2CV arm bearings
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010

    Default 2CV arm bearings

    Anyone ever replaced arm bearings on a 2CV ? If so what symptoms did the car have to make you think of replacing them.


  2. #2
    JBN is offline
    1000+ Posts JBN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010


    I have replaced suspension arm bearings on a 2CV. When I built Daffy Duck from the ground up, I had all the suspension sandblasted and replaced some of the arm bearings. All the bearings were cleaned of grease and inspected for rust, pitting or any other signs of wear or damage. They were then greased and reassembled and the arm movement was checked for movement, free play, binding, etc.

    From memory I replaced two bearings from two different arms. Remember there are two bearings on each arm, an inner and an outer. I know the front drivers side outer was replaced because as soon as it was tightened, the arm kept binding. It had looked OK, but the proof is in the pudding.

    If you have recently aquired the car or if it has been somewhat neglected, there is a lot to be said for cleaning and repacking the grease in the arm bearings. They are expensive, often overlooked, and bearings love grease. If the car needs to have its chassis replaced or removed, or the body removed from the chassis, this is an ideal time to inspect the suspension components.

    A 2CV is a classic and one would have every expectation that properly looked after, they will appreciate. The majority came from the UK (RHD). How long they spent collecting rust in the UK determines how long before the chassis needs replacing or re-skinning. When the steering gets heavy, look at the hole in the floor where the steering column goes through. If the footboard is resting on the top of the steering column, it has rusted away and needs replacing. This is a good time to check the suspension arms.


  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2003


    Hi Jackal,

    I have replaced the arm bearings on my 2cv during a complete rebuild.

    With the bearings out and clean it is easy to assess any signs of pitting and/or corrosion. As the bearings are conical, I placed them on the bench and rotated them forward and back to feel for any lumps, as the main wear is within a small area it is easy to feel, usually on the top of the cone. From memory I replaced half of them.

    To test them on the car, jack up one side and remove the shock absorber and tie rod from the arm. Check for any play in the bearing by moving the arm in and out and tighten the nut to take up any slack. Then lift the arm up and down within it's regular plane of movement to feel for any pitting.

    It is not overly difficult to remove the arm to clean, inspect & repack with grease. One side of the bearings stay in the arm and the others stay on the tube. Definitely replace the seals, especially if they're the old fibrous type. The seals and bearings can be bought from any good bearing supply store, usually on order, but I still found it cheaper to use 2cviking.

    A solid drift and heavy mallet will persuade the bearings off if required.

    I then went to the extent of fitting grease nipples on either side, but the old stuff will just squeeze it's way into the middle of the tube, no drama really.



    Sent via the future...

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Inspector Clouseau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    North Coast NSW


    'I then went to the extent of fitting grease nipples on either side, but the old stuff will just squeeze it's way into the middle of the tube, no drama really.'

    You'll notice the extra weight of the grease though

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