DS bonnet insulation
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Thread: DS bonnet insulation

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! IE23's Avatar
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    Default DS bonnet insulation

    How to remove the old foam insulation. With a high presure water washer of course. The old foam came off like butter with a hot knife. The glue however is mostly stubborn.

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    Adrian

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    Quote Originally Posted by IE23 View Post
    How to remove the old foam insulation. With a high presure water washer of course. The old foam came off like butter with a hot knife. The glue however is mostly stubborn.
    Had the same issue with the GS. In scheme of things the insulation didn't really make any difference to sound deadening anyway. It just looked ugly.

    It took me about 3hrs to remove the glue using a combination of turps and during periods of frustration, thinners. In scheme of things, turps hangs around for bit longer (thinners dries quickly).

    Soak the bonnet (I put mine on saw stools) in turps, go play some smooth grooves on YouTube and go back and scrap away with something not too sharp - plastic scraper or in my case a slim bit of hardwood pointed at the end. During 7 months of GS restoration that bit of wood became like Wilson in Castaway only I called it Mr Woody, my friend.
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    Fellow Frogger! IE23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparkey View Post
    Mr Woody, my friend.
    lol ...


    Adrian

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    Fellow Frogger! IE23's Avatar
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    But seriously do I need to remove all the old glue? Could I just put new glue over the top with new insulation?
    Isn't the insulation required to protect the bonnet paint from heat?


    Adrian

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  5. #5
    mnm
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    Hi Adrian

    I replaced mine a while back. I scraped off any loose glue and left the rest, glued the new insulation over the top. Hasn't budged in 2 yrs.





    Matthew

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    Member Pommiefrog's Avatar
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    A job that I have to do, car had stood for a long while and the original material just disintegrated... Like you I will scrap as much off as possible and just glue on top of any old glue that won't budge. What glue did you use?
    Regards,

    George
    Leicestershire, England
    1971 DS21 EFI, Pallas, BVH, Blog:http://www.mypallas.net

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    Fellow Frogger! rmac's Avatar
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    It is pretty agricultural, but effective. I used a 'flap wheel' sanding attachment in an electric drill. Cleans of the old adhesive but leaves the paint relatively unscathed. Covering the engine compartment with a tarp helps keep the mess a little better contained.
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    mnm
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    I used KwikGrip water based glue ... the padding was quite absorbent so it didn't go far, but it certainly worked.



    Beauty of this one is it cleans up in water and doesn't go stringy like the regular glue.

    Matthew

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    I remember doing this years ago and found that soaking several sheets of newspaper in turps, pushing them into a soggy blanket onto the upside down bonnet, leaving for half a day worked beautifully. When I went back to it nearly all the glue came away with the almost dried newspaper 'blanket'. I repeated this exercise but only left it for an hour or so this time and just about cleared the glue.
    I'm not totally convicted the glue was Citroen original but certainly the final result exposed original paintwork.

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    Ever feel like you've been short sheeted? ... Partially completed! The lining was pre cut to measure and supplied by Franzose.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DS bonnet insulation-image.jpg  


    Adrian

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    DS23 IE Pallas 5sp 1974
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  11. #11
    Member Pommiefrog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IE23 View Post
    Ever feel like you've been short sheeted? ... Partially completed! The lining was pre cut to measure and supplied by Franzose.
    I see what you mean..... Looking at mnm's photos to appears that other sources are more generous. Thanks for pointing this out, I will be measuring the complete area and verifying the height prior to ordering.. If I can't find dt he correct dimensions then I may as well get a roll, make a pattern and cut out the correct measurements myself. Only difference is my edges won't have the vinyl edging that the reproduction ones have, or maybe it means I can get the other half more involved in my project
    Last edited by Pommiefrog; 4th January 2014 at 07:27 PM.
    Regards,

    George
    Leicestershire, England
    1971 DS21 EFI, Pallas, BVH, Blog:http://www.mypallas.net

  12. #12
    UFO
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    Perhaps the previous insulation that was on it was too generous? In reality it should only need to protect the area from the radiator to the rear edge. If there is noticeable heat forward of the radiator you've got bigger things to worry about!
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    Craig K
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    Hey thanks for the pressure washer idea, never thought of that! My Safari caught fire on the way back from Paris after the fiftieth celebration in 2005 and I've never managed to clean up the underside of the bonnet properly. It had the replacement blanket stuff fitted a while before that, but the stuff burns well so I won't be fitting that again. Will get the pressure washer out tmrw, if it ever stops raining here.

    Cheers

    Marc


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    Cheers, Marc.

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    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marc61 View Post
    Hey thanks for the pressure washer idea, never thought of that! My Safari caught fire on the way back from Paris after the fiftieth celebration in 2005 and I've never managed to clean up the underside of the bonnet properly. It had the replacement blanket stuff fitted a while before that, but the stuff burns well so I won't be fitting that again. Will get the pressure washer out tmrw, if it ever stops raining here.

    Cheers

    Marc


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    The question I have is, did you ever figure out why your car caught fire? Usually on a D it's the fuel fitting on the carb works its way out and so the fuel pump merrily sprays fuel all over a hot motor.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    It's catching fire was entirely my fault, but I didn't realise at the time. Think I can safely say the chances of it happening to another D are nil.

    Briefly it has a 23EFi engine that I converted to run on twin Weber IDFs with an air box, and one of the bolts holding the air box to the carbs undid itself and managed to leap down past a throttle butterfly, down the inlet pipe and then jam itself between the inlet valve and the valve seat. I was on the motorway, it developed a misfire, I kept going until I could get off up a slip road but smoke started pouring out as I slowed down, pulled over lifted bonnet and the smoke gave way to fire. Managed to put it out by quickly spraying a few mouthfuls of water across, concentrated on the engine and burning rubber fuel pipe whilst the bonnet insulation kept burning but eventually got it out. It was touch and go for a minute or two, very close to having to walk away and let it burn.

    It needed one new inlet valve, some rubber fuel pipe and HT leads. The underside of the bonnet got melted, blackened and still looks a mess despite my attempts to clean it up. Needless to say since then I make sure the air box bolts are done up damn tight!




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    Cheers, Marc.

    1987 CX GTi T2 Maikonics
    1972 SM 2.7 carb
    1972 DS21 EFI

  16. #16
    Now go make me a sandwich Hotrodelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marc61 View Post
    It's catching fire was entirely my fault, but I didn't realise at the time. Think I can safely say the chances of it happening to another D are nil.

    Briefly it has a 23EFi engine that I converted to run on twin Weber IDFs with an air box, and one of the bolts holding the air box to the carbs undid itself and managed to leap down past a throttle butterfly, down the inlet pipe and then jam itself between the inlet valve and the valve seat. I was on the motorway, it developed a misfire, I kept going until I could get off up a slip road but smoke started pouring out as I slowed down, pulled over lifted bonnet and the smoke gave way to fire. Managed to put it out by quickly spraying a few mouthfuls of water across, concentrated on the engine and burning rubber fuel pipe whilst the bonnet insulation kept burning but eventually got it out. It was touch and go for a minute or two, very close to having to walk away and let it burn.

    It needed one new inlet valve, some rubber fuel pipe and HT leads. The underside of the bonnet got melted, blackened and still looks a mess despite my attempts to clean it up. Needless to say since then I make sure the air box bolts are done up damn tight!




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    You, my fine sir are fortunate as all hell. I've had to repair fire damaged cars, and it is almost never that easy. The last really bad one involved a convertible and 2 weeks of stripping and cleaning every last interior surface with acetone. Not to mention all the repairs and replacements.
    The measure of your character isn't what you do when people are watching- it's what you do when they aren't watching.

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    Yes very true, very lucky. It only burnt with flames for about a minute but it was within seconds of becoming a major disaster. Had it been a fuel injection car I can well imagine that I would have had no chance at all.

    The all important technique is to take a big mouthful of water blow out your cheeks out and spray it out across the area where the flames are, then repeat. Basically trying to hit everything with thousands of droplets, rather than pouring water on as that achieves very little.


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    Cheers, Marc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by marc61 View Post
    Yes very true, very lucky. It only burnt with flames for about a minute but it was within seconds of becoming a major disaster. Had it been a fuel injection car I can well imagine that I would have had no chance at all.

    The all important technique is to take a big mouthful of water blow out your cheeks out and spray it out across the area where the flames are, then repeat. Basically trying to hit everything with thousands of droplets, rather than pouring water on as that achieves very little.


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    That's one very impressive party trick. I'd like to have seen that!

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts bluey504's Avatar
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    I just make sure I have a charged fire extinguisher mounted securely. A 1 kg Dry Chemical with a 1A:20BE rating will snuff out many a fire quickly, this is the CAMS compliant type and for $25 with a metal mounting bracket from Autobarn go and get one! Remember to clean up the powder completely afterwards as the powder does corrode electrical terminals. Or an AFFF type will do wonders for all types of fires except electrical....the 'A' is for Aqueous.

    In Australia the use of spitting water upon a fire has been superseded by shaking a stubbie/can of beer and spraying the contents. Worked several years ago on a mining charter flight in WA!

    Brendan.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! marc61's Avatar
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    Yes fire extinguisher is the solution - trusting in a gallon of water and your ability to spurt water over it is not the way to go. I can remember being amazed that pouring water directly over it made things worse if anything.


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    Cheers, Marc.

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    1972 DS21 EFI

  21. #21
    Member Pommiefrog's Avatar
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    I bought a Co2 extinguisher, it leaves no residue, but you need to make sure the fire is properly out as it could reignite.
    Regards,

    George
    Leicestershire, England
    1971 DS21 EFI, Pallas, BVH, Blog:http://www.mypallas.net

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