bleeding brakes- CX
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Thread: bleeding brakes- CX

  1. #1
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    Default bleeding brakes- CX

    as the title suggests, I am struggling a bit.

    whats the correct process?, and where is the preassure release valve for the brake circuit.
    What size socket are the bleed nipples?

    Cheers?

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
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    May be better to go to a brake specialist.

    It is your life or someone else's life at the end of a spanner

  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Start at the back, there is a proper process to follow where you open the regulator bleed screw and slowly allow the pressure to come up.... I'm lazy though, this is what I do,

    a) Put the car on high for the rear brakes (remove the wheel if needed). Get a length of clear hose (windscreen washer hose often fits) and place the end in a jar. Have someone press on the brake pedal (It only a valve, so I usually just wedge it down with a length of wood against the seat).
    b) open the bleed valve: Because the car is on high there will be a lot of pressure there, bleed until you get clear fresh green fluid through with no bubbles.
    c) repeat at each wheel.

    You don't need to "pump" the brake pedal at all. Remember your just opening a valve that allows high pressure fluid into the braking system.

    If you don't put the car on high for the rear, you may get no fluid back there. An un-laden CX rear end will have barely any pressure in the rear suspension, so barely any pressure to the rear brakes.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: DON"T GO TO A BRAKE SPECIALIST, they'll have no bloody idea how to bleed it. Particularly the rear!!
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Start at the back, there is a proper process to follow where you open the regulator bleed screw and slowly allow the pressure to come up.... I'm lazy though, this is what I do,

    a) Put the car on high for the rear brakes (remove the wheel if needed). Get a length of clear hose (windscreen washer hose often fits) and place the end in a jar. Have someone press on the brake pedal (It only a valve, so I usually just wedge it down with a length of wood against the seat).
    b) open the bleed valve: Because the car is on high there will be a lot of pressure there, bleed until you get clear fresh green fluid through with no bubbles.
    c) repeat at each wheel.

    You don't need to "pump" the brake pedal at all. Remember your just opening a valve that allows high pressure fluid into the braking system.

    If you don't put the car on high for the rear, you may get no fluid back there. An un-laden CX rear end will have barely any pressure in the rear suspension, so barely any pressure to the rear brakes.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: DON"T GO TO A BRAKE SPECIALIST, they'll have no bloody idea how to bleed it. Particularly the rear!!
    Spot on advice Shane. A hydraulic Citroen is one of the easiest cars in the world to bleed the brakes on. It might be different, but it's better.
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  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Rob T's Avatar
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    I also use the method described by Shane.

    Car on high, so that the rear brakes get pressure. I have a bit of broom stick cut to length that I jamb between the seat and brake pedal. Bleed, starting at the rear. The first 100 or so ml of oil will be pretty dirty, so discard it. I use a long clear plastic hose of about 3 mm and feed the oil back to the reservoir. Keep bleeding until there are NO air bubbles. You will likely get some oil dribbling out from around the thread of the bleed nipple. Be prepared, and use paper towel to soak it up. Don't get any oil on the brake disc or pads...

    I change the hydraulic oil about every two years - usually coincides with removing and pressure check of the spheres and any other hydraulic maintenance that might be required. I always bleed the brakes just to flush the old dirty oil out. All of the hydraulic systems on a CX effectively recirculate the oil - except for the brake system, which is blind.

    Hydraulic Citroens are very sensitive to air in the brake system, which shows up as a slight delay when applying the brakes, so make sure there are no bubbles. It can take lots of bleeding to get all of the air out if the brake system has been dismantled.

    And above all, do not take a hydraulic Citroen to anyone but a specialist. They are completely different and totally incompatible with 'conventional' braking systems. There is no chance that the 'technicians' at your local brake shop will even know that it is different. Hydraulic oil and conventional brake fluids are totally incompatible.
    Robert Thorne
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  6. #6
    JBN
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    Yep, I do the same Robert. After getting dirty changing the LHM, it gives me joy to see the nearly black gunky LHM exiting from the brakes into a bottle, to be replaced by beautiful green LHM.

    I agree that the centralised Citroen hydraulics up to and including the Xantia are quite easy to work on WHEN you have the knowledge. I am hoping that the Xantia will last me as long as possible as I have become infatuated with the hydraulic brake pedal V's accelerator pedal setup in CXs to Xantias.

    You can slip your foot from accelerator to brake pedal quicker than the guy in front can read two words of text.

    John

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    perfect.

    it seemed as easy as that to me, but other references mentioned a far more drawn out process.

    that can be done in 10min.

    cheers

  8. #8
    UFO
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    Very important too, whenever bleeding brakes on Citroen that relies on the hydraulics system for brake pressure...

    DO NOT PUT ANY PART OF YOURSELF (or anyone else) UNDER THE CAR please.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    I would add one thing. You will have the car on stands, probably one end at a time. The back is where you need to worry about the suspension as well because the rear brake pressure comes from the pressure in the rear suspension. With the swing arm hanging down and the hight lever in full high you probably won't get any pressure in the brakes because the system thinks the rear is already at full height so no need to add pressure.

    You will have to jack up the swing arm a little. Note that when the engine is started the car will rise up on the jack so make sure you have it placed in a good position near the wheel bearing and don't jack up too far.

    I second UFOs warning to not put any part of yourself under the car during this procedure.
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