Any break or missing section means a loss of power on that line.

    Check to make sure you are even getting power. The defrost on the earlier (69 and back) cars took their power tapped from the main blower. For the later cars it came off of I think the green fuse through the ignition switch. You'll need the ignition on to do the check. From there, check for power at the grid where your electrician resoldered the tab. A test light will tell you.

    Make sure the ground wire is good and solid. You may need to make a new one. The screw point is just behind the sail panel trim.

    I'm a little surprised your sparky was able to get that tab resoldered. That's a fairly difficult, fiddly job. Hats off to him if he managed to do that without burning anything or leaving a gloppy mess.

    In the meantime I would be taking Chris' suggestion and looking into one of those replacement grids. From what I saw they weren't horrifically expensive.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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