D window replaement
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Thread: D window replaement

  1. #1
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    Default D window replaement

    Hi, Any tips/instruction how to replace side window glass

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger
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    How I would now do this job, but you may find a shorter method ...

    Remove the door card and plastic sheets.

    Drop the glass and remove the two 8mm head bolts at the bottom of the glass. The front one on each rear door is found via the hole covered by a rectangular piece of plastic. The rest are obvious. These are the upper stops. Lower stop is set by a slide on the regulator and you may need to adjust later. Most screws are Posidriv, but that one is actually a Philips.

    Remove the 4 rubber bungs from the door frame to access the 11mm nuts that lock the glass guide channels in place. You might mark the position to make later adjustment easier. Slacken all 4 nuts and lower the guide channels in the slots in the door frames. Note there is an angled area at the base of each slot and this moves the guide channels to a position where the plastic guides on the glass can pass through the top of the door. Otherwise they will foul because the top of each guide is angled inwards, which is how the glass seals against the rubber. The slots appear to have been designed for the assembly procedure, so despite what one might think about much of the car, some thought was invested in this area at least.

    It's not hard to remove the regulator, but you may be able to leave it fitted, remove the bottom stop, wind it right down and and just free the glass from it. I'd take it out, so ... release the two clips by straightening them and sliding out. There is also a spring washer. There is a hoop retaining the glass to the regulator and you need to release it to remove the glass. Do not lever against the door frame as it's pointless and just causes damage. You need to spread the hoop and the steering wheel adjustment tool (which I expect you won't have) does a good job here (Thanks be to Greenblood!). However, you can probably use a section of rectangular timber/steel/plastic (27x48mm to approximate the steering tool's dimensions) and turn it 90 degrees to spread the hoop. Free and remove the regulator.

    Tie a rope to the base of the glass at the holder and slide it down in the track to the bottom of the door. This allows you to remove the draught excluder, external rubber strip and their clips at the top of the door. If you don't remove these, the metal carrier at the bottom of the glass can't pass through the top of the door. They could be fragile if they are original parts. Perhaps, obtain new parts? Turn the clips 90 degrees to make them easier to remove, but they may be fragile, so having some spares would be a good idea.

    Use the rope and pull the glass up and slide it up and out of the door. Make sure the two steel guide channels are at their lowest position and the glass should come out of the top of the door easily.

    Refit is the reverse order. Slip the glass in, lower it to the bottom with a rope to pull it back up before fitting the furry draught excluder, then the clips for the outer rubber strip. The hoop on the regulator is the only challenge. Check the felt circles are still there and do not catch on the metal strip on the base of the glass. You want them sitting flat against the glass.

    The critical final step is to adjust the stops. Setting the upper stops is done by moving the guide channels in their slots to a point where the glass cannot foul on the body when the door is closed. Put the glass down an inch, slip the guide channels down low so the studs are still in the adjustment portion of the upper slots. Tighten the upper nuts so that you can wind the glass up and have it push in at the top of it's travel as it's designed to do to seal against the rubber. The lower studs on the guide channels can move about and you want to adjust them so the glass applies pressure on the rubber. Trial close the door with care and alter the adjustment until the glass will not foul on the body when it it wound up hard. Be careful of the bolts holding the roof on as they are lower than the roof frame. If you change the door hinge adjustment you need to then check/adjust the door glass adjustment.

    You can also move the guide channels fore and aft if need be, by moving the washers about. If the glass can slop back and forward in the door, then you need to add a washer to one of the guides to tighten up the gap a little. It is possible to move each of the washers without removing the glass, but you will want a magnetic pickup! Like all things doors on a DS, there are shims of different thicknesses and the washers are like this. You probably want to fit at least the very thin shim washer on all of the studs for the guide channels as it gives them something to slide about on in the slot without much affecting the actual adjustment.

    The lower stop is dead easy and via the small wedge on the regulator.

    p.s. If you remove the glass guide channels, not that the front guides are longer than the rear guides and the top of the track turns inwards. The same channel fits the front of the left rear door as the rear of the right rear door. Same for the other channel in each rear door. This is not the case with the front doors as each of the 4 parts differs. The important point is to note the cutout part way down is there for the purpose of clearing the lock at the back of the front door. If you fit a channel without the cutout adjacent to the front door locks, it will foul.

    For Pallas with the padded door tops and the stainless door card retainer strips, note the position of the short screws when you remove the strips. One needs be placed adjacent to the lock or it will foul it and another may be needed in the middle if the door opener rod will foul on it.
    Last edited by David S; 5th January 2014 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Additions

  3. #3
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    David, your repair note here needs to be stickied into the "Froggy Chat- Common Faults and Fixes" subthread.
    Pommiefrog likes this.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    A hammer handle makes it easy to get the glass out of the hoop. Use the hammer head as a handle and give a twist while the handle is in the hoop.

    Via the aussiefrogs App
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  5. #5
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Excellent write up David

    I also have a few pics in my resto thread which may help. This is completely stripping all hardware but shows the steps to remove the glass.

    GreenBlood’s D(very)Special Rejuvenation 2009>

    Cheers
    Chris
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    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Thanks a lot David. I got all four glasses out today and everything else striped from the doors ready for painting.
    BTW I found 4" paint stripper useful to slide under spring bracket and just slide the glass up.
    cheers

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    Thanks a lot Chris.

  8. #8
    UFO
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    I have scans of templates XM Driver made for the door hole plastics when UFO was rebuilt a few years ago. Too big to upload to AF I think, but send me a PM with your email addy and I can send the file.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by adjole View Post
    Thanks a lot David. I got all four glasses out today and everything else striped from the doors ready for painting.
    BTW I found 4" paint stripper useful to slide under spring bracket and just slide the glass up.
    cheers
    Good work. Yes, the paint stripper would work. However, you can tear off the felt disc on the side of the glass you can't get at with the scraper. Refitting may be more of a trial though.

    It's worth buying new furry strips and external rubbers. Possibly also the plastic guides if they are worn and loose in the guide channels. All these parts are available now as repro. For the outside door glass weather strips, buy the proper repro parts as per original. Compared to the generic strips you can buy to do the job, the original style parts have an extra rib to locate the rubber in the clip and another rib to keep the glass off the retainer clips. You don't want the glass scratching on the retainer clips. Paint the retainer clips black as you can see them through the glass, though not as easily on a Pallas model.

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