CX wheel alignment
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Stamford, UK
    Posts
    331

    Default CX wheel alignment

    Hi,

    I've just replaced both track rods and am about to get the tracking done. Getting rid of the play is a great improvement already but its pulling to the left a bit now. So once the tracking is done I'll have to adjust that inaccessible self centring eccentric thing. I suspect they won't know what the correct setting is so Ive just looked at Haynes and its says 1-4mm toe in. I've got the blinking expensive TRX tyres on it, so really dont want tyre wear. Would anyone know if it's best to tell them to set it to 1,2,3 or 4mm toe in? If they set it to 2.5mm is that good enough? Car is a 1987 T2.

    Advertisement


    Cheers

    Marc


    Via the aussiefrogs App
    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,067

    Default

    I like to set mine at 2mm overall toe in. That is 1mm per wheel.
    Cheers Gerry

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Rob T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    133

    Default

    CX's point better with a little bit of toe in. It is difficult to reach the cam adjuster on RH drive cars, so I adjust the tracking by winding the tie rods in or out an equal amount both sides. It is simple to roll the steering rack boot back, loosen the lock nut and rotate the inner joint by 1/4 turn at a time. Takes a bit of trial and error to get it perfect, but I have always had good results.

    My car is running Alfa mags with 205/55 ZR 16 tyres. I'm seeing very little inner edge tyre wear. I get ~ 60,000 km out of a set Pilot Preceda's. Fronts do wear a lot faster than the back, but I rotate them to even up wear. I always buy 4 new tyres at the same time. Difference in grip levels between old and new is significant, and I reckon tyres are definitely going 'off' by the time they are 3 years old...
    Robert Thorne
    Brisbane
    Citroenless - for now...

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Stamford, UK
    Posts
    331

    Default

    Thanks. I got it set to 1mm toe in each side, but still have a slight pull to the left. If I manage to get a spanner on the flange coupling what's the procedure for setting the steering dead straight? Loosen two bolts and turn the eccentric?

    I'm familiar with adjusting it on the SM, turn in opposite direction to the way the car is pulling, but does the same apply re turning the eccentric on the CX?




    Via the aussiefrogs App
    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,067

    Default

    Yes that is correct!
    Cheers Gerry

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Stamford, UK
    Posts
    331

    Default

    Managed to get my CX pointing dead straight, took 4 attempts, must have turned the eccentric bolt about half a turn in the end. Blinking awkward access, but just about doable with the right hand wheel left in place and on high suspension provided you've got long arms, patience and good eyes. A bit easier with the wheel off but not much.

    If they ever invent a time machine it would be a good idea to go back to the early 70's and tell Citroen to forever keep the engine longitudinal with the steering rack above the gearbox so that the straight ahead adjuster for the Diravi can be accessed easily!

    Marc
    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,774

    Default

    Removing the mudflaps and pulling the centre out of the air intake housing and the drain tube with it will help. Place a support under the car in case it drops suddenly while you are leaning under. Something like a large wooden block almost tall enough to touch the underside works well and can save your life.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,927

    Icon11 My recollections

    From what I remember, the eccentric just goes around and around so which way you turn it to get the desired effect depends if its on the top side of the bottom side of its travel. So you have to get the tie rods close then hope the eccentric will allow you some fine adjustment. But sometimes it will only make it worse in which case you have to adjust the tie rods so its drifts the other way which will then be correctable by the eccentric. Perhaps one should centralise the eccentric before getting the wheel alignment people to do their bit.

    I have had success adjusting the eccentric by cruising up and down my street testing the drift then pulling over to the wrong side of the road, going full lock to left, propping the steering wheel with a length of timber and getting the 13mm ring in onto the eccentric for a tweak.

    Cheers,

    Ken W
    Last edited by Ken W; 17th February 2014 at 03:01 PM. Reason: fill in left out words

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,774

    Default

    If it's way out of adjustment, you need to disconnect the coupling, pin the control unit and centralise the rack before reconnecting the coupling at it's central position. With the diravi system, it's important to know there is a difference between alignment and tracking adjustments.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •