LHM or Coolant on RH brake caliper / LH wheel hard to rotate
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  1. #1
    Tadpole dherrick's Avatar
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    Default LHM or Coolant on RH brake caliper / LH wheel hard to rotate

    Hi All,

    Long time reader first time poster here.

    I've got a beautiful 1970 DS21 Pallas BVM that had been laid up over winter. I'm based in Auckland, NZ. After taking the DS out today for the first time in 5 months I've got two problems:

    1 - there is some fluffy dried green gunk on the RHS front brake pads, as per the photoLHM or Coolant on RH brake caliper / LH wheel hard to rotate-imageuploadedbyaussiefrogs1385786417.389159.jpg. It could be either LHM leaking from the caliper or coolant (as it leaked over the RH caliper a while ago). I'm hoping it's not LHM (and the implication of that) but don't know how to tell.... Help?

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    2 - the front left wheel is incredibly stiff to rotate, like the front brake or handbrake is sticking, and the car has failed its inspection on this. The car brakes fine and the handbrake pulls on fine. The LH caliper is under the battery and LHM tank so it's hard to get to for a look. I'm hoping the caliper isn't in need of a rebuild. Again, how would I tell what is happening here?

    Many thanks

    David



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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    Fluffy green stuff is coolant.

    Does the LH disk get hot? It will if it's dragging.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    Fluffy green stuff is coolant.

    Does the LH disk get hot? It will if it's dragging.

    The pads can stick in the caliper housing due to corrosion (both are aluminuim) A bit of WD spray might free it up, but there is a trap- aluminium oxide is a good abrasive. I suspect that you'll need to pull the guard off, access the caliper and clean it up properly (remove pads etc.)

    It can fight back, and fight back hard, so it might be a good idea to get someone who's familiar with D brakes.

  4. #4
    Tadpole dherrick's Avatar
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    Hi Bruce,

    Thanks for this. By fighting back, what do you mean? I've changed pads on other cars before...

    Thanks

    David


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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Prepare to get your arm dirty: Reach in to the brake pads and try and wiggle them. They should wiggle.
    If they do not wiggle, remove the air intake shroud and remove the brake pads. Push the caliper pistons back. They should move freely, even with the bleeder closed. Many times, just exercising the pistons will free up a caliper on an LHM car. Put the pads back in. Step on the brakes a couple of times. Road test the car. If all is well, put the shroud back in. If it is still sticky, you will have to overhaul the brake caliper.

    That is the first and most likely thing it could be. The other would be a sticky arm on the parking brake calipers. Servicing those is quite a chore on the DS and is usually done when the car is apart for major mechanical.

  6. #6
    Tadpole dherrick's Avatar
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    Thanks for that. The shrouding etc is removed to expose the brakes, and after careful application of WD40 the wheel now turns more freely.

    However, the brake pads won't come out. They wiggle a mm or so, but simply refuse to be pulled out. The locking pin has been removed...

    Had anyone got any tips for removing stubborn brake pads? They are fairly new so have plenty of meat on them.

    Thanks

    David


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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger
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    WD40 where exactly??? Handbrake arms? Pistons?
    Is there a lip on the disc rotor, preventing the pads from being removed?
    You may need to push them back a bit further.
    If the pads are/were old stock items, don't forget that they may contain asbestos.

  8. #8
    Tadpole dherrick's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    WD40 was put around the pistons on the basis that was were it was sticking.

    There is no noticeable lip on the rotor.


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  9. #9
    1000+ Posts daffyduck's Avatar
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    Time to break out the pliers.
    Grab the pad. Wiggle it extensively. It will come out.

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