GS for sale in Brisbane
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  1. #1
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    Default GS for sale in Brisbane

    Hi All

    As a new entrant to the world of Citroen (previously Renault) I was seeking advice please.

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    I'm looking at the GS Club (blue) for sale in Brisbane on Carsales. Can anyone shed light on its quality or otherwise and is there a list/s of things to look for when assessing a potential purchase?

    I would really rather a CX but they seem to be thin on the ground in Queensland, or maybe my Citroen antennae is not fully developed....

    Anyway, any information would be gratefully received.

    Scott

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    1000+ Posts FIVEDOOR's Avatar
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    You may wish to do a search here with the contact name in the add
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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Hello Scott, you may find a GS far superior to the CX as introduction to hydraulic cars. Simpler and cheaper to fix, still a good amount of pre-PSA design flair. The car in question is offered by a forum member of the same name.

    That said, no doubt you will be offered a few CXs by public posts and PM now! Proceed with caution; all the better if you can view a car under professional restoration and arm yourself with catalogues from vendors like CX-Basis. Very few now "ŗ vendre" will not have a need for significant repair sooner than later (whether or not the seller acknowledges this, or is indeed cognisant of it). Much can be done by the skilled at home, but the need to "excavate" for many repair operations (when compared to modern automotive design) means some jobs can take longer than you may expect or have patience for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scott h View Post

    I would really rather a CX but they seem to be thin on the ground

    Scott
    none of which will be in as good a nick as that GS on offer

    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    no doubt you will be offered a few CXs by public posts and PM now.
    See above

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    Hi Scott,

    As others are indicating, it is possibly a bit hard to get too much comment on Aussiefrogs because the current owner is a long standing and highly respected (with good reason) member on these forums. However I can say I know a person who bought another GS off the same person this year, and is delighted with the outcome, and I would trust the owner to present the car honestly. The car looks a treat and is very low mileage for the age, although it is the early 1,000 cc motor which was replaced within a year or so by the larger 1200cc one. There are not too many of the 1,000 cc cars left in circulation, you could check the GS register thread on this forum for details of others. Most that come up for sale are 1200s, although that is probably not an issue as the motors are pretty bulletproof and this one is such low mileage. One of the best Citroen mechanic shops in the country happens to be DS Motors so you could take it or any other potential purchase there for an opinion. They probably know most cars in active local circulation anyway.

    As far as CX's go, there are quite a lot that come up for sale each year, so if you have some patience and perhaps some ability to travel a bit then a good one will turn up. They are a much more complicated beast than the simpler GS with more electronics, and some well known and common issues, particularly with interior trim. The GS ranks are thinning faster and apart from this clutch of cars in Brisbane there have only been a couple worth chasing coming up in public advertising this year, and I would say none as nice as this one. As in all matters though, it is your money so you must judge it for yourself. Oddly enough Queensland seems to have much more than its fair share of GS's, whereas NSW in particular and VIC seem to have a lot of the CXs.

    Regards, leconte
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    GSs are under-rated. They have great suspension (hydropneumatic, of course), great handling, centre-point steering (a feature shared with just the DS and SM, not even the CX). They have the zippiness of a small car with the touring ability of a large car. The only real negative is they are slow to warm up and they run roughly until warm.

    That car on carsales is not the only light blue 1972 GS 1015 Donat has owned. I bought his previous one when he upgraded to that one. Mine is way shabbier than that one. Yet I agreed to buy it sight unseen, flew to Brisbane, and drove it home to Warrnambool. The only problem on the way was a tyre going out of round. Donat escorted me out of town in the one he is now selling. You might be able to find the AF post where I explained that I wanted it because it had such cute interior door handles.

    Roger

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    Two years ago I bought my CX 'Familiale' from Donat, also sight unseen. It was in good enough condition to drive back to Western Australia after attending Cit-in and a detour to Lightning Ridge. As stated above a respected and reliable member of aussiefrogs. All you need to do is ask the right questions.
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    I've been bedridden for the past week or so, and I thank you guys for your warm words.

    To answer Scott's question, I'd say these are the following things I would check when buying a GS:

    * Spheres - do they need replacing/regassing? Give the bumpers a good shake. And the accumulator - is it ticking like a time bomb?
    * Hydraulic hoses - does the regulator return hose look like it's been on the car since new? Check all return hoses.
    * Rear height corrector - have rats eaten some away? Open the hatch in the boot & check.
    * Check all boots for leaks/splits
    * Is it leaking oil from the rocker covers? Does the motor look sweaty? Being air cooled, it can - but not always.
    * Does it sit straight on the road? Lower arm bushes and such.
    * What's the starter motor & other electrical doodads like? Does it start first time?
    * Do you need a choke to start it all year 'round?
    * Has the oil been changed every 5000km?
    * Does the clock work? (very important)
    * Has anyone bothered to adjust the handbrake (properly)?
    * Gearbox synchros - is there a crunch into 2nd or 3rd?
    * What's the clutch like? Engine out job if shagged.

    I'm sure there are more, but that's the gist of it. Parts are readily available and about half the price you'd pay for a CX, DS, SM etc.

    Hope this is helpful.
    1972 SM
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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    I forgot rust. They rust like a bastard in just about any spot where there's metal.
    1972 SM
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    other things one might want to inspect

    - smokey exhaust
    - smokey engine bay (usually oil drips on hot exhaust)
    - lhm colour
    - front discs and pads (not wet)
    - rear discs and pads (not squealing)
    - rust under the battery
    plus the usual rwc/safety cert stuff

    Bring a torch to see things more clearly but never get under a hydraulic vehicle unless properly supported by stands under the jacking points on level ground, handbrake on and/or wheels chocked etc

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    Fellow Frogger! lamoor's Avatar
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    Default GS for sale Brisbane

    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post
    I forgot rust. They rust like a bastard in just about any spot where there's metal.
    c'mon guys dont be so negative, the GS is a fantastic car dollar for dollar consider the technology, style etc etc it has everything going for it.
    i spent at least 15 months looking for one, found it and now spent BUCKETS to get it back to its former glory
    (hope) and it will be worth only a fraction of what i spent. BUT the journey and the experience will all be worth it.

    i say if you really want something and your able to get it then do it. !

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    1000+ Posts Bruce H's Avatar
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    Hi Scott
    Despite my admiration for the GS, I'll play devil's advocate.
    Why do you initially prefer a CX?
    For what type of motoring are you proposing to mainly use the car?
    Don't buy a GS if it's not going to suit what you really need a car for, or expect a car to provide.

    I've had a few of both CX's and GS's over the years, but am not a mechanic so have moved out of the more complex CX. I don't need the space a CX offers, nor does my usual driving now need the effortless highway legs they give.
    I know people who seem to just find a GS too small for their liking, and not powerful in the manner to which they are attuned. If you're used to driving a modern 1.5 litre or more fuel injected anything then the GS will seem slow, and if you cross the Range on a very regular basis you'll possibly find trying to wind up the GS but keep to the present speed limits on the way up excessively tiresome. If you do long highway miles across the Downs and further west you might also find the high revs and consequent noise tiresome. After a year and a half of living out west I garaged the GS and bought a CX, as the CX ate the hundreds of highway kilometres with ease, whereas after 4 or more hours at over 4000rpm you really wish the GS had a fifth gear. In winter in Toowoomba you will probably curse the way the GS runs until it's warm, and probably curse what is termed the heater. Balancing the argument, you'll probably curse the heat inside anything other than a really well sorted/ re-insulated CX in Summer. In my experience a GS gets hot in Summer, a CX gets even hotter. (You can always put more clothes on to counter cold, there is a limit to taking clothes off to counter heat.)

    As everyone here says, the GS has a lot to offer, particularly if you are happy to actively DRIVE your car and not just auto-pilot it.
    If your reasons for wanting a CX are not size nor power related, then I'd definitely suggest you look at the GS as an alternative entry point to the marque. There is far less to go wrong on a GS than a CX. But if you really think you want a CX, again don't buy a GS. They are very different cars, not only from anything else but also from each other. If you must go with a CX, consider the advice often given to first time D buyers - buying a model that has less features means there is less to go wrong. At the same time, I also have to say that within the CX range the different specifications provide very different drives. If at all possible, try to get to drive a few options before purchasing.
    Happy hunting, and hopefully something that suits you will come along (even when I bought my first Citroen 30 years ago, when they were far more common, it took me over 6 months of looking to find the GS I purchased). Talk to all the specialist repairers and you'll get to hear what CX's or GS's may be available but not actively advertised.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    GSs..... have the zippiness of a small car with the touring ability of a large car.
    When in good tune they can be zippy. Not quick or chuckable like an R12 but when that air cooled flat four winds out, boy oh boy it feels like nothing else.

    Touring ability is relaxed, but they sorely lack a 5th gear on modern highways. Can be a tad thirsty.

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    I am happy to be part of a community where the seller of a car describes publicly where to look for problems.

    Roger
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    THe pale blue GS ... I dunno why but that car really appeals to me, it looks "right" in the piccies. I'm pleased it's all the way up in Brisbane, 'cos if it's as good as it looks in the piccies, I'd call it a bargain.

    Forget the GS versus CX caper ... There completely different cars, the GS is small, and agile, infact the only car I've managed to do "4 wheel drifts" in .... I was so surprised I went back around the same corner about a dozen times in a row before the road dried out

    A GS is the best riding small car I've ever driven ... full stop ... ever. Nothing small and light comes close to the way a GS rides. A Renault 12 feels crashy and really hard at the back in particular compared to a GS.

    As for running costs, the GS is a shit of a thing when cold. Lots of short trips will equal the fuel usage of a CX as you'll be travelling choke out almost all the time, the engines leaks and do wear (compared to the old old lump in the CX). The gearboxes also wear a lot (also compared to a CX)..... Over time I imagine running costs would be similar.

    The hardest part with GS's is just the same as CX's ......... That is finding one in good enough condition to be worth buying. If I was in the market for a GS I'd fly upto brisbane and have a look at Donats car. Driving it back to Victoria would be a great way of getting to know the car

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    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    There is a CX available and looking by the photos quite a good one and might have the provenance of a good owner.
    1985 Citroen CX2500 GTi

    The CX and GS are different machines, were aimed at different areas of the market, but a product of the same designer, Robert Opron. Both were Car of the Year when released.

    In my view the GS is possibly the best thing Citroen ever did. My Dad bought one new in 1976 and it was my introduction to the marque. I then picked up a 1015 which I got going again in the 1990s. I had a CX by this stage and I remember driving it for the first time how good it rode and steered and how the engine revs climbed. Marvelous. In single bump they probably ride better than a CX but when the road gets a bit rougher the CX's wheelbase helps to even things out. Amazing for a small car. How small though, my 192cm frame can sit behind me driving a GS and they have a bigger boot than a CX.

    The real difference that might tip the balance is keeping cool in summer. The CX has aircon that can be made to work quite well with a bit of attention. The GS was offered with air but I have only ever seen one. It is possible to fit but more difficult. I was forced to sell mine because my wife thought I was going to expire early driving it in Sydney traffic in summer.

    You will enjoy either, they both show up what Citroen used to do and what superior machines they are.
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    Can someone please buy the Brisbane GS before I end up single and with 2 froggie classics in the garage!

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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg C View Post
    There is a CX available and looking by the photos quite a good one and might have the provenance of a good owner.
    1985 Citroen CX2500 GTi.
    It was a very good CX to me. I just didn't like how it was too thirsty for my short drives to and from work.
    1972 SM
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    There are some very good comments in this thread that I agree with.
    i would like to own both a CX and a GS because they are so very different cars. But for me you get a lot more car in a CX and the engine type capacity is important. A fuel injected CX has a lot more torque for cruising. Today I cruised comfortably and confidently at 100kph on the freeway through a large down pour. I have made my choice that suits me best.


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    Hi All

    I am pleased to hear warm words about a vendor on a forum. Previous forays into the Porsche forum were, um interesting.

    My reason for asking about the car in this forum was not to verify the 'soundness' of the vendor, although to hear he is much esteemed (although now unwell) is plus.

    I have had many cars over the years, and am now in what has become a long term relationship/sorry/ restoration with my R8.

    All the mechanicals have been done but the body is not good , and has proved expensive to repair. So I needed a 'help' across the line by buying a good solid little French thing to get me over the hump..

    Hence the GS.

    I very much appreciate the politeness of all concerned regarding my post. Citroen might become my new home. I have always lusted after a CX then my friend Andrew Lofthouse bought a CX and I experienced its sadly poor A/C. I didn't care and needed one badly.

    I don't really care about fuel consumption (I have a v8 Discovery ) or speed (I have a KTM 990), but I wanted something different.

    As always, the conundrum is making my world a mess so I may end up buying both, placing a tarp between - and moving in!!!

    I'll let you know how the therapy goes.....

    Scott
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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    Lofty came to look at the CX that's on Carsales when it was in my possession but passed on it due to the fact that the a/c was not adequate given his long commutes to and from work. He later informed me that he bought a modern Holden of some sort (can't remember the model).
    1972 SM
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    Just to throw a spanner in the works, GS, CX and DS very rarely become available for sale, buy one or both before someone else comes to their senses and buys them. Both would be a great way to test if Citroen is what you want. Good luck.

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    The GS1015 & GS1220 are cars of different character. The 1220 has much more low down torque, the 1015 needs to be really revved out to deliver.Both require revs to work well, the 1015, more. The 1220 is doing around 5000 rpm at 110 Km/Hr., the 1015 around 5400 Rpm I think, but both motors are well over square and designed to rev, so you treat the figures on the tachometer as just numbers. They will safely survive 8500 Rpm. Both ride & handle much the same and despite the relatively small tyre area can be persuaded to do quite remarkable feats once you get to know them. I well remember when I had to do regular trips between Lawson & Mudgee, a badly surfaced bitumen road then with many curves, and there was only one corner that could not be negotiated at twice the advisory speed, and in total comfort. The ride was much quieter with the optional cast lower front control arms.
    As for cold start problems, I can't remember it as a problem on either my '74 or '78 1220s. On the other hand, I believe the 1015 with it's oil heated carburettor hot spot was very slow to warm up. In very cold weather, judicious use of the " radiator " muff gave effective interior heating.
    My '78 1220 wagon [4 headlights ] had air conditioning fitted , with the condenser in front of the fan & freestanding interior unit. It was marginal at best, largely I believe because of insufficient cooling of the condenser. So I would suggest that you forget about it.
    I was fond of comparing the loading space with the Fords and Holdens of the day to the amazement of their owners. Sit in the back of a wagon & see if you can touch the boot floor, then compare !
    That centre point steering geometry demonstrated itself too on the occasion of a drive in a mates 1015 in curvy, hilly country one day when a flat front tyre was revealed only by the sound and smell of disintegrating rubber.
    I believe the GS is by far the easiest hydraulic Citroen to maintain & work on, & still much under rated.

    Richard
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    Ashtray Polisher donat's Avatar
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    The 1015 has a shorter gearbox ratio, but when at 100km/h, you're sitting on 4,000rpm with the correct tyres. At 120km/h you're at 5,000rpm. The 1015 redlines a little further out than the 1220 but then by the time the late Pallas's arrived here, the redline reverted to that of the early 1015 (6800rpm).

    There's 5hp difference between the two; 55 and 60bhp according to sources. Having owned just about every single configuration aside from a 1015 Convertisseur, I've found that you don't have to work a 1015 any harder than that of a 1220. You can easily get the desired momentum in either configuration if you change gear at the 4,000rpm mark.

    My current 1015 doesn't need a choke when starting outside of the winter months. If I were to start it now, I'd be able to turn it over with the choke in and get it to idle by the time the suspension lifts which is around 30secs to a minute when it's completely flat to the driveway. Perhaps mine is the exception more than the rule in these instances.

    Not sure if any of this information is helpful...
    Last edited by donat; 5th December 2013 at 05:45 PM.
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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donat View Post
    The 1015 has a shorter gearbox ratio, but when at 100km/h, you're sitting on 4,000rpm with the correct tyres. The 1015 redlines a little further out than the 1220 but then by the time the late Pallas's arrived here, the redline reverted to that of the early 1015.

    There's 5hp difference between the two; 55 and 60bhp according to sources. Having owned just about every single configuration aside from a 1015 Convertisseur, I've found that you don't have to work a 1015 any harder than that of a 1220. You can easily get the desired momentum in either configuration if you change gear at the 4,000rpm mark.

    My current 1015 doesn't need a choke when starting outside of the winter months. If I were to start it now, I'd be able to turn it over with the choke in and get it to idle by the time the suspension lifts which is around 30secs to a minute when it's completely flat to the driveway. Perhaps mine is the exception more than the rule in these instances.

    Not sure if any of this information is helpful...
    Yours may have all the inlet heaters/cold start bit 'n' pieces still hooked up. I don't think I've seen one that hasn't been messed with at some point

    I always thought fuel injection would transform a GS

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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